First 2012 oil change?

[90210]

^^^

We have 4 Miatas and this Mazda 5 in our garage, along with some other toys. For the Mazdas I have used the OEM filters since 1990, and have had never had an issue. Granted most of my Miatas are garage queens, I have one with 317K miles on it (I put all the miles), and it doesn't leak or burn any oil.

 

[ukulele]

For anyone who does their own oil changes, what brand/level oil filter have you been running in your Mazda? For 4 years I've been doing my own oil changes on both my wife's 2008 Mazda 5 and the 2004 Corolla I had before picking up my new 2012 Mazda 5 in October. We don't tend to put a huge number of miles on our cars, maybe 10K or 11K per year so I change the oil on both in the spring and again in the fall. I have been running either Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge (whichever was on-sale) in both of these cars without incident and have accompanied it with a Purolator PureOne oil filter. I guess the main reason for getting this Purolator filter was that it was listed as the "premium" filter in the reference guide they have available at Advance Auto Parts so you know what fits your vehicle. Does anyone have a filter they swear by?

I always use the OEM filter for whichever the make/model is. Many years ago, I owned a 2005 Chrysler T&C with the 3.3L that, if I'm not mistaken, Chrysler finally retired. Good little engine, just not a lot of power and it was an iron block so it was heavy. I was running Mobile 1 (as I always do) with the proper grade, I believe it was 5W-XX or 10W-XX something like that. Anyway, I had run out of OEM Mopar filters and I went over to the auto store and bought like a Purolator filter. After changing the oil, I noticed the oil foaming on the dipstick, just bubbles like I've never seen them before (using the same exact oil). I immediately changed the oil again, same oil, same brand, same grade, but used a Mopar filter. The foaming went away. Point is, maybe the Purolator was defective, or, there is something called flow-rate, one of the several characteristics of oil filters, and my guess is the flow was restricted, creating bubbles in the system. I could be wrong, but there really isn't any other explanation. Since then I use only OEM filters, they are designed with the proper flow rate for your internal engine components. Remember that oil has to reach the top in time to lubricate the valve-train on down.

 

[eyeballs]

Until the warranty runs out, I use OEM Mazda Synth 0W-20 and the OEM filter. I get the oil by the case and the guy behind the counter usually gives me a good deal.

Purolator Pure One filters are supposedly one of the best commonly available, with the Mobil1 not far behind.

 

[metalfab]

Via the dealer; free oil changes and filters for as long as I owner the 5.

 

[ukulele]

Until the warranty runs out, I use OEM Mazda Synth 0W-20 and the OEM filter. I get the oil by the case and the guy behind the counter usually gives me a good deal.

Purolator Pure One filters are supposedly one of the best commonly available, with the Mobil1 not far behind.

I have heard the same about the Pure One filters. They aren't cheap.

 

[Nybiomed]

They seem pretty cheap to me...those K&Ns, M1's and Bosch's are over $12 each!

I have heard the same about the Pure One filters. They aren't cheap.

Pure 1's run under $5 with the A124 code from Advance Auto Parts- I just picked up 3 today @4.80ea +tax, that's cheap enough IMHO. I got the larger PL20195 and will be doing my first oil change at 3k miles then every 8k afterwards. Picked up a case of the Castrol Edge Titanium 0W20 as they are B1G1 free until the end of the month too, should be good for the rest of the year!

BTW, it took me a few minutes to cross-reference the Pure1 PL20195 to the Extended Mobil1 M1-209 filters Amazon is selling for $8.00. Seems it's the stock filter to the 2000 Ford Ranger with the 3.0l engine, It's here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Free shipping to the luckier states that are not collecting state tax from Amazon, I'm jealous as NY is collecting the tax- but my workaround is having most things shipped to my Mom's in NJ and we seem to be able to get together monthly....

 

[ukulele]

Pure 1's run under $5 with the A124 code from Advance Auto Parts- I just picked up 3 today @4.80ea +tax, that's cheap enough IMHO. I got the larger PL20195 and will be doing my first oil change at 3k miles then every 8k afterwards. Picked up a case of the Castrol Edge Titanium 0W20 as they are B1G1 free until the end of the month too, should be good for the rest of the year!

OK, I just searched for "PL20195" on advanceautoparts.com, all the PureOne filters are $6.99 near my zip code. That's before the checkout code, so if you want to include coupons/deals, then I'm sure you can get just about anything cheaper that way. $7 for an oil filter is not cheap for me considering this is a 4 cyl engine, either way, my Mazda OEM's cost $7 each which I thought was high, I used to buy oil filters for my old 2006 Toyota Sienna, 3.3L on eBay, each filter would come to not even $6 including shipping. Those were OEM as well. Larger displacement too than the Mazda5's 2.5L.

 

[DynoBunny]

I've been running Mobil 1 0w-40 and Wix filters for quite some time now. Then engine feels a lot smoother after switching from the 0w-20. I think that stuff is way too thin for my kind of driving and I'll gladly deal with whatever loss of mpg in return.

 

[ukulele]

I've been running Mobil 1 0w-40 and Wix filters for quite some time now. Then engine feels a lot smoother after switching from the 0w-20. I think that stuff is way too thin for my kind of driving and I'll gladly deal with whatever loss of mpg in return.

I would see no problem running 0W-30 or 40 in the summer months, and 0W-20 in the winter, depending on how cold your climate is exactly. I think that the first # is the most important part of a multi-grade anyway.