Correct Oil Filter Part # on 2012 Mazda5

[ukulele]

Greetings all:

My 2012 Mazda5 is at 3K miles and quickly approaching it's first oil change. Problem is, since I got the car I have been researching the correct OEM oil filter and part number but there seems to be a lot of back-and-forth about which one is the right one.

I could call the dealer(s) and ask their parts people over the phone, but I figured I'd get the same advice (or better) from some of you guys on here, I know a lot of you have had your 5's since Jan 2012 so you probably know.

I have narrowed it down to either: LF05-14-302A or LF05-14-302B.

I don't know what the last letter designates (maybe an improvement?) but was wondering if these numbers are correct. Maybe someone out there knows a website I can get a case for cheap including the plug washers. I have a dealer out in Avondale, AZ that is will sell me a case of 10 "302B" for $63.30 + $9.95 shipping for a total of $73.25 (shipping from AZ to NJ). Each filter comes to $6.33 each. This is through eBay. I usually buy my oil filters in bulk on eBay.

When I first got the 5 and it was warmer, I raised it up on ramps and tried looking at the filter that's on there but with the splash shield it was almost impossible to read the numbers. The filter that is on there from factory is a black filter with white letters "FoMoCo". I can't see the part number.

Would also be cool if I can get the proper size wrench for the filters, though in my experience, when it's time to remove those spin-on filters, especially the factory ones that came with the car, sometimes you have to grab it with channel locks or some other grabbing/locking tool, one time I had completely mangled a used oil filter because it just would not come off, even with the wrench, I literally crushed it like a can of soda LoL I was like WTF did they use liquid nails on this mo' fo'??

Thanks in advance.

 

[torquelover]

No idea on the filter, but I use a rubber strap wrench to remove pesky oil filters, does a darn good job as long as you have access to it. Looks like this:

I used to have to use this on the horrid housing with cartridge filter on the Mazda/Ford 2.3 in a previous vehicle. Thankfully looks like they are getting away from those and going back to the spin-on filter that is less prone to user error and has a lot more filtering surface area.

I have had good luck with Ford Motorcraft filters in the past. Might want to see if the Mazda and Motorcraft are the same thing, just different packaging/labeling. Might be a lot cheaper.

 

[ukulele]

Thanks for the response, torque.

I've tried regular band-type filter wrenches in the past with mixed results, sometimes they work, sometimes they slip, and a lot of the times there's barely enough room to get one in in the first place. The Mazda5 looks like a pain in the ass if you don't have the exact socket-type wrench because there is not much room around the filter with the under panel in the way. Even socket wrenches will slip so I think I'm going to let my mechanic handle the first oil change, not to mention with the windchill it feels like 20 deg F, I'm not too excited about changing oil until the spring. Last night as I walked my dog, the windchill was so bad, any remaining slush from the daytime had literally turned to GLASS. I felt like I was on National Geographic Explorer. I hate the cold, love love LOVE the heat anytime.

Anyhow, I called around to like five or six different Mazda dealer service departments around the tri-state (PA-NJ-NY), they all told me the same thing, that the LF05-14-302B replaces the 302A. They don't know what the change entails, but if you were to bring in a Mazda5 into a dealer service dept. they are supposed to use a LF05-14-302B.

If anyone out there knows what the difference is please let us know! I'm curious. Maybe it has nothing to do with the design and the part # was changed because they are now made in a different factory or different country??

I'm on the hunt for a box of 10 of these now.

 

[torquelover]

You still have the original filter? Would be nice to see some side by side pics. Also some cut open side by side with the new one you just put in after the next oil change. I checked BITOG and some MS3 forums for more info but no dice.

 

[ukulele]

You still have the original filter? Would be nice to see some side by side pics. Also some cut open side by side with the new one you just put in after the next oil change. I checked BITOG and some MS3 forums for more info but no dice.

