Cross Drilled Or Slotted??

One final note, and not to sound like a spoilsport or "dad", but as an instructor I feel compelled to reiterate this, don't race on the street. The track is a more appropriate and much safer place to do it. It also keeps the police off your case which is hard enough without street racing.

Not to mention that chasing an EVO (which has large heat sink capable brakes with wide and sticky tires) down a canyon road, you might end up either in the guard rail, the ditch or the oncoming lane.

I agree. Take it to the track.

And those Toyo RA-1 tires are great. I bought a used set at the Run Offs last year and they were still amazing. I ran those tires with Hawk Blue brake pads and ATE Super Blue fluid on my Saturn at the track (Hallett Motor Racing Circuit). Awesome combo.
 
I used to use SuperBlue and Typ200 (alternating so I could tell when the bleed was done) and I boiled those as well. I can run an entire season (20-30 track days) on one flush of SRF. It's truly amazing stuff. It might cost 4 times as much, but you get 8-10 times the use, and then only because I feel bad about running with year old fluid in the lines.

And about the Toyos, I love the RA-1, but they're replacing it with the R888. They don't make it in a size to fit any of my cars just yet, but the tire's new and they're supposed to replace the whole RA-1 line and add a few more sizes as well.

I hope the R888 is as great a performer as the RA-1. The fully thing about the RA-1 is that the more you drive it, the stickier it gets, almost to the cord. They're a fantastic rain tire when brand new, but each 2/32nd brings you down closer to a full slick. When they're about ready to replace, they're only about a second off the times I get with Hoosier R6 (but the Hoosier crack pipe is a bit too much money for me with the number of days I spend at the track).
 
Ok wow that was a lot to soak upl!!! Ok first off Im not gonna do track at all really. mountain runs like twice a year if that, or anything really to put full work on my brake and rotors.Just mostly streets. Trust me if I could I wouldnt be street racing all the time. I already have enough tickets:mad:

The things is we only have one track here and before they use to have it every other fri,sat night at the Q ( charger staduim) Well some s*** happen and now they cut down to who the **** knows when every once a month or something, but they are fighting that right now they city and some other people I forget who they are. So everyone out here is hitting the streets BAD!!!! (msporange

So with that said and knowing what kinda braking Im doing out here. What would you rec????
 
It sounds like you don't do much hard braking at all. The stock setup would probably work well for you. If you want a better feel, try braided lines. If you want to get a good rotor, then go for the EBC slotted and dimpled. It has a good ability to keep the system cool because of the extra surface area, but the material is abrasive enough with a good pad to stop you quickly. I'd look at a ceramic pad to go with the EBC. AJUSA has a good price on the rotors (and maybe pads as well).

No matter what, I'd go for the good stuff when it comes to brake fluid. Especially if you end up doing a mountain run in hot weather and your brakes get a little hotter than usual. Knowing your brake fluid, even year old stuff, will not boil, is a good feeling. I use GS610 or Castrol SRF in all my vehicles. It's a good feeling.

So, stock or EBC rotors, ceramic pads, and real racing fluid. With what you do, you should be fine.
 
It sounds like you don't do much hard braking at all. The stock setup would probably work well for you. If you want a better feel, try braided lines. If you want to get a good rotor, then go for the EBC slotted and dimpled. It has a good ability to keep the system cool because of the extra surface area, but the material is abrasive enough with a good pad to stop you quickly. I'd look at a ceramic pad to go with the EBC. AJUSA has a good price on the rotors (and maybe pads as well).

No matter what, I'd go for the good stuff when it comes to brake fluid. Especially if you end up doing a mountain run in hot weather and your brakes get a little hotter than usual. Knowing your brake fluid, even year old stuff, will not boil, is a good feeling. I use GS610 or Castrol SRF in all my vehicles. It's a good feeling.

So, stock or EBC rotors, ceramic pads, and real racing fluid. With what you do, you should be fine.


All right sounds good to me thanks!!!but

AJUSA has a good price on the rotors (and maybe pads as well).
Is the name of the company AJUSA. Do I just gooogle that and it will come up or what??? Sounds good and Ill probably start with some braided lines first. Since its the cheapest part to do
(drinks)
 
http://www.ajusa.com/

I've bought a lot of stuff from them for both my cars. Make sure to ask if things are in stock and when they'll be shipped. Sometimes, things are a week out and you don't get them when you were hoping. They're not the only company I've had that problem with. I ordered fuel injectors from a Protege specific store and it took over a month to get them.

While you're doing the braided lines, you should just go ahead and do the fluid. You're going to be replacing it anyway. You can get GS610 or SRF from OGRacing. http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/home.asp?categ=68

OGRacing also has a handy guide to the different fluids they carry:

http://www.ogracing.com/files/brakefluid.htm
 
For what you're doing, the Greenstuff should be fine. You can get the Redstuff, but I don't think you'll need it. You might also consider the Hawk HP+ or Blue pads from TireRack.
 
For what you're doing, the Greenstuff should be fine. You can get the Redstuff, but I don't think you'll need it. You might also consider the Hawk HP+ or Blue pads from TireRack.

Ok Ill look into that and like you said I hardly use my brakes at full force..I do from time to time but not all crazy....
 
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