Crazee build

Crazee D

Member
Contributor
:
White P5 go-kart
I got dynoed yesterday.
No files yet but

1st pull 70 hp (no lie)
2nd pull 90 hp / AND 169 tq (woot for mods)

Its an Auto so...it was speed governing (i think (dunno)) when we tried it in 4th gear so the second time we used 3rd.

I wanted a "baseline" or before dyno to compare to after I get my cams in with my UDP and 626 mani along with some tuning via the MPI.
$50 for 2 pulls
Next time I'll try and take advantage of having a few fuel and timing maps ready to try out while their WBO2 is logging.
 
CAI, OBX Header, 2-1/4" exhaust with hi-flow cat and Ractive muffler.
I have an MPI connected but I have not started tuning the maps yet.
 
Congrats...my baseline was 90HP too but that was stock...I can see how much power those auto's rob you. Definitely some good torque though.
 
Not to rain on your parade but...

There is no way in the universe those Tq numbers are accurate.
 
Yeah, there's no way you're making 169lb-ft of torque. At 4500RPM, 169lb-ft is 144hp. Even if you made peak torque at 4000RPM, that's still 128hp. Conversely, 90hp at 6000RPM(assuming that's where you make peak horsepower), is only 79lb-ft.
 
Well, checked with the dyno place and found some more info:
the Dynacom dyno we used is typically 7% lower numbers than a DynaJet would be. I asked if this were a braked or inertial dyno and he said its both. 2 980 pound drums for inertial and can use braking if it exceeds the inertial capacity.
Due to the coil-on plug (wasted spark) he used a laser eye to get rpm reading (i think). Anyone know if this makes a big diff?
Everyone else who dynoed that day got numbers that were within expectations.

Cams are here, YAY!
 
Trying to compile a complete to-do list

Troubleshoot MPI hook-up / 02 wiring issue
Repaint cailpers and rotor hats - did front
Tranny flush n fill
GT spec Ladder bar - complete
Adjust coilovers - Adj front
install brake line stand offs
OEM sub wiring
scoring of 626 mani (already PnP)
adapt OEM fuel rail
UDP and belts
Check bumper support (rattling)
rear wiper mod - complete
order donut gasket and cam seals - complete
header wrap
pay for stock head to be shipped for PnP
paint/recondition valve cover
oil catch and coolant overflow (still)
check for water leak in passenger side foot well

let see, what else?
 
Last edited:
LOL, that's just too much crap to do for the out put you get. But it sounds like it'll be a cool little car when it's all done. EVERY now and then I miss mine. But thin I climb in my jeep and for get about it.
 
Crazee D said:
Trying to compile a complete to-do list

Troubleshoot MPI hook-up / 02 wiring issue
what issue you having dude?

I had a HUGE nightmare getting the microtech up and running on my 2002 model...... so if the problem is: providing signal to ecu to turn on, or altenator not running, or car not powering off, or a bunch of other little gremlins...give me a shout.....i think the BJ2 J48 ended up with a completely different electrical setup from its predecessors :(
 
Hughes412 said:
LOL, that's just too much crap to do for the out put you get. But it sounds like it'll be a cool little car when it's all done. EVERY now and then I miss mine. But thin I climb in my jeep and for get about it.


Yeah, tell me about it!
Output is uber-weak right now.
I drove my Dad's Jeep the other day and just was not comfortable.

Hey LW I am trying to figure out why my AFR reads thru the MPI as 12.1 and blips to 12.3 but never really varies. Have to try some things to track down the issue.

I had a mechanic recommend that if the if the mix is too rich for the OE narrowband O2 sensors it might throw out a default reading like that.
He also identified that it was my exhaust leak making the popping sound I was hearing.

He recommended an NGK or FAST WBO2.

Other cosmetic stuff to add to list:
Rust inhibitor
touch up paint
repair and recondition rims
wax and "back to black" on trim
front splitter!
 
yeah get yourself a wideband O2 sensor..otherwise you are just tuning blind...

Most wbo2 sensors are actually bosch units, with fancy (and EXPENSIVE) gauges attached to them...do some googling around, there are some DIY wideband gauge kits - can't remember the site that you buy them from, but they use Bosch O2 sensors, with some pretty good circuitry - can even support logging and so forth...they come in a chunky ugly box but so what, it'll save you a bit of coin :)

google around - if you can't find it i'll go looking for you (can't remember hte site off the top of my head)
 
Got the GT spec ladder bar and splitter installed at the Altspace Garage today ;)
Thanks to Josh's help since I am still not too flexible after my appendix surgery.
We also did the M6 rear hatch wiper mod.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123643192
And I painted the new replacement 626 caliper (#4) with black paint.
Also decided to paint the exposed spacer surface. Did both fronts.
Used some Meguairs Back to Black on the trim with decent results.
True story, i had fresh roadkill guts ON the stock ladder bar from my trip to intall the GT piece.
We also adjusted my front coilovers. I backed off 2 full turns from max stiffness (6 turns).
 
The Meguiars helped lots of wax residue i had on the roof rack.
I really need to research installing the O2 sensor switch for tuning purposes. I'll probably nix the other O2 and go with the MIL/CEL fix.
 
Install cams!!
Troubleshoot MPI hook-up / 02 wiring issue
(also check for water leak in passenger side foot well)
OEM sub wiring
scoring of 626 mani (already PnP) & adapt OEM fuel rail
UDP and belts
Rust inhibitor & touch up paint
repair and recondition rims
buy header wrap and heat shielding for hood
pay for stock head to be shipped for PnP
paint/recondition valve cover
Tranny flush n fill
install brake line stand offs
Check bumper support (rattling)
oil catch and coolant overflow (still)
 
Last edited:
Back