So heard back from corporate today, they are only willing to assist with $2,000. & told me I need to call dealer to discuss pricing, when I was told the reason I have waited about 3 weeks now, was because they were asking the dealer for pricing. The dealer gave me the original $11k estimate. So it doesn’t look like Mazda is really willing to help at all. Now what in the world do I do.
Cracked Cylinder Head (2018 CX-9)
- Thread starter Ty17
- Start date
Have you heard back, & or made any progress with Mazda at all? I have waited 3 weeks, & finally got a ridiculous response today.
Joined Mazda247 to add to this thread. 2018 CX-9, cracked head, 106k miles. Louisville, KY dealership quote $6800 for head replacement. They say engine is fine. Mazda took 2 weeks to decide to decline assistance. They actually asked the dealership if they would "goodwill".
Not sure what to do now. Trade in is 19k unbroken. I owe 11k on the note. I am going to get a non dealership estimate.
Update:
Got a $6k offer to trade it in broken.
Bought a used 34k mile 2021 engine $3200. Installed $3300. Lasted 4 months and 1200 miles. Cracked again. Got a refund for the $3200 engine. Bought a 45k 2020 engine for $3200, put it in for another $3300, with a 1 yr parts and labor warrantee. Still owing 8k on the car, i traded it in for 14k and bought a Honda. Lost 7k cash plus all that extra i was paying on the car each month. No more Mazdas for me.
Not sure what to do now. Trade in is 19k unbroken. I owe 11k on the note. I am going to get a non dealership estimate.
Update:
Got a $6k offer to trade it in broken.
Bought a used 34k mile 2021 engine $3200. Installed $3300. Lasted 4 months and 1200 miles. Cracked again. Got a refund for the $3200 engine. Bought a 45k 2020 engine for $3200, put it in for another $3300, with a 1 yr parts and labor warrantee. Still owing 8k on the car, i traded it in for 14k and bought a Honda. Lost 7k cash plus all that extra i was paying on the car each month. No more Mazdas for me.
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I have a 2018 Mazda 6, was told needed a new engine replacement, dealer estimate over $11k. Only have 56,000 miles, but power train expired 2 months ago, because of the 5 year mark. Mazda refuses to do a goodwill repair. I owe 8k on the car still. Begged & pleaded with dealer & corporate for assistance. Got the dealer price down to $6,+, but my new concern is, I’m being told that I will be getting a basically new engine block. No one can guarantee me if this is a new and improved version. I sure hate to out-of-pocket thousands of dollars to end up with the same exact problem again this is just the worst experience ever. I wish you good luck, & fill out the form for the class action suit.
Here is a screenshot of the parts listing for the new cylinder head:
You can see how many previous versions this one supersedes. You'll get the current version head, where the problem started, as well as the current version of the short block (the engine below the head) which was damaged by running while overheated.
Notice to everyone....Watch the engine temperature. If it rises above the normal point pull over at the very first safe opportunity, park, call a tow truck. Save the rest of the engine from damage.
I carry an emergency kit. I carry a card of cooling system sealant tablets, a pint of water, and a gallon of coolant. If my engine temperature rises I'll stop and let it cool. I'll mix the sealant into the bottle of water, add that to the radiator, and add the gallon of coolant. (Unless the sealant instructions has different instructions.) For more information about coolant sealant call a sealant company...Bar's Leaks, tel: 800-345-6572.
You can see how many previous versions this one supersedes. You'll get the current version head, where the problem started, as well as the current version of the short block (the engine below the head) which was damaged by running while overheated.
Notice to everyone....Watch the engine temperature. If it rises above the normal point pull over at the very first safe opportunity, park, call a tow truck. Save the rest of the engine from damage.
I carry an emergency kit. I carry a card of cooling system sealant tablets, a pint of water, and a gallon of coolant. If my engine temperature rises I'll stop and let it cool. I'll mix the sealant into the bottle of water, add that to the radiator, and add the gallon of coolant. (Unless the sealant instructions has different instructions.) For more information about coolant sealant call a sealant company...Bar's Leaks, tel: 800-345-6572.
I just had the same experience. Add me to the list please.
This is just nuts. This guy knows nothing except how to fleece customers. The lower engine, the short block, is not the problem. The problem is the old design cylinder heads that cannot handle the weight of the turbocharger and exhaust manifold.
The symptom of the problem is the cracked head that lets coolant leak out. #2 symptom is the damaged short block after the lack of coolant causes the engine to overheat, the head warps, and remaining coolant gets into the oil system and wipes bearings.
The solution is to put a new design cylinder head on a good short block, including yours if you haven't yet overheated to the point of getting coolant into the oil system.
The bandaid is to watch the coolant temperature. If the needle rises stop in the first, the very first, safe place. Let the engine cool. Add water. Add stop leak if you can get some. Limp home adding water as needed. Go to a dealership or independent shop and get that new design head installed.
