Crank Pulley

[twilightprotege]

does anyone know what the stock crank pulley is made out of? is it like cast iron or something?

i ask coz i need to get a crank sensor plate made up for the rr-racing crank pulley i bought (the aussie car has a different sensor to the us-spec ones)

 

[viVid]

I'm not sure, but it's damn heavy. I've got my stocker out in the garage... I'll take a look tomorrow morning if you don't have an answer by then.

does anyone know what the stock crank pulley is made out of? is it like cast iron or something?

i ask coz i need to get a crank sensor plate made up for the rr-racing crank pulley i bought (the aussie car has a different sensor to the us-spec ones)

 

[twilightprotege]

sure does weigh a heap!

from what i can gather, it has to be magnetic so the crank pulley sensor reads the change in voltage, but the new sensor material has to be the same to give the same voltage reading. not magnetic enough, the sensor wont read. too magnetic and it'll read all the time...well i think so (confused)

are there any tests you can do to find out it's material, or better yet, what it's magnetic permeability is? the magnetic permeability is probably better as that way i can pick a lighter material with the same magnetic properties...

 

[twilightprotege]

but then again, i could be just over analysing it all and 400 series stainless steel will be enough (as it's quite magnetic) and it's light compared to most magnetic substances

 

[Mad Hatter]

but then again, i could be just over analysing it all and 400 series stainless steel will be enough (as it's quite magnetic) and it's light compared to most magnetic substances

Do you have to drop the motor to install the UP? Sorry to T/J.

 

[TurfBurn]

It's either cast iron or plain carbon 1040. I'm leaning toward the plain carbon steel. 400 series stainless would be more then enough strength wise to handle the part.

Chris, you dn't have to drop the motor to install the pulley. You pull all the body cladding from the passenger side and release the front and side mount and the motor will drop about 4 inches and then it is cake to hit the pulley with an impact wrench to get it out.

 

[DiS]

Chris, you dn't have to drop the motor to install the pulley. You pull all the body cladding from the passenger side and release the front and side mount and the motor will drop about 4 inches and then it is cake to hit the pulley with an impact wrench to get it out.

no need to do anything with mount at all. If you do, you just make it longer for urself

Jack the car. Get the front right wheel off, get the body cladding off. Underdrive pulley right there. Get urself impact socket with really long extension and wrench and get that sucker off. Its at 121 lbs of torque.

sorry for thread jack

 

[Mad Hatter]

It's either cast iron or plain carbon 1040. I'm leaning toward the plain carbon steel. 400 series stainless would be more then enough strength wise to handle the part.

Chris, you dn't have to drop the motor to install the pulley. You pull all the body cladding from the passenger side and release the front and side mount and the motor will drop about 4 inches and then it is cake to hit the pulley with an impact wrench to get it out.

Yeah, I knew it was something like that, just wasn't sure if you said we had to drop it... didn't seem right. Now I remember you saying pull the MM.

 

[DiS]

Yeah, I knew it was something like that, just wasn't sure if you said we had to drop it... didn't seem right. Now I remember you saying pull the MM.

DONT PULL THE MOTOR MOUNT!!!! THERE IS NO NEED

 

[Mad Hatter]

DONT PULL THE MOTOR MOUNT!!!! THERE IS NO NEED

Ok, I got ya. Thanks for your help.

 

[DiS]

(thumb)

 

[TurfBurn]

DONT PULL THE MOTOR MOUNT!!!! THERE IS NO NEED

If you don't have extensions you do need to lower the motor about 3" to do it to get the wrench in there. I'll have to see how it goes when Chris and I do his. I had to take out at least one motor mount when I had worked on mine because I was pulling the timing belt and the like as well. It was also about 3 -4 months ago..

If it's necessary we'll pull mounts, if not then we won't. Pretty simple. Either you can get at it when the cladding is off with the tools you have or not.

 

[twilightprotege]

turf, i'm not wanting to know the material for strength, i'm just wanting to get material which has the same magnetism. i have an aluminium pulley coming any day now, but no crank sensor plate (aussie sensor is different). atleast now with carbon steel 1040 i can find out if 400 series stainless has the same magnetism and if so, i'm set

 

[Installshield 2]

Yeah I was going to say steel too...I remember it not being iron, but I can't remember why..

 

[twilightprotege]

does anyone know the magnetic permeability of 1040 carbon steel? i found the figure of the 410 and 430 stainless steel (will use whichever is cheaper) from www.matweb.com , but they dont have the figures to 1040 carbon steel, and i cant find it elsewhere on the internet, well atleast not after 1 solid hour's searching. i just want to be sure they are close.

 

[TurfBurn]

I don't know and didn't find it in a quick search either. I'll hook up the oscilliscope to one of the extra CAS sensors I have laying around and I'll characterize the response with different steels for you. That should cover you.

 

[twilightprotege]

man that's great! thanks!!!!!!!!!!

 

[TurfBurn]

s*** forgot about it! I'll get to it this week though for sure! Are you in a major hurry or is that good enough?

 

[twilightprotege]

yeah this week will be fine thanks! your effort is greatly appreciated!!!!

 

[TurfBurn]

No problem. Any time you have a sensor or anything you need characterized or scoped let me know. Happy to do so! I try to keep records of them by posting all of it up on the forums. So it should help everyone too! I'll put up notes for myself, and get it taken care of this week.

Later.

Steve