Cpe Full System Dyno Results

chriscecc914 said:
for starters you should make sure your car is running right and take off that VTA BOV on a MAF sensored car!


We've included a feature in the Standback software which allows the user to cut fuel to the injectors after letting off the throttle. This feature helps keep the engine from dumping fuel after venting metered air. Many of our customers like venting their BOV, so this feature will help them do this without blowing out cats or fouling plugs.

Actually when David first drove the car after the Standback and FMIC installation, we goofed and had him drive away on the wrong map, which consequently didn't have the VTA function enabled. As soon as he took off we heard pops and backfires everytime he shifted and we knew something wasn't right. We had him switch to the proper map and those backfires went away, indicating that the fuel cut was doing its job.

The VTA function is a pretty cool feature that we never really advertised about the Standback. In fact, there is one more really neat feature that we haven't told people about, and it's locked away in the controller until we're ready to release it. So to all you current and future Standback owners, we still have one more surprise up our sleeves for you (lol2)


Jordan
 
You should be disapointed, something does not seem right.
However I will be very hard to figure out without a true baseline pull on that dyno.
Everybody needs to keep in mind the the dyno at Altered Atmosphere is, I believe, the dyno that is used for CPE's pulls. As well as the same dyno/tuner that is working on dadadasracercar's engine. It will be interesting to see his results once he is retuned for the fmic they installed.
This is not a bash of CPE, or their proiducts. I have seen the qaulity of these items first hand and have heard countless raves about their customer service. No question, they do it right.
However, even considering the fact that these cars are posting wildly different stock hp numbers, your results seem disapointing.
I have seen a 48hp/56ft/lb peak increase from a tmic, txs tuner, race pipe and bov. No exhaust, no dp and stock turbo. I state this simplt as a comparison, and as further motivation for you to explore a little further.
BTW I think the amount of pulls you received certaintly indicates that Mike gave you the attention needed to tune the car correctly.
And yes, the 1/4 mile will tell alot.
 
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I'm still bummed, just hoping there was something else I could do to find 290 awhp. I'm still gonna work on it. Track times will be docked on Thursday.
 
It is a tough car to squeeze HP out of and all those mods are a hefty price for it. An Evo can get 50 WHP just from a $15 homemade boost controller.
 
i seriously doubt 50 whp......


InlineTwin said:
It is a tough car to squeeze HP out of and all those mods are a hefty price for it. An Evo can get 50 WHP just from a $15 homemade boost controller.
 
Did you have the ECU reflash done prior to doing anything to the car? The reason I ask is I dyno'd BONE STOCK no reflash and got around 220ish hp and 270 tq. I put on a CAI, and 3" TBE and gained a couple HP and less tq, but in between I had the flash done, so whatever they do, they kill some power. The flash did help me, but it also must have taken a bunch of power out.

Those numbers don't seem that great, but look at the friggen curve dude, that says a lot. You should be able to get more out of it. Also, what PSI was the dyno done at? Maybe a stock reworked turbo should be in your future so you're not running out of steam.
 
MUSOM said:
i seriously doubt 50 whp......

Whatever you want to believe. One of my coworkers did just that. I'm sure he will share his dyno results if I ask.

In any case all the upgrades that set you back $2K-$3K for what you got out of it probably indicates this car would get more bang for the buck to replace the turbo first with some kind of stand back. Leave the intercooler and other stuff until it isn't enough power anymore.
 

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