CX-5 2.5L Oil Usage

[Unobtanium]

For 2016 CX-5 you can set "Flexible" oil change interval by yourself. This is very popular feature worldwide but not in the USA. You change your oil when the on-board computer tells you. There is no pre-set mileage or time period for oil change. If you set your OCI to flexible, the screen will show percentage of oil life instead of mileage due.

I don't go to dealer for maintenance unless some warranty issues I can't handle.

My z06 had it. Most American cars do. My Japanese cars have nkt.

 

[CC58]

pg 6-20 in manual
on display screen - applications setting, then maintenance

Checked my 2014.5 CX-5 and it doesn't have maintenance reminder built into the trip computer via the display screen.
I decided to change oil in 7,000 mile intervals to make it easier to remember.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Checked my 2014.5 CX-5 and it doesn't have maintenance reminder built into the trip computer via the display screen.
I decided to change oil in 7,000 mile intervals to make it easier to remember.

Not positive but I think '13-'15 maintenance reminder is only on the GTs.

 

[ALafya]

The CRV thread you mentioned barely has any posts. It is not an indication of anything. Compare it to the vibration at idle thread http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/63138-2015-honda-cr-v-vibration-idle-339.html

The Escape thread you mentioned has 57 posts ... I'd say it has little traction.
The Forester forum has also very few posts.

Thank you for validating my claim.

 

[MikeM.]

The CRV thread you mentioned barely has any posts. It is not an indication of anything. Compare it to the vibration at idle thread http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/63138-2015-honda-cr-v-vibration-idle-339.html

The Escape thread you mentioned has 57 posts ... I'd say it has little traction.
The Forester forum has also very few posts.

Thank you for validating my claim.

Out of respect for this oil consumption (or lack thereof) thread, I'm going to reply in the cracked windshield thread:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Cracked-Windshields-on-CX-5-s-and-Poll/page11

 

[V8toilet]

(flame2)(flame2) Anyone smell burning oil in here?

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Probably a newer thread on this... didn't think it warranted a new one

At 5K miles on current oil at 20K miles I can't see any "noticeable" consumption on the dipstick. It is still right at the line. I will be changing again in a few weeks.

 

[protege02]

So my 16.5 CX5(bought it new in Feb of 16) goes through oil pretty quickly. Keep in mind my commute to work is 4 miles round trip, and it is 90 plus degrees and extremely humid in Georgia. I figure this would classify as an extreme condition, and the fact that I'm in traffic to and from work. Usually takes 8-15 minutes one way to work, and vehicle is driven more on Saturday or Sunday than it is during the week. First oil change was at 5k miles and it was almost empty. Dealer here stated it was low, but Mazda doesn't consider it an issue. Dealer ran an oil consumption test for next 1000 miles. Drove vehicle to Louisiana and back and it was reading almost full. Vehicle now has 10,xxx miles on it, and it is going in tomorrow for 2nd oil change. I added a quart of 0w20 Mobile 1, for it is what the dealer has previously put into vehicle and they have been booked since 7/2 when I originally planned to get the oil change. I'm going to switch to Mazda moly oil to see if anything changes. I take it this engine wants to be driven as opposed to not in order to maximize oil usage. Also, I've had three different accounts of this vehicle have a burnt oil smell to it. The first time, my wife was driving it and passed someone around 6,000 miles at 70 plus mph, second occurrence came one morning around 8,000 miles, and last time it happened was a little over a week ago pulling out of apartment complex. I floored vehicle all the way to red line for the first time(All of this time, I didn't know it had a second step to actually floor the vehicle). Not too sure if I should worrying about burnt oil smell, for I don't beat on this vehicle like all of my previous vehicles. Does this occur with anyone else? I figure the 0w20 synthetic oil would be easier to burn because of how thin it is. My 2002 Spec V, vehicle before this, had it's oil change every 3k to 3500 miles or 6 months, and it never read near the low line. It just had a coolant smell that would occur if you got hard on it every now and then. I'll just add oil to this one every 3-4 months and change the oil every 5000 mile or 6 months.

 

[yrwei52]

So my 16.5 CX5(bought it new in Feb of 16) goes through oil pretty quickly.

It's unfortunate your 2016.5 CX-5 needs to add a quart of oil before each oil change. The guideline for manufacture to considered the engine is having oil burning issue is it uses at least a quart of oil in 1K miles. Your situation is far from that and you definitely won't get any help from Mazda. Nevertheless it's annoying you do need to add oil between oil changes. Like some had suggested, you should try different brand of oil and see. Switch from Mobil 1 to Mazda moly is a step to the right direction.

My CX-5 uses oil about ⅓ between Full and Add marks on dipstick before each oil change. Although it's not ideal but at least I don't need to add oil between changes which would be annoying.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

