engine swap time/ but need help removing blown motor!!!

Protege-Fiend

Member
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2002 2.0L white Mazda Protege
so as many of you have read i have a horrible rod knock but im just saying it and i bought a used 2.0l with 83k on it for $350 its a steal lol but im a nub so i need some help well correction i need a lot of help i dont have enough money to take it to a shop and have them tear my old motor out and drop the newish one in i was wondering if any one on this site ever posted a motor removal or any thing like that, pretty much i need as much help as i can get from all of you forum users out there. So in short just need some one to talk me through pulling my old motor out and im pretty sure dropping the same exact motor in is just the reversal of u pulling it!!!!so the more input the merrier lol(uhm)
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step 1, remove front tires
step 2, remove centre nut, disconnect swaybar endlinks, disconnect ball joint, pull spindle out to free axles(do this for both front wheels)
step 3, go through engine bay, disconnecting all electricals and freeing up harness
step 4, unbolt front and rear engine mount from engine
step 5, go under car and unbolt the beam/member to which the mounts were attached

anyone wanna take it from here?
 
lol little more to it than that. the way i took i found to be quite easy and a relaxing pace. i started with the valve cover, then intake manifold, then timing components, then exhaust headers, coolant housings on head, cam gears, cams, then head. doing this allows easy access to the rear mount and you dont bang your hands up since you work your way down. then pull everything connected to block such as the thermostat crank position sensor, battery tray etc... basically strip it down. this makes it much easier. then pull the block and transmission together. took me about 12-15 hours by myself which isnt to bad working over course of 3 days not rushing. its actually quite simple.
 
To clarify, is it best to drop (lower) the engine with the car elevated or remove it from the top with a hoist?

F/U question- easier to pull with the transaxle attached?

thks
 
I had no problems at all using a hoist with the trans attached. Just make sure you take the cv axles off
 
I pull mine out from the top every time. Pretty easy and easier to remove the trans with the engine, and switch it out once you get it on the stand.
 
Here is what the manual states:


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine coolant. (See 01122 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE WARNINGS.) (See 01123 ENGINE
COOLANT REPLACEMENT.)
3. Remove the radiator. (See 01124 RADIATOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
4. Remove the air cleaner.
5. Remove the accelerator cable. (See 0113B17 ACCELERATOR CABLE INSPECTION [FS].) (See 0113B
17 ACCELERATOR CABLE ADJUSTMENT [FS].)
6. Disconnect the fuel hose. (See 01144 BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE.) (See 01145 AFTER REPAIR
PROCEDURE.)
7. Remove the front pipe. (See 01151 EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
8. Remove the rods, cables and pipes related to the transaxle.
9. Remove the battery.
10. Remove the fuse box.
11. Remove the P/S oil pump with the oil hose still connected. Position the P/S oil pump so that it is out of the way.
12. Remove the A/C compressor with the pipe still connected. position the A/C compressor so that it is out of the
way.
13. Remove the drive shaft. (See 03139 DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
14. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
15. Install in the reverse order of removal.
 
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