Cp-e Boost Cut Elimantor Flash, Everyone Please Read

[dcs191919]

The only problem is most of us can't give up our ecu for a week

 

[Cue]

so what causes fuel cut or boost cut or what ever?
you have to upgrade your cdfp 1st right?
doesn't the stock turbo become useless after 5500rpm anyways?
seriously, what causes boost and fuel cut and how do you get past the 5500rpm drop off in these cars?

what exactly has cpe done that apparently no one else can?

has cobb figured this out yet?

Fuel/boost cut happens when something in the engine is doing more than the ECU allows it to do. Could be a number of things....

And stock turbo isn't useless after 5500rpm, it's just not as effective.

And CP-E has basically figured out the trigger line to the ECU that tells it to fuel cut, and disabled it.

 

[Alexsered]

Fuel/boost cut happens when something in the engine is doing more than the ECU allows it to do. Could be a number of things....

And stock turbo isn't useless after 5500rpm, it's just not as effective.

And CP-E has basically figured out the trigger line to the ECU that tells it to fuel cut, and disabled it.

yes, but the biggest thing that has triggered the boost cut is when the cold weather comes in and the MAF is out of it's programmed limits. We drive turbo cars and the fact they put a boost cut on cold weather really amazes me, our cars should drive better in the cold, not worse.

Also, COBB has not figured out what in the ECU is triggering the boost cut, there is not "increasing the threshold" like they claim. Christian on the other forums has claimed that it's the fuel pump and that the boost cut will not go away with a better fuel pump, this has been proven wrong and with this new flash on my speed3, he is completely wrong.

 

[RC08MS3]

well, SOMEONE needs to hurry up and figure it out so that CP-e cant screw u in the ass for 500 bucks to eliminate it. It amazes me they would market it that much to there customers, when the customers are the reason why they exist. Cobb, SU, somebody needs to hurry up n step up to the plate and bring some competition to get the price down to a reasonable amount.

 

[Speed3Rookie]

Christain has raised the boost cut limit in the final maps.
I could not run WOT when the temps were below 50*.
Now I am running WOT as low as 30* with zero cut.
30* is the lowest it has been here lately (maybe lower @ 2-3 am) so I haven't had the chance to test in lower temps.
But yes..he has the means to raise the cut limit and I personally like to have some sort of limit to prevent overboost.

 

[Bravnik]

yes, but the biggest thing that has triggered the boost cut is when the cold weather comes in and the MAF is out of it's programmed limits. We drive turbo cars and the fact they put a boost cut on cold weather really amazes me, our cars should drive better in the cold, not worse.

Also, COBB has not figured out what in the ECU is triggering the boost cut, there is not "increasing the threshold" like they claim. Christian on the other forums has claimed that it's the fuel pump and that the boost cut will not go away with a better fuel pump, this has been proven wrong and with this new flash on my speed3, he is completely wrong.

Christian has said that he has raised the threshold on the Cold Cut in all the latest maps. There have been tests done with no cut to prove it.

Down about half way Christian states that he adjusted the threshold higher is all and didn't completely eliminate it like CPE did. Then lower in the post he clearly states that the new 103 Maps have the Cold Cut fix added too them.

Below is a post with a couple tests done for cut. One guys had cut at 10f but not sure if that was a map issue or what. But others that normally had cut now have none.

The post I think you're referring too was in November and Christian looked at the logs. The guy was having fueling issues as his CDFP was dropping and not able to keep up and his car was having issues with it's boost. His WG was at 0 and he was still gaining Boost which it should not have been able to do. Mechanical problems CAN'T be tuned out man.

You really need to have all your information straight before you start running your mouth.

 

[Alexsered]

Christian has said that he has raised the threshold on the Cold Cut in all the latest maps. There have been tests done with no cut to prove it.

Down about half way Christian states that he adjusted the threshold higher is all and didn't completely eliminate it like CPE did. Then lower in the post he clearly states that the new 103 Maps have the Cold Cut fix added too them.

Below is a post with a couple tests done for cut. One guys had cut at 10f but not sure if that was a map issue or what. But others that normally had cut now have none.