I'm already on it! (detect) I was running late Monday, not to mention my wife is going to have to be induced this week at the hospital because "Sean" is refusing to come out willingly..... so I had my buddy change out the oil in his shop, sure enough, the original black filter from factory is bigger. Since I normally do the change myself when it's humanely warm outside (April-October) I gave him the 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 and the Mazda LF05-14-302B (I bought a case at the same dealer that warrantied my Toyos, while I was waiting for them to balance the wheels, I headed down to parts and they brought the price of each filter from $8.14 to $7 since I bought the factory case of 12, adding NJ sales tax, it came to pretty much the same had I bought them online and paid shipping, and I've been checking online for these filters for at least a month so I know).

I told him, "Ed, you may want to check the dipstick before you add the whole 5 quarts in, I have a feeling it will take less." Sure enough, though the manual calls for something like 5.25 quarts (with filter) or something like that, we added about 4.75 quarts, and it was full to the top. Like an idiot, I left the old filter at the shop, but I will be picking it up tomorrow and probably draining and slicing it open, I want to see what the big deal is, so look for picks next week. I will be sacrificing one of my 302B's for this experiment. My buddy said, "You've got OCD" when I told him I was going to dissect the old filter. Maybe he's right. (boom06)

Funny thing, now that I have my new Toyos and, for the most part, it's a smooth ride now, and the fact that I just changed my oil, I'm getting at minimum 2 MPG more in combined driving. That's crazy. Was it the tires? Or the oil?? Probably both. I did the change at 3700 now I wish I changed it at 2000 or 1500, thinking that my engine was going thru all that hard friction makes me sick (blarf) LoL. Mobile 1 never turned that bad for me with 3700 miles, makes me wonder what crap they use at the factory.

 

[torquelover]

Not able to wait until the next oil change so you don't have to sacrifice a new filter? My dealer uses Castrol Syntec 0W20. No noticeable difference from factory fill. Do notice the tires getting louder and louder though.

 

[ukulele]

Not able to wait until the next oil change so you don't have to sacrifice a new filter? My dealer uses Castrol Syntec 0W20. No noticeable difference from factory fill. Do notice the tires getting louder and louder though.

I can wait till next change but it's a lot cleaner to open a new filter vs. one that is used, as it is the used one will make a mess.... I don't like messes. I like Castrol and Pennzoil, I like any mid-level engine oil, I just prefer Mobile 1 because like I said I've used it for years with great results. Anything but Supertech or whatever that Walmart brand is called, I've heard that stuff is garbage. At about $1-$2/quart you get what you pay for. All engine oils are formulated to meet minimum operating standards, if they weren't then you wouldn't be able to pour it into your crankcase, but it's the additives that make the oil perform better under certain conditions. Cheapie oils like supertech are fine if you intend to start your engine and let it idle, but under stresses of real-world driving I can't imagine that oil lubricates well. Great for leased cars though!! (lol2)

I've filled up with Mobile 1 so many times in several of my previous cars, at 3700 miles I can't recall the oil being so dark and smelling so much of gasoline so soon, is my point. Keep in mind, when I drive a new car I really put the "break" in "break-in period." Wait you still have the Toyo Proxes A18s?? You should sell them as soon as you can, I'm getting rid of mine + the wheels and getting MS3 wheels, but buying them one at a time, I can't afford 4 at the same time. You saw Orangutan's Mazda5 right?? It's sick!! 18's belong on this car.

The other morning I was driving to get coffee, there was a GTI driver in front of me with a lead foot. He didn't know that he would be tailed by a Mazda5 driver with a lead foot of his own. I was able to keep up but just barely, and I'm assuming he didn't really open it up, but since I've never driven a GTI it's hard to tell. Was fun tho. I was sad to see him make a left turn and I had to go straight! (gah) Was early morning hardly anyone on the road.

 

[fitzski]

I have my OEM first fill filter still at home; I'll check the p/n and can take some measurements if it's a 302A.

FWIW, I replaced with a Purolator PureOne PL10241... though you could easily go with the taller PL20195.

(See my comments here.)

