Cross threaded TRZ mount: Ugh

Wehrmacht

Member
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2008.5 MS3 Sport in Black Mica
(bang)

I attempted to uninstall my TRZ dogbone mount to go back to stock for a dealer visit, only to discover the mounts threads on the welded nut were completely shot. Mount has been installed for approx. 8,000 miles.

The bolt is completely wrecked, and all of the threads on the welded nut are as well. I can't imagine how I could have cross threaded this thing so badly on the install - as I had no difficulty in putting the unit in. I have tightened the mount one time to remedy some slight squeeks and jitters, but I honestly don't know how this damage was done.

Doubly unfortunate that I tossed the bolt that held the stock mount in place, so going back to stock at this point isn't even an option. Also the bolt and nut have had too much material removed and will not take to a thread cleaning.

Pretty upset at this point, I may go with a CPE mount or something.
 

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Ahahha.. I tried my best not to do what I did.. humor aside I don't know what was done that could have done this. It went in easy enough on install, was discovered this nasty upon removal.
 
Is that the bolt that came with the mount? Might have sent you the wrong thread pitch or it's just a crappy bolt.
 
Right... bolt that came with the TRZ. Looks like some nice galvenized steel to me, but it is slaughterhoused at the end.
 
I've used Heli-coil a few times when I had my Subie and had good success. One was for where the BPV connected to the I/C; another for the bushing bracket on a swaybar; and the last for an anchoring seat bolt.
 
Unless Protege garage is willing to assist in providing a single bolt so that I can return to stock or another solution, I will be looking into a CPE mount. The trz on the car was too rough riding for my application, and as it sits is inoperable.
 
Is it the nut that is welded to the TRZ mount the one that got screwed up? If so, you have two options to fix it.

1st (best option besides buying a new mount) Carefully cut the welds holding the messed up nut and remove the nut completely. Then you could have someone weld a new nut on or simply use a nut by itself (a locking type nut or at least a locking type washer)

2nd (which is the easiest but not the cleanest). Just drill out the messed up nut so a new correct sized bolt will pass thru it. Then buy a longer bolt and use a nut like in the 1st option.

Good Luck,

BulldogSRT
 
Well I went back and look at your pics again and it looks like the bolt that is messed up IS the stock bolt. By the looks of the stepped portion near the head and the built in washer that is the OEM bolt. Also I am wrong about only 2 options...........the Helicoil repair would work if you choose to go that way.

BulldogSRT

BTW If you are definately not going to ever use the TRZ mount let me know....I would pay you something for it fixed or not.
 
isnt the trz pretty much the most solid reliable mount?

Yes. This is either user error on my behalf or a bad bolt or something that had some crap in the threads and tore up the nut.



Bulldog are you positive that was the stock bolt? Was pretty confident I used the new bolt included in the kit, and threw the old bolt out. Could be the issue if so... used the wrong pitch or something.

Yes I'm going with CPE at this point, the trz may be the most solid and reliable, but its a bit harsh for daily driveability in my opinion.

I'll sell you the TRZ for cheap once I get the new gear.
 
Looks like over-torque damage to me. Did you use a torque wrench? Was there grease, oil, water or anti-sieze on the threads?

I'd try to cut the welds with a dremel (carefully) if you have one and weld a new nut on. Drilling through and using a longer bolt with a second nut adds new stresses to the bolt and nut and control of shearing forces is the issue here.
 
i can take the mount back and see if i can rethread it for you and send a new bolt back with it
 
Yes. This is either user error on my behalf or a bad bolt or something that had some crap in the threads and tore up the nut.



Bulldog are you positive that was the stock bolt? Was pretty confident I used the new bolt included in the kit, and threw the old bolt out. Could be the issue if so... used the wrong pitch or something.

Yes I'm going with CPE at this point, the trz may be the most solid and reliable, but its a bit harsh for daily driveability in my opinion.

I'll sell you the TRZ for cheap once I get the new gear.


Maybe it was harsh because of the problem you're describing? Might not be but there's a chance...

I got mine this week from PG and I'm happy with it. Just used the old bolt since mine didnt come with one.
 
Appreciate the offer Ken, I may take you up on it. It is a primary vehicle so I've got an alternative solution in the mix for the mean time but I'd love to have an operable trz mount!

First bolt I've ever cross threaded - if that is what happened. Even after going through a head swap on a 1994 BMW straight six I hadn't experienced hardware tearing threads like that, dang!

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=949104

In the mean time I'll try out the CPE mount, hopefully its a bit softer on the cabin and chassis noise. The TRZ's harshness I experienced maybe was magnified by a faulty install ...
 
A quick update - I've removed the TRZ and installed a CPE in its place. The CPE I think is where I'll stay, as it is so much quieter and civil in the cabin, and just feels better all around for a daily driver.

So I've got the TRZ... I'd like to get rid of it to a forum member but it will need to be rethreaded. Is 25$ shipped fair? PM me.
 

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