The post I think you're referring too was in November and Christian looked at the logs. The guy was having fueling issues as his CDFP was dropping and not able to keep up and his car was having issues with it's boost. His WG was at 0 and he was still gaining Boost which it should not have been able to do. Mechanical problems CAN'T be tuned out man.

You really need to have all your information straight before you start running your mouth.

why do you always come to every cp-e post talking trash? Lol, lets talk about the 30 + HP you had with you fully bolted and AP v103 over stock MS3, wow, how impressive bravnik, I guess you deserve a High Five for lowest hp gains with a tune?

these tests look almost as clear as the tests COBB put out about the full throttle flash, oops, they looked stupid when a completely stock cx-7 saw 20+ hp gains with just the full throttle flash.

All COBB has done has put peramiters to try to avoid boost cut, not to take it out completely, if you are boosting over 17 psi and get a boost cut, say by by to your blown zoom zoom.

 

[Bravnik]

why do you always come to every cp-e post talking trash? Lol, lets talk about the 30 + HP you had with you fully bolted and AP v103 over stock MS3, wow, how impressive bravnik, I guess you deserve a High Five for lowest hp gains with a tune?

these tests look almost as clear as the tests COBB put out about the full throttle flash, oops, they looked stupid when a completely stock cx-7 saw 20+ hp gains with just the full throttle flash.

All COBB has done has put peramiters to try to avoid boost cut, not to take it out completely, if you are boosting over 17 psi and get a boost cut, say by by to your blown zoom zoom.

Because you keep posting s*** you have no clue about man.

You also need to read as well. Maybe that is your problem. The 30WHP gain I got was going from a MBC/Map Clamp pushing 18PSI to the AP. So the AP gave me 30WHP more than the MBC did with the same mods. Nothing wrong with that at all.

I really don't know what your problem is, but you need to just accept the fact that Cobb has a Cold Weather Fix. I don't know what it will take to convince you, but if a person has constant cut due to the cold weather, then gets the new 103 Maps and the cut goes away that pretty much confirms the Fix does it not?

Didn't you have cut, get the CPE Flash and the Cut went away? Are we not to believe you? If we believe you then we have to believe the others who had the cut and now it's gone. The guy above my post had cut and now he does not. Problem fixed. Cobb AP 103 Maps address the Cut Issue.

Raise the Threshold or remove it completely. Does it really matter as long as it is gone? I personally would want it raised to a number higher but still left there as a safety precaution in case something happens and I over boost like crazy. We don't know if there is any risk or not by removing it completely.

You don't go ZOOM-BOOM from boost cut. It is put into place to STOP you from doing damage. If everyone went Boom every time they got cut we would have hundreds of Popped motors all over the place. I would have blown my motor at least 20 times over the last year alone. There are no motors I know of that have ever popped due to the cut. They have all been no or low boost blown motors.

Look it is great that you like the CPE. I'm happy for you. But you really need to stop trying to knock the AP as you have no clue at all what you're talking about man. Just simply post your feelings on the SB and just leave the AP comments out or I will simply continue to correct your false statements.

 

[Alexsered]

Because you keep posting s*** you have no clue about man.

You also need to read as well. Maybe that is your problem. The 30WHP gain I got was going from a MBC/Map Clamp pushing 18PSI to the AP. So the AP gave me 30WHP more than the MBC did with the same mods. Nothing wrong with that at all.

I really don't know what your problem is, but you need to just accept the fact that Cobb has a Cold Weather Fix. I don't know what it will take to convince you, but if a person has constant cut due to the cold weather, then gets the new 103 Maps and the cut goes away that pretty much confirms the Fix does it not?

Didn't you have cut, get the CPE Flash and the Cut went away? Are we not to believe you? If we believe you then we have to believe the others who had the cut and now it's gone. The guy above my post had cut and now he does not. Problem fixed. Cobb AP 103 Maps address the Cut Issue.

Raise the Threshold or remove it completely. Does it really matter as long as it is gone? I personally would want it raised to a number higher but still left there as a safety precaution in case something happens and I over boost like crazy. We don't know if there is any risk or not by removing it completely.

You don't go ZOOM-BOOM from boost cut. It is put into place to STOP you from doing damage. If everyone went Boom every time they got cut we would have hundreds of Popped motors all over the place. I would have blown my motor at least 20 times over the last year alone. There are no motors I know of that have ever popped due to the cut. They have all been no or low boost blown motors.

