2016~2023 Dealer Service Recommendation: Fuel Injector Service?

2018CX9AZ

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2018 CX-9
I have a 2018 Mazda CX-9 with 53,000 miles on it. I take my vehicle to the dealer for the 'free' oil changes every 7,500 miles. Starting back when the vehicle had 23,000 miles on it, the service department has been typing in "Recommend Fuel Injector Service" on every service ticket. Does anyone know what is included in this service, and whether or not it really needs to be done (and if so, at what intervals)?
 
like I said, you only need to change plugs every 30k miles if they're the cheap cheap nickel plated copper plugs... if it's about $2 a plug, then they're the ones you change that often

seems like you missed what I said about this minutes before you
I was responding to Tribe&TrueRacin who said he would not wait longer than 30k miles to replace spark plugs.
I agree with you regarding "cheap" plugs. (Actually, I wouldn't even think of using $2 plugs, but that's another discussion).
 
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Spark plugs (oem stock engine) have the most dramatic effect on an engines performance than any other part .

The type of spark plugs used does not always mean a longer mileage performing at their expected and designed capability.
Most anyone that have experience in Diagnostic testing will and often do show by way of either using a Scan tool to see the wave form of the spark plug or an oscilloscope that almost all spark plugs start a decline in performance output at about 30k miles. No matter the type, brand or composition material used.

Believing the great advertising about spark plug by the manufactures for some is understandable but in the real world if some of you simply calling my information BS then go have your engine tested regarding your spark plug efficiency , keep it to yourself or post honestly what you found out. But please try not to pass on information without any preference to doing any kind of diagnostic testing to support your information!

I said I recommend for BEST and Optimum performance from a part on an engine that most any one can do to change the spark plug at 30k-35K miles.
 
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Fair enough.
But, for 99% of car owners, I doubt they would actually go to the trouble of going through the testing you describe just to see if they need new spark plugs. In the real world, soccer moms are not going to go the route of "Diagnostic testing will and often do show by way of either using a Scan tool to see the wave form of the spark plug or an oscilloscope that almost all spark plugs start a decline in performance output at about 30k miles." Your words.

This is about real world car driving and maintenance. Most people don't have a clue where their spark plugs actually are, much less how to replace them and when. If it starts and runs, they're happy.
I guess it comes down to personal preference. I've had no issues, performance wise or any need for unnecessary repairs on my vehicles because I ran my plugs to 100,000 miles. Either way, it's all good.
 
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I think that this thread was suppose to be about :

Dealer Service Recommendation: Fuel Injector Service?​


But because some don't like my posted information and call it BS here is a little more information to consider?

Ok so the price of spark plugs has to do with their longevity and performance. LOL
WOW!

Spark plugs (oem stock engine) have the most dramatic effect on an engines performance than any other part .

The type of spark plugs used does not always mean a longer mileage performing at their expected and designed capability.
Most anyone that have experience in Diagnostic testing will and often do show by way of either using a Scan tool to see the wave form of the spark plug or an oscilloscope that almost all spark plugs start a decline in performance output at about 30k miles. No matter the type, brand or composition material used.

Believing the great advertising about spark plug by the manufactures for some is understandable but in the real world if some of you simply calling my information BS then go have your engine tested regarding your spark plug efficiency , keep it to yourself or post honestly what you found out. But please try not to pass on information without any preference to doing any kind of diagnostic testing to support your information!

I said I recommend for BEST and Optimum performance from a part on an engine that most any one can do to change the spark plug at 30k-35K miles.

I do not agree because you haven't backed it up with facts at all, just your opinions.. there's no scientific basis behind it

there's no "great advertising" from spark plug manufacturers... they don't set/determine the change intervals, the engine maker does, and it's all firmly based on science

show me a worn/bad stock spark plug at 30k miles, instead of just recommending something with your opinion and not facts
 
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I emailed Redline to make sure their product contains PEA and this is their response:

Steve,
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, yes the SI-1 contains PEA and is absolutely safe for use in both of your Mazda fuel systems.
Regards,
 
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I emailed Redline to make sure their product contains PEA and this is their response:

Steve,
Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, yes the SI-1 contains PEA and is absolutely safe for use in both of your Mazda fuel systems.
Regards,
safe for it, but really waste of money/unnecessary on a GDI engine... as others mentioned here, GDI engines don't have wet intakes nor do the valves ever see any fuel because the fuel is directly injected into the combustion chamber, hence "direct injection"...

while there might be some carbon build up in the combustion chamber, that's kept in control by the EPA mandated gasoline detergents and adding anything more will do minimum cleaning at best.... the concern/cleaning that needs to be done are the valves, none of which pour in gas tank cleaners will do

if you have an older mazda with port injection, by all means use Redline SI-1... it's one of the best out there
 
