2013~2016: CX-5 Suspension noises and steering feels mushy

[ColoradoDriver]

So a few days ago I started noticing some almost grinding noises under the car when I was slow speed turning, like in a parking lot, but it's pretty inconsistent, it doesn't  always happen. The other thing i noticed was that the steering sometimes feels like tther's a low tire, but there isn't.

guessing something wrong with the suspension, but any ideas where to look? New territory for me.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Think it might be the front passenger strut.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Looked at it a little closer and not seeing anything leaking, so maybe just torn boot.

Wondering if the mushy feeling and occasional grinding noise when turning is a cv joint or wheel bearing or something?

This is really all new territory for me so I don't really know.

 

[RedBaron]

Hah! I replied to this yesterday, but apparently didn't press the 'Post' button. Maybe a little late now...
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Sounds like a CV joint on one of the driveshafts has failed. Turn your wheels all the way to the right & left and look both sides to see if the one/both rubber bellows has/have split. See pic - not a Mazda, but should look similar:

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Hah! I replied to this yesterday, but apparently didn't press the 'Post' button. Maybe a little late now...
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Sounds like a CV joint on one of the driveshafts has failed. Turn your wheels all the way to the right & left and look both sides to see if the one/both rubber bellows has/have split. See pic - not a Mazda, but should look similar:

OK, had a guy I know and trust diagnose it and looks like the lower control arm bushings are shot on both sides, sway bar links could use replacement, and front struts are binding up.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Yeah..that seems to be a common failure point on these rigs. Many TSBs and revisions

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Well tried replacing the lower control arms and let's just say I had to give up trying to get the damn bolt out of the ball joint portion.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

You aren’t alone

2013~2016: - CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty?

Hi all, I have a FWD 2015 CX5 with about 85,000 miles on it and everything runs great. My front lower control arms are super creaky over bumps (which sounds like a common issue) so I was hoping to replace them. I’ve seen some mixed reviews, but how tough is this as a DIY job? I just replaced...

mazdas247.com

 

[ColoradoDriver]

You aren’t alone

2013~2016: - CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty?

Hi all, I have a FWD 2015 CX5 with about 85,000 miles on it and everything runs great. My front lower control arms are super creaky over bumps (which sounds like a common issue) so I was hoping to replace them. I’ve seen some mixed reviews, but how tough is this as a DIY job? I just replaced...

mazdas247.com

Yeah really not sure what to do. Some folks told me a blow-torch but I don't want to melt the boot above the bolt lol.

 

[yrwei52]

Hah! I replied to this yesterday, but apparently didn't press the 'Post' button.

This seems to happen to me more often in recent days too ⋯

 

[Lazy2.5]

I have more than 315,000KM on my Mazda 6. Drive on rough roads. Corner it hard. the struts and springs are original and in very good shape. How common is this on the Skyactiv?

Both the control arms due to bushings and ball joints, a tie rod, both end links have been replaced. The suspension feels pretty darn good for the mileage.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

I have more than 315,000KM on my Mazda 6. Drive on rough roads. Corner it hard. the struts and springs are original and in very good shape. How common is this on the Skyactiv?

Both the control arms due to bushings and ball joints, a tie rod, both end links have been replaced. The suspension feels pretty darn good for the mileage.

Honestly I didn't visually see anything leaking from the struts, and only saw the torn boot on the passenger side.

The mechanic that looked at it said it was "binding up" but I am not really sure what he means by that.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Here are some possible reasons for "binding struts":

Worn or damaged strut bearings: These bearings can usually be replaced individually without needing to replace the entire strut assembly. This is a relatively simple repair for a mechanic.

Damaged or worn-out strut mounts: Similar to strut bearings, strut mounts can often be replaced individually without needing to replace the entire strut assembly.

Coil spring issues: If the coil spring is the cause of the binding, it might need to be replaced or repositioned. Depending on the extent of the damage, this could require replacing the entire strut assembly.

Ask your mechanic what it would take to refresh your current struts/springs without replacing them. Unless things are bouncing around, i'm confident they are still okay.

If your end links have play in them, have them replaced. it will greatly improve steering feel as you are desiring.