Look it is great that you like the CPE. I'm happy for you. But you really need to stop trying to knock the AP as you have no clue at all what you're talking about man. Just simply post your feelings on the SB and just leave the AP comments out or I will simply continue to correct your false statements.

first of all, you came into this thread stirring up crap, I just posted that I have eleminated the boost cut from my own car.

Your own words "Raise the Threshold or remove it completely. Does it really matter as long as it is gone?" than you go to state "It is put into place to STOP you from doing damage." so you don't think raising the threshold of the boost cut and not removing it completely is safer? So instead of getting boost cut at 12 psi, supposidly cobb has raised it to 19 psi from what I have read (not sure what the exact number is there). It is no longer a safe for the engine to boost cut at 19 psi, if your engine boost cut at that psi, your engine will knock and your zoom zoom will go boom boom.

I'm just quoting things your are saying, if you raise the threshold, it doesn't get rid of the lurking boost cut, it just raises the extreme of the boost cut, not safe and boost cut must be eliminated completely if you plan on adding performance to the mzr. which includes upping the boost. From talking to the guys at CP-E, they have always been completely honest with me, basically changing perameters means that they can't figure out how to remove the boost cut completely and so they manipulate other perameters.

 

[Alexsered]

also, the HP numbers I am talking about is the dyno number that you posted where you went to a dyno day and stock ms3 were dynoing around 240-250 completely stock numbers, and you went in with bolt ons and tune and ran around 280 hp and palerider made you look kind of dumb trying to compare yourself to a fully bolted car but you really only ran 30 or more HP over stock ms3. FAIL

 

[Bravnik]

Look - I posted a reply to a user asking if Cobb figured this out yet. You said they didn't and you're wrong. They do have a fix. It does not matter how they did it, just as long as it is gone.

Instead of you going Oh sorry I didn't realize that, you want to argue about it. The truth is they DID fix the Fuel Cut in cold weather. Just accept it and move on man.

 

[Alexsered]

Look - I posted a reply to a user asking if Cobb figured this out yet. You said they didn't and you're wrong. They do have a fix. It does not matter how they did it, just as long as it is gone.

Instead of you going Oh sorry I didn't realize that, you want to argue about it. The truth is they DID fix the Fuel Cut in cold weather. Just accept it and move on man.

they never got rid of it, they raised perameters, not safe with a boost cut lurking in the ECU, I justified pretty simply why.

 

[Bravnik]

also, the HP numbers I am talking about is the dyno number that you posted where you went to a dyno day and stock ms3 were dynoing around 240-250 completely stock numbers, and you went in with bolt ons and tune and ran around 280 hp and palerider made you look kind of dumb trying to compare yourself to a fully bolted car but you really only ran 30 or more HP over stock ms3. FAIL

Ah ok. The MS3's there that day put down 230-240ish that day. There was only one stock MS3 but I can't remember what he put down. The others all had some kind of mods. A fully bolted MS3 running an MBC/Map Clamp pushing 19PSI put down 273WHP (Only thing he didn't have was a Mani and BT). He was also running 100Oct as well.

Me with FMIC, Test Pipe, SRi, and AP put down 289WHP. Ah. I don't see the problem there do you? I didn't have my DP installed then and was only running my TurboXS Test Pipe for Exhaust Mods. With the DP I should be over 300WHP now running the same map.

Please show me where you see a problem because I honestly don't see it man. I don't expect to put down numbers like a SB custom tuned would do. But for the Bolt-ons I had at the time I was happy to hit the number I did and I was happy with my AP's performance.

 

[Bravnik]

they never got rid of it, they raised perameters, not safe with a boost cut lurking in the ECU, I justified pretty simply why.

Please explain why it is not safe. Are you a mechanic? Are you an Engineer? What are you basing this feeling off of? Please show me where any engine has ever popped due to this cold weather cut. Again, you have no clue what you're talking about man. You really just need to stop.