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safe for it, but really waste of money/unnecessary on a GDI engine... as others mentioned here, GDI engines don't have wet intakes nor do the valves ever see any fuel because the fuel is directly injected into the combustion chamber, hence "direct injection"...

while there might be some carbon build up in the combustion chamber, that's kept in control by the EPA mandated gasoline detergents and adding anything more will do minimum cleaning at best.... the concern/cleaning that needs to be done are the valves, none of which pour in gas tank cleaners will do

if you have an older mazda with port injection, by all means use Redline SI-1... it's one of the best out there
Then I read comments from people with DI engines who say the Redline made a difference. As long as it won't hurt anything I figure the $15 spent won't bother me. I'm curious I guess
 
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Come on guys. We've posted reminders to be civil and respectful with each other many times over the past couple of weeks. It's fine to disagree and move on, but it's not okay to insult each other or be disrespectful in your responses.

This thread will be locked and cleaned up.
 
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Thread cleaned up a bit and unlocked. The thread will be locked permanently and posters dealt with accordingly if such behaviour continues.

If you cannot be respectful, do not post a reply. Thanks for your cooperation.
 
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Is it OK to add the redline fuel system cleaner to a half full tank? I know they usually recommend adding on a near empty tank but I'm getting my oil changed in 2 days and I heard it is best to add the fuel cleaner before an oil change. Not sure if that is true or not?
 
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Is it OK to add the redline fuel system cleaner to a half full tank? I know they usually recommend adding on a near empty tank but I'm getting my oil changed in 2 days and I heard it is best to add the fuel cleaner before an oil change. Not sure if that is true or not?

IMO, I think that's fine. I would do the same thing, with the idea being that anything that gets flushed out of the fuel system by the cleaner will get removed from the engine when the oil is drained during an oil change.
 
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Is it OK to add the redline fuel system cleaner to a half full tank? I know they usually recommend adding on a near empty tank but I'm getting my oil changed in 2 days and I heard it is best to add the fuel cleaner before an oil change. Not sure if that is true or not?
the difference of the oil condition being affected by pour in gas tank cleaners are negligible, however, if you do induction cleaning (suck cleaner through vacuum line into intake), oil can be potentially effected due to cylinder wash down from the cleaning agents

I personally will not add any cleaner into a gas tank that has less than 10 gallons in it, because they're usually designed to be used with at least that much gas, up to 25 gallons
 
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the difference of the oil condition being affected by pour in gas tank cleaners are negligible, however, if you do induction cleaning (suck cleaner through vacuum line into intake), oil can be potentially effected due to cylinder wash down from the cleaning agents

I personally will not add any cleaner into a gas tank that has less than 10 gallons in it, because they're usually designed to be used with at least that much gas, up to 25 gallons
I put the Redline in at 1/2 tank yesterday and then filled up. I took it on the freeway and aired it out good. I know it's early and it may be in my head but so far the engine feels peppier. Getting the oil changed tomorrow
 
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Side note here...T&TR has been permanently banned for blatantly ignoring a previous warning, site rules, sm1ke's many attempts to encourage cooperation in addition to being confrontational, condescending and upsetting Members.

Thread cleanup pending, please keep it on topic, thanks!
 
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Side note here...T&TR has been permanently banned for blatantly ignoring a previous warning, site rules, sm1ke's many attempts to encourage cooperation in addition to being confrontational, condescending and upsetting Members. ...
This is almost certainly the same individual who was member M3RacerX on mazda3forums, and was banned from there a few years ago. And is also almost certainly member Callisto on mazdaforum, where the trolling continues, because the moderator there is asleap at the wheel. Exact same style and MO on all 3 forums. There is virtually no one else that I've seen who continually trolls garbage like this, and I recognized it immediately.

I had thought about sending a PM to you folks but, knowing that you're very much on top of this forum, I suspected that you would be cleaning up this mess in short order without needing any help at all. Apologies to the OP for side tracking this thread, but I just felt the need to shout out a big THANK YOU to the mods for doing a great job in maintaining a nice, friendly community here(y)
 
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For other members here, I found ignoring and disengaging from the thread seemed to work for me. Whatever forum or website (Facebook, Twitter, etc) sometime disengaging from confrontation seems to work the best.
 
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I had thought about sending a PM to you folks but, knowing that you're very much on top of this forum, I suspected that you would be cleaning up this mess in short order without needing any help at all. Apologies to the OP for side tracking this thread, but I just felt the need to shout out a big THANK YOU to the mods for doing a great job in maintaining a nice, friendly community here(y)

Thanks @edmaz, we appreciate the kind words! We do our best :)

I took a day off yesterday, but it looks like @Antoine was able to lay the smack down for us (y)
 
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For other members here, I found ignoring and disengaging from the thread seemed to work for me. Whatever forum or website (Facebook, Twitter, etc) sometime disengaging from confrontation seems to work the best.

Disengaging does seem to be the best practice, and can even be useful in other situations (road rage, for example).
 
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