Delsing Klunk Fix Brackets!
- Thread starter Micaspeed!
- Start date
Micaspeed!
Member
3 sets remaining!
Hey!
All is well here, we have three sets of brackets remaining of the first run of actually 11 sets. They are going fast. Orders are shipping tomorrow.
As an earlier post says, e-mail for ordering details. Thanks for all the support.
Godspeed!
Dave
Hey!
All is well here, we have three sets of brackets remaining of the first run of actually 11 sets. They are going fast. Orders are shipping tomorrow.
As an earlier post says, e-mail for ordering details. Thanks for all the support.
Godspeed!
Dave
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Dave,
I have sent three emails and I haven't heard back, please I am desperate to order a set.
Thanks!
-Jared
I have sent three emails and I haven't heard back, please I am desperate to order a set.
Thanks!
-Jared
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
I realize that, but I sent him an email the same day he first posted ordering instructions and 2 subsequent ones and hadn't heard back so I am just wondering if they got lost along the way somewhere... shrugRyoga28 said:
7
70
Cool, good to see these available.
To answer a previous question regarding the AWR bar. I have no "clunk" has the problem exsisted with the stock bar. I do have some noise every now and again becuase of the way the end-links sit in the adjustable bracket for the bar.
To answer a previous question regarding the AWR bar. I have no "clunk" has the problem exsisted with the stock bar. I do have some noise every now and again becuase of the way the end-links sit in the adjustable bracket for the bar.
Ping checking in... what I said above I stand by. The bushings are relocated with this bracket to the outside of the swaybar (near the bend) to give a "cleaner" pivot point to the bar (refer to the original "klunk" threads for an explanation, or think of holding a pen with the pocket clip bent out - if you hold the pen in the middle and try to rotate the pen using the pocket clip, it will both rotate and "bend" (pivot in the middle). If you hold the pen at the base of the pocket clip the pen will just rotate. That's what the bushing relocation does - move the bushings closer to the pivot point.
This fixes the "clunk" two ways: 1) New bushings that aren't ovalled out, and 2) no "bend" in the bar as it goes through the bushings, just rotation, which keeps 'em from wearing out again (or "as fast"). Nice thing is that the bushings are replacable with off-the-shelf parts for cheap and fast - a good combination.
I've had mine on almost a year and they're fine, mine were prototypes and didn't have the fancy plating or anything, just black and naked aluminum with cad-plated Energy Suspension zerked urethane bushings. I've greased 'em twice, once at 7k and again after a lo-ong wet drive as a preventative measure. No clunk yet, and they do give a noticably "better" performance - where there used to be a small "hitch" as one bent the car into a long tight sweeper, it's now a smooth transition to take a "set". The rear is a little stiffer but not obnoxiously so, and yes you definitely can lift a wheel on driveway aprons or autoX turns.
Auto X. Hmmm. Unless you have a non-observant inspector these are definitely not stock. Sorry. Dave races and can add detail or check his website or previous posts.
Hope this helps, here are a few pictures of mine. Yes, those are 03.5 wheels. No I don't have any more and am not selling mine. If you want the whole car, bring money and maybe we'll talk.
Note that some pics show a red non-zerked bushing, this was an original test piece and didn't work b/c it was ribbed inside, non-lubed, and squeaked like a mouse despite grease. The black and red zerked bushings worked about the same, the one I have the mileage on is the black. They're like $14 a set at Summit, JC Whitney, or your local speed shop - just get the right size as a 19mm is wa-ay too small (squee-eek).
Oh - lubing - you can give each zerk a shot of grease fron outside the car without jacking up, without lying down, and your pants can remain clean if you don't kneel.
This fixes the "clunk" two ways: 1) New bushings that aren't ovalled out, and 2) no "bend" in the bar as it goes through the bushings, just rotation, which keeps 'em from wearing out again (or "as fast"). Nice thing is that the bushings are replacable with off-the-shelf parts for cheap and fast - a good combination.
I've had mine on almost a year and they're fine, mine were prototypes and didn't have the fancy plating or anything, just black and naked aluminum with cad-plated Energy Suspension zerked urethane bushings. I've greased 'em twice, once at 7k and again after a lo-ong wet drive as a preventative measure. No clunk yet, and they do give a noticably "better" performance - where there used to be a small "hitch" as one bent the car into a long tight sweeper, it's now a smooth transition to take a "set". The rear is a little stiffer but not obnoxiously so, and yes you definitely can lift a wheel on driveway aprons or autoX turns.
Auto X. Hmmm. Unless you have a non-observant inspector these are definitely not stock. Sorry. Dave races and can add detail or check his website or previous posts.
Hope this helps, here are a few pictures of mine. Yes, those are 03.5 wheels. No I don't have any more and am not selling mine. If you want the whole car, bring money and maybe we'll talk.
Note that some pics show a red non-zerked bushing, this was an original test piece and didn't work b/c it was ribbed inside, non-lubed, and squeaked like a mouse despite grease. The black and red zerked bushings worked about the same, the one I have the mileage on is the black. They're like $14 a set at Summit, JC Whitney, or your local speed shop - just get the right size as a 19mm is wa-ay too small (squee-eek).
Oh - lubing - you can give each zerk a shot of grease fron outside the car without jacking up, without lying down, and your pants can remain clean if you don't kneel.
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As Ping said, it doesn't even resemble stock. However, I think I remember reading a thread around here that suggested the possibility of installing these and leaving the stock equipment on as well - "augmenting" the factory hardware, which might let you stay "closer" to stock anyway. After seeing the kit, I can see how that would be possible. Of course I'm by no means an expert (or even semi-knowledgeable) on autocrossing, I'm just relaying something I read in here, so you should read up on it to make sure.Macs MSP said:
However, my solid engine mounts, intake, etc. throw me so far off stock anyway that I'm not going to bother playing that game (my E bushings are squeaking like mad).
