Filling in motor mounts

I prepped the mount last night and then fill the large openings just enough to close them off. I also did the large groove at the top by pushing the tip of the applicator in and filling it about half of it's thickness. I let it cure overnight in front of a small heater and it had set up thoroughly by morning. I did another app a couple hours ago and filled the two large voids completely as well as finishing off the top groove. I figure by tonight I should be able to fill it the rest of the way and let it cure tonight and all day tomorrow. I hope to re-install it tomorrow night and take it for a drive.

One thing I noticed right away is that the center flexes a lot if you rotate the piece that attaches to the motor. It has very small attachment points to either side of the inside of the mount and was easy to twist. I say was because after filling that top groove/open area with window weld and letting it cure overnight, I had a MUCH harder time twisting the center part of the mount. I'll keep you all posted and maybe see if I can get a picture of the finished product up when it's done.
 
shumax said:


Mine set up hard but will give a bit if you insert a screw driver in there. Pushing it with your thumbs won't do a thing.

Thanks,
Curt B. Shumaker


Oooh, I'm liking this. Three questions, how long did it take to cure hard? What is the products full name? And where can I get it?

Thanks
Carlos
 
So far I've notice that the windo weld has had subtle, but noticeable effects on my everyday driving. It seems to have almost dried on the inside, and the biggest difference I have noticed was that transitions between light on and light off throttle changes is almost completely transparent. The engine almost doesnt move in that situation, so it makes for smoother daily driving, like at highway speeds with moderate traffic where you could be on and off the throttle lightly. Before, I found it hard to modulate the throttle in these situations without feeling that pause while slightly changing throttle positions as the engine moves to to the other extreme in its mounts. Now, its like butter.

Generally speaking, it is now easier to modulate the throttle smoothly in all situations. It is easier to avoid the bucking at bumper to bumber crawling speeds without riding the clutch, but it is nowhere near to solving that problem altogether (I think this car has poor fuel mapping right off of idle, which will really make it impossible to avoid it altogether anyway).

I cant really do large throttle changes without the engine bucking like usual.

Now that I have heard that Shumax used some stuff that dries hard, I may pull out the mount again, pick out the windo weld, and try that. If I feel like pressing my luck. I suppose I can wait a while and see.
 
The final application is in on mine. If anyone else is going to do this, I'd highly recommend filling that upper gap with as much stuff as you can get in there. It's a long narrow slot that goes across the upper 1/3 of the mount but it's the part that flexes the most. I'm going to leave it drying in front of the heater until Wednsday evening. I'm sure it will be dry tomorrow night but I want it to be COMPLETELY hardened before I put torque on it. I'm planning on putting it back on the car Wednsday night. I'll update everyone then.

Our cars are lean off idle. no getting around it. It would be really nice to put a stand alone computer in and tune for a throttle tip in enrichment. Maybe in the future after warranty is gone on mine...
 
Traveler said:
The final application is in on mine. If anyone else is going to do this, I'd highly recommend filling that upper gap with as much stuff as you can get in there. It's a long narrow slot that goes across the upper 1/3 of the mount but it's the part that flexes the most. ...

Let me know if the windo weld seperates on yours when you put the engine's weight back on the mount. Mine did. The problem is that the narrow slot is much smaller when the engines weight is not on it.

With the engines weight on the mount, the upper gap becomes much bigger, it could almost stand another shot of windo weld while installed in the car.
 
I checked it out tonight, and it's set up but I'm going to leave it until tomorrow to install it to make sure it's completely done. I'll see if it seperates up top. I don't think it will since I'm letting it cure more and I really stuffed that upper gap and let it cure before I finished the mount. I'll tell you all what I think tomorrow night.
 
Okay, it's in. It didn't seperate when I put weight on it so letting it cure in front of a heater may make a difference. First thing I noticed pulling out of the driveway is that the normal drivetrain flex you feel with stock mounts isn't noticeable anymore. Normally when you let the clutch out and get on the gas you can feel the motor move around some. That was just about non-existent. Also, throttle on, throttle off, throttle back on transition is MUCH improved. You don't get that stretch and release a rubber band feeling anymore. It feels like the motor is planted now.

Had to stop the car and launch it a couple times to check wheel hop. It's MUCH reduced from before I did the mount. It used to wheel hop the passenger side wheel on a hard launch and now it leaves with both wheels chirping and very little hop. MUCH smoother to drive and it feels less like a one wheel drive car on a launch and more like it's trying to actually move. Not bad for $15 for the tube plus tax. I'd have to give this cheap way around getting the Mazdaspeed part a big thumbs up! I have no idea how long it will last so now I'll have to drive it a bit and see if it holds up.
 
So how's the mount doing now? I'm thinking of doing the same thing... I have the front AWR mount in, but not the rear (too hard to install)

How much is the Mazdaspeed engine mount? And can we buy it?
 
So far, so good. It's holding up fine but I've only put about 500 miles on it. The Mazdaspeed mount is available. Look for a post about the install with the search as the part number is in there. It was around $140 list if I remember right but you can get it from Mazdamotorsports for around $100.
 
Thanks.
Has anyone else done this engine mount mode? Or installed the MS mount? If so, can you share your experiences?
 
GXL said:
So how's the mount doing now? I'm thinking of doing the same thing... I have the front AWR mount in, but not the rear (too hard to install)

How much is the Mazdaspeed engine mount? And can we buy it?

Mine has held up well too. Probably about the same mileage as traveler. The only thing that I experienced is that the windoweld seperated from the thinner top gap of the mount. Do what Traveler said and stuff the crap out of that top gap. I'll probably try and fill it with the mount on the car since it seems pretty accessible.

Oh, by the way, my previous thoughts on the windo weld being too soft are changing. It has become quite a bit stiffer over the weeks. Still seems a bit softer than the rubber of the mount, but not by much.

Still I wouldn't mind using some hard urethane to fill the gaps if I knew where to find the stuff. Shumax was one that filled some mounts with the harder urethane, but I haven't heard back from him on where he got it.
 
Traveler said:
I have no idea how long it will last so now I'll have to drive it a bit and see if it holds up.
I forgot to mention that when you put it in get some large metal discs or huge washers to help hold it in better...you will sandwich them between the chassis mount and the rubber motor mount section

most insert kits contain these to prevent the mount from slipping out over time...if someone can post some pics of motor mount kits it will show the huge washer thingy
 
Well, I did mine #3 mount(the side one) a couple months ago. Didn't do much, and then it loosened up. It felt like it was stock again. I bought the AWR mounts on a group buy, and installed the front one. It made a huge difference, but still needs the rear mount to get rid of ALL the slop.
 
Back