Thanks for your reply Linux.
240 WHP at 11 PSI with the stock injectors, and the Haltech F10 fuel contoller."
Cool. I don't doubt that he got there using a Haltech standalone, we use that in our 500HP Rally car. awsome device, but pretty advanced for the novice tuner. ?
"The AFC from Apex'i will not work on our cars due to the OBDII tricks our ECU employs."
BUMMER, your missing out. Strange 2G DSM are OBDII and we can use it! What OBDII tricks are you refering to, really I don't see why the APEXI AFC can't be used by you guys. I know several people with Miatas that use it ???
About larger injectors. I know you can up Fuel preassure and trick some more flow out of smaller injectors. Of course I"m an advocate of capacity. SO you install say a 440 or 550cc injector so as not go lean under boost of course

. Know since the ECU is turning those on at the same rate as the little stock ones, but have ALOT more fuel flowing out of those 550's, DSM'er simply use the AFC or a MAF translator to intercept the AIr signal and tell it theres less air than is actually there so it triggers the injectors less often there for having close to stock mixture but all sorts of flow on tap when you go WOT. whew. SO What do you use to control your Injectors?
FYI. I have a POCKET LOGGER from digital tuning
www.digitaltuning.com that is used w/a Palm 100. I plugged it in to the diagnostic port on my bros P5, set the byte timing and BAM BAM! DATA, (only 5 samples per second but it connected) we were able to look at all sorts of engine conditions. INTAKE TEMP, TIMING, O2, O2trims, RPM, SPEED. etc. and datalog it. I can't tell you how valuble this tool will can be when tuning a boosted car.
"active boost retard, and knock retard".
uhhh. so which is it.. I think you mean TIMING retard under boosted condition to Prevent Knock" ? Strange again. I tune for the highest timing Advance Posible (usually 18-20 degress @ 7100 RPM and If I see that my timing is being RETARDED I know I'm knocking or some other engine condition is effecting my tune, and need to add fuel somewhere. Do you guys have to REtARD your timing when boosting because you have a higher compression motor? I'm unclear on that...
What do you guys look for? Can someone give me an idea of an optimal engine condition under boost for a p5. Like what o2, what timing advance range, @ what AIr FLow rate/ (NOT PSI) <<
FI. My car is happy and fast with .92 O2's, 18-20 Deg Advance @ 26 lbs/Min Flow (happens to be14psi) @7100PRM If I see like 12DEG/ .88 o2's @ that lb/min I know i'm lean/knocking and the ECU has pulled timing out (causing a SPIKE in EGT) and have to back out of it and tune it some more fuel. I say that because different turbos push more/less air @ a given PSI. You guys seem to be running some massive flowing turbos @ low PSI's. Some of the T4's I'm seeing can FLow 550 CFM @ 14 lbs. OVerkill if your car can only handle say 300 CFM> follow me? However they are effecient and blow cooler air @ lower psi's. Lets you get away w/o intercooling I guess?
"I won't go higher until I can get some more precise engine management."
For real, recon i'm spoiled.. Theres no substitute for good Data accuisition and engine monitoring.
"Some members have either learned to live with the stalling, or have adjusted their BOV's to the point where stalling is minimum. The location of the BOV also downplays this too."
http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=24962&password=&sort=1&thecat=500
Notice my Air meter (3" GM MAF, the little black box controls it) it is AFTER the BOV"S and upstream of the Turbo in a BLOW THRU set up. ( I know Pretty TRICK Aint it

) This allows me to VENT the BOV's to ATmosphere! SO I don't hace drivability issues venting. If you have the Meter placed before the Turbo just find a way to plumb the bypass air back ANYWHERE in the inlet! I know this can be difficult with some BOV models. and doesn't sound as cool but at least you wont be belching icky RICH spew in between shifts.