Direct Power System (DPS)

Latest issue of Import Tuner has one they installed on a Nissan 350z.
They paid $319, dyno gains were found to be 0 hp and 0 ft/lb of torque.

They weakly suggested that it might not work on some cars, so feel free to move it around the fleet until you find something it works on. Huh?

Hard to admit being taken when you spend $300 on a fuse.
Guess they didn't want to take it apart to see why it was broken.
 
mp5jeff said:
yea, if it "works" so well mazda3ofkent, take one apart and let us know what you find =)
It seemed to work on an MR2, but not on a Z it just like hypergrounds sometimes they work great and sometimes they dont do a thing
 
if it is just wires hooked up to a fuse, it won't do anything(to any kind of car), might as well just buy some 5 dollar ground wires and ground the engine/battery better...
 
yea, true, i guess that's why they do post dynos, cause some people will believe them, or do not know much about dynos and how they will differentiate in numbers each run...few hp is not a good way to show a gain of a mod...imo.
 
something of what flat_black was saying reminded me oif a senior project a student was doing at my school for his engineering degree.
looking at the graph of power output vs rpm he found many areas where the alternator simple wasn't outputing power and was in fact creating a greater load on the engine from magnetic mojo or something
so he was working on a system which would counter the effect

i don't know how this thing works but i thought i'd add this
 
mp5jeff said:
if it is just wires hooked up to a fuse, it won't do anything(to any kind of car), might as well just buy some 5 dollar ground wires and ground the engine/battery better...
the point is it has done something for some cars
 
flat_black said:
Those power gains are small enough to imply that it could be standard variation. Not really conclusive. For that matter, dyno's are quite... Adjustable... If you catch my meaning. A capacitance 'reservior' would decrease the amount of time that the alternator would be charging, therefor reducing parasitic loss... But if you read up on the system, it just plain doesn't make any sense. These type of products have been around for a while, and really, most don't do much of anything, except for increase electrical efficiency, and some won't even do that.

A cap won't reduce the amount of time the alternator spends charging, but it would temporarily help out during surge currents. So, if you turned on your 3,000 watt stereo system and started jamming SpeakerBOXX during the Dyno run, then Yes, you might see a benefit. (band2)
 
because you retard... they both dont cross at 5250 because they tested 2 different boxes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (direct) if you read the writing on the side the #3 test shows the result of the TT box which is the type tourqe box!!!!!
#1&2 show the results for the MPWR box. thats why!! so read the whole thing before you start blabberin on! READ THE WHOLE ARTICLE The box works deal with it
 
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Take a valium Branden. Calm down and enough with the name-calling.
 
Branden3i said:
because you retard... they both dont cross at 5250 because they tested 2 different boxes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (direct) if you read the writing on the side the #3 test shows the result of the TT box which is the type tourqe box!!!!!
#1&2 show the results for the MPWR box. thats why!! so read the whole thing before you start blabberin on! READ THE WHOLE ARTICLE The box works deal with it
uhh all dynos are supposed to cross at 5250, its called physics...testing two different "boxes(with wires attached to a fuse it seems)" should not change that. by what you just said, proves to me you know nothing about what you are talking about though, so thanks.
 
Pheonix said:
something of what flat_black was saying reminded me oif a senior project a student was doing at my school for his engineering degree.
looking at the graph of power output vs rpm he found many areas where the alternator simple wasn't outputing power and was in fact creating a greater load on the engine from magnetic mojo or something
so he was working on a system which would counter the effect

i don't know how this thing works but i thought i'd add this


Well while your alternator is charging the battery, it is putting a greater parasitic load on the engine. The sensible thing to do would be to program the ECU to disable battery charging while the engine is under WOT or heavy acceleration. This would give a perceived power boost. Set it where the battery is not charged during normal operation until it gets down to around 11.5 volts. Then start charging the battery more aggresively.

I personally don't understand why we haven't seen a push to power the engine accesories (power steering, water pump, A/C, EGR stuff....) by small DC motor? A small 5 HP DC motor made out of rare-earth magnets would provide plent of torque for running all of your accessories at a constant speed, leaving all engine HP available for the drivetrain....
 
Branden3i said:
so why is it physics that all dynos cross at 5250??? Explain to me that
Actually it's not physics. It's mathematics...

Horsepower is a calculated number based on torque. The forumla is (Torque X RPM's)/5252... The horsepower and torque values should ALWAYS cross at 5252 rpm's because that is how it is calculated.... If their dyno chart doesn't show that then something is fudged. I'll take a long shot and guess that they fudged their dyno numbers..... If you change the forumla values, you change the result.... If they decided to divide by 4200rpms instead, voila, more horepower...

-edit-
I just looked at the dyno charts. The first one appears to cross right at 5000 rpms, the second about 4750. This would account for claims in increased HP. I doubt there are any real gains, just a marketing gimmick. Whoever bought it got hosed. Bow your head in shame or go by a Tornado fuel saver....
 
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