Corksport SRI and check engine light

Well I live in Vancouver, so it's rather humid. This all also started to happen after a filled up, so I'm also wondering if I got a fuel below or above grade. Pretty sure it was regular. I'm going to hit Canadian Tire tomorrow they have this on sale:
OBDII Code READER Think I'll just reset the error code, and gap the plugs to .047 as suggested.
Is the Mazda II OBDII compliant? Going to assume it is.

Thanks for all the info, this has been an excellent resource!
Cheers,
Shawn

The Mazda 2 has a CAN supported OBDII system. (CAN=Controller Area Network). A cheaper scan tool won't connect with the computer. That reader looks like it is CAN supported.
 
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Hi cclngthr,

Here's something I've been scratching my head over. I've got about 11,000 miles on the car and I've had about 6 occurences of extreme hesitation when trying to accelerate quickly (usually at the worst possible times).

At first I thought that it might have been an OE (Operator Error) and that my foot got caught on the corner of the brake pedal, however when it happened today, that was not an issue. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to it except the attempt to accelerate.

No codes tossed. Engine is stock, exhaust is stock, intake is stock, stock, stock, stock. Really. Weather was average with no big changes. Shell gasoline from a quality station.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
John
 
Hey Guys,

So, got me a OBDII reader, erased the errors, change the plugs. All is good on that end. Still had the noise from the CS crankshaft pulley. Took that off, and what do you know there is play between the main part and the black ring around it. Really don't know what the componenets are called. Here are some pics:
Gap is closed
pully_closed.jpg


Gap is open:
pully_open.jpg


So the clicking sound is now gone with the stock pully back. Now it's time to fire off an email to Corksport and hope it gets replaced.
Cheers,
Shawn
 
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Geez Shawn, you're becoming a Mechanic. Good for you.

I looked at the Corksport site and the appear to be 3 circles on the back of the toothed timing gear. Are there screws to hold the gear to the back of the pulley? If so, you could just re-do them with a drop of Loctite to hold them in place.

Keep us posted.

John
 
Far from a machanic, but working on it :D.
Yeah there are three screws but they've been welded, so I don't think there is really any other option.
 
Hi cclngthr,

Here's something I've been scratching my head over. I've got about 11,000 miles on the car and I've had about 6 occurences of extreme hesitation when trying to accelerate quickly (usually at the worst possible times).

At first I thought that it might have been an OE (Operator Error) and that my foot got caught on the corner of the brake pedal, however when it happened today, that was not an issue. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to it except the attempt to accelerate.

No codes tossed. Engine is stock, exhaust is stock, intake is stock, stock, stock, stock. Really. Weather was average with no big changes. Shell gasoline from a quality station.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
John

The hesitation is from the plugs, or coil boots not sending the spark at the time it is supposed to from an idle condition. Check your plug coil boots by looking at the boot which goes onto the plug. Any discoloration means the plug boots are bad. Another thing to check is the plugs. Should be gray to light brown in color. I have noticed that Mazda tends to use a copper plug often and changing them to an iridium plug is better.
 
Hi Shawn,

"Yeah there are three screws but they've been welded".......... Oh well, no re-tightening those. It sounds like Corksport needs to change something in production. From what I've seen they are a good company. Keep us posted as to their response.

Hi cclngthr,

Thanks for the input. I'll try a new set of plugs. Examine the boots and see how they look. Would a coating of dielectric grease help anything?

Much appreciated,
John
 
Hi Shawn,

"Yeah there are three screws but they've been welded".......... Oh well, no re-tightening those. It sounds like Corksport needs to change something in production. From what I've seen they are a good company. Keep us posted as to their response.

Hi cclngthr,

Thanks for the input. I'll try a new set of plugs. Examine the boots and see how they look. Would a coating of dielectric grease help anything?

Much appreciated,
John

Get the good kind, also pay attention to the gaps. I have heard of 2 different gaps, you might want to consult with a dealer about the proper gap.
 
"consult with a dealer" The problem is finding someone at a dealership who knows what they are doing and is permitted to talk with you.

Not so easy at times.<LOL>

By "gap", I'm assuming plug gap.

UPDATE:Per the owner's manual the plugs are iridium, so I'll just re-gap.

The # for the plugs is probably a MAZDA part no#. BOOOO ! ! !

I found a cross-over chart in Japan for Nippondenso and they recommend a SK16PR-E13 as a match for the OEM plug. Not sure if that is common here.

