Engine Break-in Period

I think you're only asking for trouble later on by not having the dealership change the oil. IMO
 
I think you're only asking for trouble later on by not having the dealership change the oil. IMO

Not true and no trouble, as long as proper documentation/receipts are kept for correct oil and actual oil change. No laws or contractual agreements with Mazda require that the dealership perform recommended maintenance to keep warranty in effect.

Personally I am using the dealership service department for convenience.
 
I understand, but i'd avoid anything that would give the dealership leverage to use against you.
 
I understand, but i'd avoid anything that would give the dealership leverage to use against you.

Agreed, best to keep your documentation in good order regardless. That can be accomplished without regular visits to dealership service department by competent/knowledgeable owners.
 
Agreed, best to keep your documentation in good order regardless. That can be accomplished without regular visits to dealership service department by competent/knowledgeable owners.

15+ years so far in the vehicle repair businesss..so I
'd say I'm competent and knowledgeable ..lol

Jeff
 
Gio why not dealership? They give loaners... :)

Loaner for an oil change? :D damn how long do they take over there lol naah no thanks growing up with my late dad who was a mechanic for 40+ years I picked up these minor maintenance stuff and would rather do it myself knowing I took the time to do it right. All my cars are very well maintained. Also my bro worked at a dealership in Staten Island for many years as well and did not recommend going to the dealer for any minor maintenance stuff. It's all good Oil $30, filter $5 and I'm good to go...like I said if I don't have the time or patience I'll take it to my small mechanic shop he does it for $15 when you have your own oil and filter, I bring it in 15-20 minutes later I'm out.
 
Regarding dealership service (for oil change) make an appointment, expect them to have your car for about 1 hour. Had mine done at local Mazda dealership in August, took an hour in early morning. No loaner.
 
That's why I'll be taking 101 home rather than 5. Makes it easier to abide by those recommendations.

Ended up taking 99 as 101 would have taken too long. 10 hours and 565 miles later @34.2 mpg on the trip computer, verified by actual calculation at the pump. Ang get this; the trip computer actually read slightly LESS than actual mileage!
 
Could any one assist with my question in regards to break in period?
1) after how many miles or kilometer, did you notice (if any) increase in gas mileage or general peppier feel of your new cx5?
2) Owner's manual states to drive gently for the first 600 miles or 1000 km. Would it be safe to go on road trip (extended high way driving) after this period?
If you can share your experience and thoughts will be appreciated.
 
Just drive it...

As was said the only precaution that you should do is change the first oil out soon after you clear 1500km to 3000km
 
The following is an article written by a very well respected and knowledgeable mechanic/engineer/journalist on engine break-in. (most journalists don't know squat about the mechanics, this one is an engineer first). This article is targeted towards motorcycle engines, however it applies to cars as well, inside or outside of racing.

Although there is quite a bit of talk about how engine break-in is different these days, and there are some differences that have to be accounted for (article mentions them), remember that these are still the same old internal combustion engines that we've always had.

There was a guy who mentioned earlier about taking his CX-5 on a big trip hauling some gear and the performance improving - that was you completing your break-in with some load, (you probably don't have to keep going for another run to improve it more).

There's also been some mention of some 'magical' additives to the oil. I'd love to see some hard data and information on exactly what that is and exactly what it does. No derision here, if you have this information please share. To me, it sounded something like someone trying to pass off synthetic oil as the oil used for breaking in an engine.

http://www.dezmo.com/breakin.html

This is how i've been following my engine break-in so far, lots of firm part-throttle (gas) operation at different speeds alternated with no-load coasting on an ascending scale of rev's. I'm about 2/3's partway through the break in.

I believe one of the things to take away from this is that i'm sure engine building procedures have improved over the years and you are seeing some fine honing of the inside combustion surfaces. But at the end of the day, you still need to mate these surfaces with each other without glazing the rings and getting a good seal.

the owners manual states you don't have to do anything 'different'. I believe that statement was a diluted statement as they didn't want to neccesarily take ownership over providing specific or complicated instructions. It's a close fit, but there are some other details that have been left out. Please take from this what you will.
 
Last edited:
There's also been some mention of some 'magical' additives to the oil. I'd love to see some hard data and information on exactly what that is and exactly what it does. No derision here, if you have this information please share. To me, it sounded something like someone trying to pass off synthetic oil as the oil used for breaking in an engine.
.

