CS downpipe help !!

[CENTERS77]

ok so i bought the CS downpipe thinking it was going to be a relatively easy mod that would not take more than a few hours and wouldn't require me to "move my engine forward"

and its not like i can have a shop do this for me because it would be breaking an emissions law and removing a cat converter.

if anybody can help me out with any shortcuts to putting this thing in or should i just go by what the directions say that came with the piece ?

Thanks

 

[Blendercloud]

Definitely use the instructions that were included. To move the engine forward you can remove the rear engine mount and use a floor jack to manipulate the engine's position.

As you might already be aware, this is in no way a light mod. It may take you a full day or more to do this if you run into some bad luck.

 

[CENTERS77]

i guess ill have to plan a weekend to do this. its just weird because i talk to all my buddies with SRT4s and audi's and they have no problem getting to there Downpipes. so i dont know why mazda has to make there so hard to access. i guess it will be worth it when i get done with it though.

 

[amilliems6]

i guess ill have to plan a weekend to do this. its just weird because i talk to all my buddies with SRT4s and audi's and they have no problem getting to there Downpipes. so i dont know why mazda has to make there so hard to access. i guess it will be worth it when i get done with it though.

simply because its a mazda

the end.

 

[USAFVMI08]

Definitely use the instructions that were included. To move the engine forward you can remove the rear engine mount and use a floor jack to manipulate the engine's position.

As you might already be aware, this is in no way a light mod. It may take you a full day or more to do this if you run into some bad luck.

+1 to this. It took me a full day and a half to get mine installed. The instructions that were provided, although lengthy, definitely make it a lot easier to install than just trying to "wing it."

 

[Danems6]

a little suggestion...
i have done a few DP installs on ms6 and in my opinion removing the alternator helps out a bit. then you dont have to deal with loosening the motor mount ant jacking.

i would get some PB blaster and a few swivels(for socket) and maybe a deep wall 14mm socket

removal of alternator
-loosen the tensioner pully
*inspect the way the serpentine belt wraps around pullies (also a diagram on hood i believe)
.....-14mm wrench to the pully, which is located near the passenger side wheel (removal of wheel may be necessary).
.....- once tensioner pully is located, put wrench on and move as if you were tightening it. this loosens the belt.
.....- as you have tension on the pully and the belt is loose, move the belt off one of the pullies

next look at the alternator. you will notice a black ducking.
-remove the 10mm bolts for the ducting
-remove ducting

Taking the alternator out
- 3 14mm bolts (which the 10mm were on the end of) (one on top, two on bottom) should be removed.

now you have options. there are a few wires going to the back of this thing.
a connector allows them to clip out but that gets tricky.
you can put something in your engine bay to let it drop down a few inches to gain clearance and rest on whatever object you choose (i used an empty oil quart)

im tired of writing.. if you want to know more then tell me. thats pretty much the process and reinstall is just doing it backwards.
the thing that makes the stock DP removal hard is the clearance between the exhaust manifold, alternator, and firewall.
removing the alternator makes it easier to do.

 

[superskaterxes]

lol you dont need to remove the alternator. rock the engine and it will come out. i got this down to about 2.5 hours now.