 

[fitzski]

Just FYI... since you mentioned this, above:

...I headed down to parts and they brought the price of each filter from $8.14 to $7 since I bought the factory case of 12, adding NJ sales tax, it came to pretty much the same had I bought them online and paid shipping, and I've been checking online for these filters for at least a month so I know).

...and I just noticed that you indicated this in another thread some time ago:

I have heard the same about the Pure One filters. They aren't cheap.

...I thought I would let you know that I had picked up 4 PureOne (PL10241) filters for a total of US$24.57 at Advanced Auto Parts (in Florida), $6.25/ea, all-in... so about the same, if not cheaper, than OEM.

As mentioned, however, knowing what I know now, I would have gotten the taller PL20195 instead.

 

[torquelover]

For those buying from Advance Auto, I find the code p20 usually gets me 20% off. Order online with code, print out receipt, hop in car and go pick it up.

 

[Silentnoise713]

FYI, +'12 uses the same filter as the '09-'10 spin on canister filters.


Mazda OEM: LF10-14-302A
AutoExtra 618-51516
Bosch 3330
Fram PH 3614
Fram TG 3614
Fram XG 3614
K&N HP-1002
Mobil 1 M1-102
STP S3614
Super Tech 3614
Royal Purple 10-2835
Purolator PL10241
Purolator L10241
Wix 51348
NAPA FIL 1348
ValueCraft V3614

Any filter meeting the following will fit. The flow rate and filter media is an issue with quality.
Thread size= -16
Gasket diameter= OD: 2.734, ID: 2.430, Thick: 0.226 (over VERY close to it)
Height= 3.404 or greater, as long as it fits and does not contact engine splash guard.
Diameter= 2.921 or greater, as long as it fits and does not contact the oil pan


I need to make a slight mod to the filter base but I'll be trying out the Big daddy filter (1 quart) next oil change. There's also a 2 quart version if anyone wants to try but I don't think there's enough ground clearance as the 1 quart seems to be already pushing it clearance wise.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/img0469qx.jpg/

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...rt-from-cartridge-to-canister-filter-–-Mazda5

 

[ukulele]

Just FYI... since you mentioned this, above:


...and I just noticed that you indicated this in another thread some time ago:


...I thought I would let you know that I had picked up 4 PureOne (PL10241) filters for a total of US$24.57 at Advanced Auto Parts (in Florida), $6.25/ea, all-in... so about the same, if not cheaper, than OEM.

As mentioned, however, knowing what I know now, I would have gotten the taller PL20195 instead.

To me more than $6 for an oil filter is a lot of money, but of course depends on the application, there's the baseline I should have included previously. I buy OEM not because its better necessarily but because of flow rate. Cold starts are a b****. I didn't engineer the engine so I rely on what the engineer says is best.

 

[eyeballs]

The size of the OEM filters I get from the parts counter is identical to the original filter I took off, only it was a different color. 2-3 MPG improvement after that first oil change.

Original filter was definately on tight, but came off with some elbow grease and a universal filter wrench. I wonder why they feel the filter needs to be on that tight.

 

[ukulele]

The size of the OEM filters I get from the parts counter is identical to the original filter I took off, only it was a different color. 2-3 MPG improvement after that first oil change.

Original filter was definately on tight, but came off with some elbow grease and a universal filter wrench. I wonder why they feel the filter needs to be on that tight.

Ask the robot that puts it there... LoL Maybe it's not a person but a robot that is programmed to apply so many ft/lbs. Might be a human, I have no idea. If it is a human, they shouldn't have He-Man working the oil filter line.

On my 2008 Yaris, the first oil change was a pain in the ass, I almost gave up and thought about towing the car to my buddy's garage. I mangled it like a soda can but it came off finally, after that, every oil change was easy, I only hand-tightened it and that was enough.

You sure you get the EXACT SAME FILTER from your parts counter?? Mazda wants all dealers to use LF05-14-302B (or 302A if they have them left over). It's smaller and white, without the "FoMoCo" printed on the side. I don't really attribute my better MPGs to the filter, I attribute it more to the oil.