Exhaust Cutout? Good idea?

i was bored so i was thinkin of doing the cig lighter as the ground and my radio fuse for the 12v source, is this possible?
 
How quickly does this open? Can you simulate the effect the ATP gives (only opening under positive boost) with an electric cut-out and MSD RPM activated solenoids?
 
you could if you just opened it right as you were boosting or right when you hit a certain RPM. Mine takes about one second to open completely. I didn't get a RPM or boost actuated one because I wanted to be able to open it whenever, or leave it closed whenever. If you have the actuated ones you can't really play around with it as much. It is fun to just open it up at low RPMs because you hear the turbo just spinning and it gets some looks.
niky said:
How quickly does this open? Can you simulate the effect the ATP gives (only opening under positive boost) with an electric cut-out and MSD RPM activated solenoids?
 
Velocifero said:
you could if you just opened it right as you were boosting or right when you hit a certain RPM. Mine takes about one second to open completely. I didn't get a RPM or boost actuated one because I wanted to be able to open it whenever, or leave it closed whenever. If you have the actuated ones you can't really play around with it as much. It is fun to just open it up at low RPMs because you hear the turbo just spinning and it gets some looks.

Darn... I was hoping to use it for an NA app, but putting it far up the pipe requires that it can be set to open at a certain rpm. Oh, well.. guess right before the muffler is my limit.
 
505zoom said:
Uhm, what?

NA = no-turbo. Was hoping to place it after the midpipe and before the stock muffler and use an MSD Window switch to keep it closed below 4000 rpm. If it takes one or two seconds to open instead of a tenth of a second, it'll be too slow to respond. And if I leave it open all the time, no turbo = no torque at low rpms to make up for the lack of back pressure = teh suck.

My only other choice is to have it at the muffler, but if it's there, I can just use a screw-on cap. :)

I've got 90% of the bolt-ons I can do to the FS already, it's just that I need the stock muffler in place as my baby can't sleep in the back if I've got a big old fart can back there.

Oh well, go on with the turbo discussion... (peep)
 
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i have a 3 inch downpipe and dont really want to weld into that. would i still benefit from a cutout after my downpipe
 
I have the CDA-9855 and im using the power for my cutout to tap into the radio wire, does anybody know what color it is and to get to that wire?
 
damn battery died, so it is charging. If you peel down teh carpeting on the passenger side you will see a large shint metal shield covering. This is covering your ECU. If you look to the top left or bottom left there are bolts connecting the shield to the chasis. You can ground on either of those bolts.
Another option would just be to use the radios ground. Black wire off the radio, I believe for your 12V source off the radio the wire is yellow or red, anybody else know which one would be better? I think the yellow is your Constant 12V memory wire and the red is switched, but I might be wrong, don't really remember because I always use a volt meter to check my wires when installing radios and that was awhile ago that I did mine.
 
aww man that sucks, i believe its the red wire, i was doin some search to see which wire to use, but how do I get to that radio wire?
 
Myspeed12 said:
aww man that sucks, i believe its the red wire, i was doin some search to see which wire to use, but how do I get to that radio wire?
have you ever pulled a head unit out before? easiest way for me to do it is remove the small suround plastice from the radio and then if you have the keys to the head unit use those or if not you can use two butter knives, they insert down the sides of the radio and then you pull the whole thing out. pull it most of the way out, disconnect the wiring harness, antenae, rca connections and set the radio to the side while you work on the other wiring. pass the wires for the cutout through teh back behind the steering column reach through the radio hole and grab your wires pull them up and splice to appropriate wires. reconnect all the wires to the back of radio and slide radio back in, you might have to push it once it is mostly in to get it to lock back into its postion. replace the plastic trim. by plastic trim I am not referring to the cars plastice dash trim, i mean the small little ring of plastic surrounding just the radio, it should be the same color and texture as teh radio.
 
ok perfect now i have a great idea of how to do this and alot of resources to make it right, do you know what size gauge are the stock wires so I can buy and extension for them?
 
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