Dirty oil

tweety2300

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2001 mazda protege mp3
I know my car was neglected by the previous owner but my oil is usually dark brown within 1500 miles of an oil change but not black. At around 3500 miles when I check it I can see little clumps of what appears to be dirt. Is there a way to "clean" everything so that this doesn't happen anymore. After 4000 miles it will start burning it pretty quickly. Especially if I'm hard on it

I run10-40 penzoil conventional ( synthetic burns faster)
 
I know my car was neglected by the previous owner but my oil is usually dark brown within 1500 miles of an oil change but not black. At around 3500 miles when I check it I can see little clumps of what appears to be dirt. Is there a way to "clean" everything so that this doesn't happen anymore. After 4000 miles it will start burning it pretty quickly. Especially if I'm hard on it

I run10-40 penzoil conventional ( synthetic burns faster)

if you are getting visible crap in your oil at 3500 miles, change it at 3000 miles. you might consider trying a better quality filter, too.
 
Try the K&N filters. With the nut on the end. I use them and 5w-30 castrol full synthetic. Awesome running motor with no problems at all
 
I try to change it as much as I can usually around 4-5k but working 7 days a week plus my fiance usually drives it, it can be a bit hard to know when it needs changed and I refuse to take it to a shop because last time I did they didn't change the filter and only put 3 qts of oil in it.

I'm kinda hesitant about putting seafoam in my oil as its as thin as water and I already have bad valve seals and I don't want it to hurt anything else

But basicly change it as much as possible is the only solution? What is the actual best filter for our cars? I know I run amsol for my Honda which are garunteed for 25,000 miles but I haven't been able to find it for the mazda
 
When I replaced my motoer, my oil was black. It is now getting better.

Question is, why is T's oil getting WORSE?, unless his fiance is pouring dirt in the oil. Do disrespect, just joking!
 
I think "clumps" can be caused by anti-freeze getting into your oil. I would think most clump would be in the pan, you could drop the pan and thoroughly clean it. Do you see any oil in the coolant?
 
No coolant in oil/ oil in coolant. And radiator preassure test showed everything being fine a few months ago as I had thought it had a blown head gasket due to condensation in the dipstick tube.

I think ima try putting some sea foam in it some day this week before I change it depending on how much I work this weekend
 
But basicly change it as much as possible is the only solution? What is the actual best filter for our cars? I know I run amsol for my Honda which are garunteed for 25,000 miles but I haven't been able to find it for the mazda

Yes, oil contains detergents which degrade over time. It sounds like you have a bit of sludge left by the PO's poor maintenance so changing your oil more frequently should help to slowly break it down.

Have you ever tried Pennzoil high mileage? My brother's toyota burns oil too and it seemed to make an improvement.
 
wait why are you using such a heavy weighted oil? 5w30 i think should be the typical no? 10 40 just seems a little, i dont know too much.

to me at least
 
To keep lifters quite and to keep it from burning as much 10-40 isn't bad a lot more people run it it 4 cylinders than you would think. Winter in va isn't all that cold it rarely gets below 20.

Eventually it's gona get torn down and rebuilt but it will be awhile before that happens
 
well idk what 20F is, if it didnt get lower than 20c here id be balls to the wall happy. regardless. hopefully you figure out whats going on, id say rip the pan off so a full clean and a flush, and if youre rebuilding, ouhhh acid bath or whatever


meanwhile in canada, im attempting to figure out why my brake light is still on. and other dumb cels. again
 
Those clumps are usually bits of carbon coming off the inside of the motor. I'd avoid that if you can, altho the filter should get all of it as it is pumped [full-flow filter]. The only way to get it all, would require a full strip-down.

JJ
 

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