So my 16.5 CX5(bought it new in Feb of 16) goes through oil pretty quickly. Keep in mind my commute to work is 4 miles round trip, and it is 90 plus degrees and extremely humid in Georgia. I figure this would classify as an extreme condition, and the fact that I'm in traffic to and from work. Usually takes 8-15 minutes one way to work, and vehicle is driven more on Saturday or Sunday than it is during the week. First oil change was at 5k miles and it was almost empty. Dealer here stated it was low, but Mazda doesn't consider it an issue. Dealer ran an oil consumption test for next 1000 miles. Drove vehicle to Louisiana and back and it was reading almost full. Vehicle now has 10,xxx miles on it, and it is going in tomorrow for 2nd oil change. I added a quart of 0w20 Mobile 1, for it is what the dealer has previously put into vehicle and they have been booked since 7/2 when I originally planned to get the oil change. I'm going to switch to Mazda moly oil to see if anything changes. I take it this engine wants to be driven as opposed to not in order to maximize oil usage. Also, I've had three different accounts of this vehicle have a burnt oil smell to it. The first time, my wife was driving it and passed someone around 6,000 miles at 70 plus mph, second occurrence came one morning around 8,000 miles, and last time it happened was a little over a week ago pulling out of apartment complex. I floored vehicle all the way to red line for the first time(All of this time, I didn't know it had a second step to actually floor the vehicle). Not too sure if I should worrying about burnt oil smell, for I don't beat on this vehicle like all of my previous vehicles. Does this occur with anyone else? I figure the 0w20 synthetic oil would be easier to burn because of how thin it is. My 2002 Spec V, vehicle before this, had it's oil change every 3k to 3500 miles or 6 months, and it never read near the low line. It just had a coolant smell that would occur if you got hard on it every now and then. I'll just add oil to this one every 3-4 months and change the oil every 5000 mile or 6 months.

First off your dealer is using the wrong oil, as recommended by Mazda.

Second, your CX-5 should NOT be using that much oil between changes.

Third, your first oil change was at 5k miles and it was almost empty? Your oil light didn't come on? You should be checking the oil level yourself to see what's going on. Don't rely on the dealer to do everything.

Forth, you live two miles from your workplace? You can't bike to work?

 

[yrwei52]

First off your dealer is using the wrong oil, as recommended by Mazda.

His Mazda dealer did use correct oil - Mobil 1 0W-20, but it's not Mazda recommended oil - Mazda moly or Castrol 0W-20 full synthetic oil. I believe current Mobil 1 oil is no longer be the same Mobil 1 oil in the old days, and it wouldn't be my preferred oil to use.

Third, your first oil change was at 5k miles and it was almost empty? Your oil light didn't come on? You should be checking the oil level yourself to see what's going on. Don't rely on the dealer to do everything.

I believe he meant the oil level was barely reached by dipstick way below the Add mark. The oil light is the oil pressure light. It won't come on as long as the oil pump can suck oil, where the oil level can be very low. Although we're supposed to check oil from time to time, but I know many people they simply rely on dealer to do all maintenance work, including all fluid level and tire pressure checks. And most people don't realize a brand new vehicle may still be burning oil if the engine been assemblied a bit off or with a little inferior parts such as weak piston rings.

 

[Seabright]

My 16.5 used about 3/4 of a quart in the first 5000 miles. Oil also smelled of gas for the first 2000 miles, then went away. Just checked and oil level hasn't moved perceptibly in 1200 miles. Dealer used Eneos 0W20. I suspect there was some oil consumption due to engine break-in.

 

[7eregrine]

Forth, you live two miles from your workplace? You can't bike to work?

Agree, I owuld almost feel bad even starting my car for a 2 mile trip, but arriving as a hot sweaty mess to work I am assuming isn't very acceptable. Although, I'm Italian...I sweat. A lot.

 

[Unobtanium]

First off your dealer is using the wrong oil, as recommended by Mazda.

Second, your CX-5 should NOT be using that much oil between changes.

Third, your first oil change was at 5k miles and it was almost empty? Your oil light didn't come on? You should be checking the oil level yourself to see what's going on. Don't rely on the dealer to do everything.

Forth, you live two miles from your workplace? You can't bike to work?

Why would you? Much higher risk of traffic related injury/death, sucks when it's hot out and you're expected to show up looking professional, REALLY sucks when you go to work and it's nice and 60-70*F out and you leave work and it's a raging ice storm. Simply so many reasons to take a car. Also, somewhat unique to my job, I may start work at one facility, and get pulled by management to another facility 15 miles away in a few hours. Never know.

 

[Guest2019C20]

Proper ring break-in **requires** large throttle (75%+) for a couple seconds at a time, when the engine is new.

Most people don't do this, because they have been led to believe it will destroy the engine.

I've done this procedure on over a dozen cycles, and 8 cars. None of them consumed much oil between 5,000 mile oil changes, even at 170,000 miles. When I had 150,000 mile service done on an outback, the tech did the compression test twice because he didn't believe it could be that high at that mileage.

 

[Unobtanium]

Proper ring break-in **requires** large throttle (75%+) for a couple seconds at a time, when the engine is new.

Most people don't do this, because they have been led to believe it will destroy the engine.

I've done this procedure on over a dozen cycles, and 8 cars. None of them consumed much oil between 5,000 mile oil changes, even at 170,000 miles. When I had 150,000 mile service done on an outback, the tech did the compression test twice because he didn't believe it could be that high at that mileage.

There is a very specific break in procedure for high performance engines that I have used on all my cars. Came in the manual with my C6 Z06. Basically, over the first 1000 miles, you work your way up to 100% load, and 100% redline.

Main thing for most people to keep in mind is to keep the LOAD on a new car relatively low, and vary the rpms, typically up to 4000 rpm at the highest for the firs 500 miles, then work your way progressively to redline by 1000 miles, also increasing load at this point.

Engine braking is also very useful/important, as it sucks the rings to the cylinder walls.

Ul;ultimately, do what your owner's manual states.

Remember, break-in is about pads, clutches, transmission gears, output shafts and bearings, diffs, and so on. Not just rings.