 

[Alexsered]

Ah ok. The MS3's there that day put down 230-240ish that day. There was only one stock MS3 but I can't remember what he put down. The others all had some kind of mods. A fully bolted MS3 running an MBC/Map Clamp pushing 19PSI put down 273WHP (Only thing he didn't have was a Mani and BT). He was also running 100Oct as well.

Me with FMIC, Test Pipe, SRi, and AP put down 289WHP. Ah. I don't see the problem there do you? I didn't have my DP installed then and was only running my TurboXS Test Pipe for Exhaust Mods. With the DP I should be over 300WHP now running the same map.

Please show me where you see a problem because I honestly don't see it man. I don't expect to put down numbers like a SB custom tuned would do. But for the Bolt-ons I had at the time I was happy to hit the number I did and I was happy with my AP's performance.

A fully bolted mazdaspeed3 would put down alot more than 273 whp at 19 psi, there was something wrong with that car is what they were trying to tell you when a stock mazdaspeed3 also did a 240-250 whp run with one run pulled out a 270 whp. Since the fully bolted mazdaspeed3 was a fluke, we all had to compare you to the stock mazdaspeed3 that ran that day, and you really only did 30+ whp over that with bolt ons AND a tune. That's lame. And you trying to compare yourself to the fully bolted mazdaspeed3 to make yourself look better makes you look like an ass.

I think that clears it up pretty well.

 

[Alexsered]

Please explain why it is not safe. Are you a mechanic? Are you an Engineer? What are you basing this feeling off of? Please show me where any engine has ever popped due to this cold weather cut. Again, you have no clue what you're talking about man. You really just need to stop.

Palerider actually popped his engine while going up hill in cold weather around 3000-4000rpms in cold weather. I'm a civil engineer, not a mechanic, and my knowledge doesn't revolve around automobile design, so I know civil engineering doesn't carry any weight here.

Do you not understand your own words? When you raise the perameters of the boost cut, that means it is still lurking in the ECU and that means you wont get a boost cut until you reach those HIGHER perameters, higher boost, fuel pressure, etc. A boost cut at those levels will only cause damage to the engine itself.

 

[Speed3Rookie]

When you raise the perameters of the boost cut, that means it is still lurking in the ECU and that means you wont get a boost cut until you reach those HIGHER perameters, higher boost, fuel pressure, etc. A boost cut at those levels will only cause damage to the engine itself.

I'm a little confused on this so hopefully you can assist.

Using the logic stated...what's the difference if the boost cut function is removed altogether than raised?
Thanks

 

[Alexsered]

I'm a little confused on this so hopefully you can assist.

Using the logic stated...what's the difference if the boost cut function is removed altogether than raised?
Thanks

if you happen to engage the boost cute at higher perameters, this can cause seriouse damage. The current boost cut will kick in around 10-15 psi, at 19 psi, you will damage something, maybe not the very first time, but not too many times before something snaps. If you are going WOT and have it spiking to 21 and get a boost cut, man, it will blow.

 

[Speed3Rookie]

if you happen to engage the boost cute at higher perameters, this can cause seriouse damage. The current boost cut will kick in around 10-15 psi, at 19 psi, you will damage something, maybe not the very first time, but not too many times before something snaps. If you are going WOT and have it spiking to 21 and get a boost cut, man, it will blow.

Thanks
So...actually your theory is the "boost cut" function is dangerous and if boost cut is removed altogether there won't be an issue?

 

[MSMS3]

Maybe I'm missing something in the discussion. What about the boost cut itself that hurts an engine? I thought the boost cut was protective, intended to come in at a higher boots level above normal which might also coincide some other potentially harmful parameter such as fuel mixture lbeing too ean, knock, etc.

By my perhaps flawed way of thinking, raising the point where boost cut would happen would mean the engine could be experiencing potential harm from a lean condition or from knock, etc., before boost cut comes in to try to save it, perhaps too late.

Again, maybe I've got this wrong, but if the A/F ratios can be kept in line -- leaned more than stock, but kept from being dangerously lean, if knock is kept in check, etc., then raising the boost cut point to a higher boost would make sense and would produce more power safely.

So, if we are sure we have safe A/F levels, have no dangerous knock, etc. at higher boost levels, then having boost cut delayed and not come in until 18 psi or so would make sense.

Please straighten me out if I've got this wrong.