If it is only your bushings cracked/worn out, (but the ball joints are tight) Then I would not worry about it for the time being.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Here are some possible reasons for "binding struts":

Worn or damaged strut bearings: These bearings can usually be replaced individually without needing to replace the entire strut assembly. This is a relatively simple repair for a mechanic.

Damaged or worn-out strut mounts: Similar to strut bearings, strut mounts can often be replaced individually without needing to replace the entire strut assembly.

Coil spring issues: If the coil spring is the cause of the binding, it might need to be replaced or repositioned. Depending on the extent of the damage, this could require replacing the entire strut assembly.

Ask your mechanic what it would take to refresh your current struts/springs without replacing them. Unless things are bouncing around, i'm confident they are still okay.

If your end links have play in them, have them replaced. it will greatly improve steering feel as you are desiring.

If it is only your bushings cracked/worn out, (but the ball joints are tight) Then I would not worry about it for the time being.

So visually the bushing and the sway bar links need replacing. I'm not getting crazy bouncing around or anything that would indicate strut problems to be honest, but maybe worth looking at after doing the other two fixes first.

 

[Lazy2.5]

So visually the bushing and the sway bar links need replacing. I'm not getting crazy bouncing around or anything that would indicate strut problems to be honest, but maybe worth looking at after doing the other two fixes first.

Agreed.

 

[yrwei52]

Yeah really not sure what to do. Some folks told me a blow-torch but I don't want to melt the boot above the bolt lol.

In Coronado with plenty of snows in winter, you’ll have a hard time to loose those suspension bolts and nuts due to the rust issue on CX-5. I suggest to use a lot of penetrating oil soaking these rusted bolts on lower control arms for a couple of days first. Then use long ½” breaker bar or even add a metal pipe trying to loose the bolts and nuts. I wouldn’t use the torch though.

You can also check the price from indie shops replacing the LCAs. I just replaced a bent LCA on passenger side due a hard hit to the curb. Brakes Plus charged me $250 on labor with my own OEM LCA. The $89 4-wheel alignment is additional.

2013~2016 CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)ou can replace the bushing only in the LCAs. But with all the labor involved you might as well replace the entire LCA with the ball joint which most likely needs replacement too. Unfortunately the parts and labor have gone up greatly in recent years, this task isn’t going to be cheap like before even if you DIY.

And you may also need front stabilizer link at you mileage too:

What is this 2014 CX-5 part? Clunk sound

Edit: just saw your posts in another thread mentioned above.

 

[yrwei52]

Yeah really not sure what to do.

You can go to Brakes Plus or any other reputable indie shop and just tell them the symptom and let them tell you what they’re going to do and what is the cost.

IMO in your case you should choose a reputable indie shop (Brakes Plus?) to replace both font LCAs and may be stabilizer links. I’d get OEM parts and pay the labor as apparently the rust issue can be a big hassle for a DIYer. I wouldn’t do anything to the front struts yet unless they’re leaking or obviously weak. In my experience the front struts usually last for a long time. And replacing them is a much easier job for DIYer to save some money.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

You can go to Brakes Plus or any other reputable indie shop and just tell them the symptom and let them tell you what they’re going to do and what is the cost.

IMO in your case you should choose a reputable indie shop (Brakes Plus?) to replace both font LCAs and may be stabilizer links. I’d get OEM parts and pay the labor as apparently the rust issue can be a big hassle for a DIYer. I wouldn’t do anything to the front struts yet unless they’re leaking or obviously weak. In my experience the front struts usually last for a long time. And replacing them is a much easier job for DIYer to save some money.

Brakes Plus wanted $2700 to do both control arms, sway bar links, and struts (and shocks). I don't need shocks.

Control arms alone they wanted $1100 for parts + labor. They sure had a markup on the parts.

I'm going to buy my own OE parts online and then try again at a buddy's house to see if we can get the bolts off. If not, then I'll pay a shop the labor for the LCA's.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Going through all that trouble to replace LCA for just some Bushings.. hm.

Replace the end links first. Shop around. I think you'll be happy with the result.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

Going through all that trouble to replace LCA for just some Bushings.. hm.

Replace the end links first. Shop around. I think you'll be happy with the result.

I am approaching 136k miles and the car is 11 1/2 years old. Figured didn't hurt.