I spoke with a salesman who formerly worked at a Mazda store. He used the words, "when, not if," the engine will break and lose the coolant. I will feel no guilt if I need to use stop leak in my engine to get to a different brand store of the same owner I bought my Mazda from and trade it in on something else. Loyalty is a two way street. If the maker and the seller are loyal to the customer, I'll be loyal to them. If not, then no. I'm still waiting for Mazda's loyalty to their customers. (I experienced Mazda's bad design when I needed expensive brake replacement and rear caliper replacement at 52,000 miles due to the calipers that did not fully release the parking brake. It was Mazda's mistake, and I paid for it. There is a technical service bulletin for these brakes, but compensation ends with the warranty.)
The bulletin about this issue went out to the dealerships long ago. Had Mazda Canada provided me with information about the cylinder heads possibly cracking, I would have sold the vehicle long before anything happened. But because they did not share this information, up front I am now stuck with a bill and MC offered to pay for parts. Still not good enough in my opinion.
That's absolutely impossible to do in Edmonton ABTurbo head cracking does not happen in the same location as on the NA, however both of them share similar characteristics. Both crack on the back of the head, and also are very close to the exhaust manifold studs in the head. And that's something I've wondered about ever since I first read the description of where the cracking takes place.
It seems logical to me that any weakness resulting from a manufacturing or design issue in that area of the head would be amplified by the 10 foot or so lever, which is the exhaust system that's connected to it. Although there's no way of knowing how much of a factor that might be in the failure cases, I've acquired a habit with the CX-5 of being even more careful than I already was, to avoid all bumps and potholes
Yes. It's too bad manufactures do this. Vowed never to buy another VW after they screwed me over on my wife's Tiguan that rusted out so badly well prior to the 12 year unlimited kilometer "warranty". Now there is the potential for this cyl head issue with the 2018 CX 9 we bought. Love the car but won't but another if it has the problem and the don't cover all costs.
Little over 59K miles on a 2018 Mazda CX-9 stopped yesterday at an parts store to check on my low oil light, dip stick looked low even though just had an oil change. Parts store associate opens the oil cap, and oil is green in color.....Currently at a local shop getting pressure tested. Is it worth fighting Mazda? I am over a year beyond 5 years but under the mileage obviously.
I am not sure about your symptoms. I thought coolant in oil was making it turn chocolate milk brown and thick and frotty, so i would be very cautious at the: “your oil is green statement”
If it is a cracked head i would join the class action. You can try to fight it with mazda. Depending on your local laws you may be a le to get them to cover some parts of the cost, although from a black and white warranty standpoint you are technically not covered anymore.
If it is a cracked head i would join the class action. You can try to fight it with mazda. Depending on your local laws you may be a le to get them to cover some parts of the cost, although from a black and white warranty standpoint you are technically not covered anymore.
Oil that is brown with use will turn milky chocolate brown with coolant in it. Brand new oil might have original green dye (but I know of only one brand of oil that does this) or the new oil might be so light amber than the green coolant actually does tint the oil.
How do people notice this problem? My CX-9 has never overheated and the oil is not milky. I don't smell coolant. But it seems to be losing coolant.
Before a trip I noticed the coolant level was low (well below the L). It seemed to only take a couple pints to get it above the H, but over 300 miles it dropped less than 1" below the H again and I added more (a tad over the H). Now it's less than 1" below the H again after a few days.
Before a trip I noticed the coolant level was low (well below the L). It seemed to only take a couple pints to get it above the H, but over 300 miles it dropped less than 1" below the H again and I added more (a tad over the H). Now it's less than 1" below the H again after a few days.
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- Mazda CX-9 Signature
I think it's normal for the level to fluctuate. If you really are losing coolant, you'll smell it and you'll have a stream of green crust running down the block.
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- Canada
I had similar concerns with coolant fluctuation. Turns out I wasn't being consistent with when I checked the level. If I check it after the car sits overnight, the level stays fairly consistent. It can vary by a small amount, but nothing concerning.
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- Canada
By the way, for anyone still following this thread, in case you weren't aware, Mazda has issued a Customer Service Program (CSP11) to address the issue. Basically, for affected models, you have an extended warranty to cover this specific issue up to 10 years or 120k mi. Those who have already paid out of pocket for this repair can apply for full reimbursement from Mazda.
Great, I bought the Mazda extended warranty specifically for if I had this problem and now they're issuing and extended warranty for it.By the way, for anyone still following this thread, in case you weren't aware, Mazda has issued a Customer Service Program (CSP11) to address the issue. Basically, for affected models, you have an extended warranty to cover this specific issue up to 10 years or 120k mi. Those who have already paid out of pocket for this repair can apply for full reimbursement from Mazda.
I'll check it over a few more days, but for 3 consecutive days the level is about 1/2 - 3/4" lower than the day before a couple hours after its last drive.
Where would I look to see any crust? No smell, no oily milkshake.
Why would it fluctuate? This is literally the first time I've paid attention to the level, so not sure what to expect.
Passenger side rear of engine, look at parts near the rear of the head. Also, look down on the undertray. May be worth taking off and inspecting in all honesty. The undertray is what kept me, and I'm sure countless others from seeing when the problem actually orginated.