From an earlier post on oil:After listening to Lake Speed Jr (what a name!) on Adam Carolla's Car Cast podcast, I'm going to stick with mazda or castrol, since it was designed for these oils.

Lake Speed is certified lubrication specialist and oil monitoring analyst. He's also head of technical support a Joe Gibs Racing Oil. If you want to learn a little about oil, listen to the podcast. Here's a link, just click on the audio player.

http://podbay.fm/show/323983193/e/1342260000?autostart=1
 
Last edited:
My daughter picked her new Sport edition up today. It was a dlr transfer which put about 350 miles on ODO w/interstate driving. I'm sure the person doing the transfer was at a steady speed for most of the drive, which is exactly what the manual says not to do. I sure hope for her sake it doesn't do any harm!. She can run the remaining 250 changing the speed up & down, per the manual. This will be an 8-10yr car for her so we want it to be perfect! Do you think it did much harm?

Thanks
 
My daughter picked her new Sport edition up today. It was a dlr transfer which put about 350 miles on ODO w/interstate driving. I'm sure the person doing the transfer was at a steady speed for most of the drive, which is exactly what the manual says not to do. I sure hope for her sake it doesn't do any harm!. She can run the remaining 250 changing the speed up & down, per the manual. This will be an 8-10yr car for her so we want it to be perfect! Do you think it did much harm?

Thanks

Since you live in SE TN I am thinking that you have at least rolling hills and maybe big hills - this varies the load quite a bit on the engine. An easy assumption is the transfer agent put it in D and set the cruise. Doing this my CX-5 will downshift changing the engine revs going up rolling hills to maintain speed, will shift up at top of hill and downshift for engine braking going down the hill to keep the mph constant, then go back to high gear. This will help as the engine speed and load is varied even though the car speed stays almost constant. You can verify this by watching the tack. The car should be fine.

Since my car has been broken in, I often use manual under cruise which widens the shift prameters and the car will not shift down unless the hill is steep and I have not seen it shift down for engine braking at all - this I think gives me better mileage but does allow the speed to vary more.
 
My daughter picked her new Sport edition up today. It was a dlr transfer which put about 350 miles on ODO w/interstate driving. I'm sure the person doing the transfer was at a steady speed for most of the drive, which is exactly what the manual says not to do. I sure hope for her sake it doesn't do any harm!. She can run the remaining 250 changing the speed up & down, per the manual. This will be an 8-10yr car for her so we want it to be perfect! Do you think it did much harm?

Thanks

As was said... The parts on modern cars are made by robots in a sealed environment, not like a ford plant in the 60s where everyone was drunk.

The tooling has become much more constant, so the tolerances are better from the start.

Not A Single Person needs to worry about possible damage during a break i period, It is next to impossible to break the car by driving it unless you slip the car into N and Rev it off the limiter...

There are thousands of engine builders who have tested and documented this fact.

Besides, statistically, the car will be in an accident before it goes over 100 thousand miles, so you will get a new one.
 
As was said... The parts on modern cars are made by robots in a sealed environment, not like a ford plant in the 60s where everyone was drunk.

The tooling has become much more constant, so the tolerances are better from the start.

Not A Single Person needs to worry about possible damage during a break i period, It is next to impossible to break the car by driving it unless you slip the car into N and Rev it off the limiter...

There are thousands of engine builders who have tested and documented this fact.

Besides, statistically, the car will be in an accident before it goes over 100 thousand miles, so you will get a new one.

don't know if i agree with any of these assertions. automated engine assembly and more importantly, parts manufacturing has been around for a long long time.

it;s not like they've had to spin chunks of billet on a lathe by hand to make a piston.

you still have to achieve a good mating surface and piston ring seal during engine break-in, and that can't be achieved without good ol fashioned mileage. And if you want proof, do the first oil change yourself and see how much aluminum gets scraped off. I've had the pleasure to break in more than a handful of engines - you'd be shocked. (sifting through the first oil change for aluminum particles is always fun)

yes, sure, production quality and lubricants have come up, but you still have to apply proper break-in procedures.

to the fellow who picked up that car with 350 miles on the odo, well you\re still probably fine as modern engines are pretty resilient. Its not ideal if that was all highway yes, due to lack of wash time, heres hoping the rings aren't glazed. you'd be screwed if king ding a ling boy racer was charged with delivering that car.

You will know engine break-in was compromised if you are getting consistently lower fuel mileage.
 
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back