Thanks again,
John
 
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*Update
Just talked with Corksport, they're having a new batch of pully's made. I guess this batch may have had an issue.
Either way this is being warrantied and they're covering all shipping. So, CS has stepped up, which is awsome.Great company.

Cheers,
Shawn
 
"consult with a dealer" The problem is finding someone at a dealership who knows what they are doing and is permitted to talk with you.

Not so easy at times.<LOL>

By "gap", I'm assuming plug gap.

UPDATE:Per the owner's manual the plugs are iridium, so I'll just re-gap.

The # for the plugs is probably a MAZDA part no#. BOOOO ! ! !

I found a cross-over chart in Japan for Nippondenso and they recommend a SK16PR-E13 as a match for the OEM plug. Not sure if that is common here.

Thanks again,
John

That part number references to a Denso plug. Gap does mean plug gap.

I talked to Scott at South Tacoma Mazda and he said that the plug gap should be set between .047-.052. He also mentioned that he has seen random misfires if the plugs are higher than .049. My recommendation is use a .046 to .048 gap.
 
We recently became aware of a few incidents where the Lightweight Crankshaft Pulleys trigger ring had become loose or come off. We have determined the cause to be a batch that received improper anodization and have taken steps to identify anyone who purchased in this batch order. We are directly contacting anyone who has been affected to work with them on replacement or return of the defective pulley.
We are confident in the design of our product. During design and validation, our parts were properly anodized and we thoroughly tested them and installed them on multiple cars for over 8 months without issue.
The trust you have placed in the CorkSport brand is very important to us. We want you to know that we fully understand and share your concerns and are dedicated to safeguarding you and your vehicle against any damage. We are focusing on three primary objectives:
1. Taking care of our customers
2. Recovering the pulleys subject to recall
3. Conducting a thorough audit of our processes and procedures to prevent it from happening again
We are making progress in all three objectives and deeply appreciate your patience and loyalty during this time.
-Derrick
 
"1. Taking care of our customers
2. Recovering the pulleys subject to recall
3. Conducting a thorough audit of our processes and procedures to prevent it from happening again
We are making progress in all three objectives and deeply appreciate your patience and loyalty during this time."

Apparently Corksport has not adopted BP's business model....... Good for them! And us..... Thanks Derrick!
 
Sparking Plugs

From a German Mazda 2 web site:

Ich hab mich mal schlau gemacht was Z�ndkerzen f�r den Mazda 2 DE angeht, bin auf ein haufen unlesbare Seiten gelandet (Japanisch/Chinesisch) hab auch diese weitgehend durchwhlt und folgender Bericht ist entstanden:

!!! Alle Angaben ohne Gew�hr !!!

DENSO IRIDIUM POWER IK20 Diese Kerzen sollten am besten beschaffbar sein auf den Deutschen Markt :) Und sollen hervorragend geeignet sein...

DENSO SK16PR-E13 Schwer zu bekommen. Angeblich sollen diese Kerzen die gleichen wie Original "MAZDA ZJY6 18 110" sein, nur mit anderer Aufschrift!

MAZDA ZJY6 18 110 Original von Mazda, bekommt man sie am schnellsten wahrscheinlich, oder einen Mazda-Hndler

NGK IFR5E13 Schwer zu bekommen. Am besten bei NGK selber anfragen!

The first two are available on Amazon. The fourth one doesnt appear to available domestically, however IFR5E11 is. In NGK terminology, the 11 means a gap of 1.1 mm or .044". The 13 would have a gap of .062". My thought is that the 11 might be the plug to get. (rei)

John
 
From a German Mazda 2 web site:

Ich hab mich mal schlau gemacht was Z�ndkerzen f�r den Mazda 2 DE angeht, bin auf ein haufen unlesbare Seiten gelandet (Japanisch/Chinesisch) hab auch diese weitgehend durchwhlt und folgender Bericht ist entstanden:

!!! Alle Angaben ohne Gew�hr !!!

DENSO IRIDIUM POWER IK20 Diese Kerzen sollten am besten beschaffbar sein auf den Deutschen Markt :) Und sollen hervorragend geeignet sein...

DENSO SK16PR-E13 Schwer zu bekommen. Angeblich sollen diese Kerzen die gleichen wie Original "MAZDA ZJY6 18 110" sein, nur mit anderer Aufschrift!

MAZDA ZJY6 18 110 Original von Mazda, bekommt man sie am schnellsten wahrscheinlich, oder einen Mazda-Hndler

NGK IFR5E13 Schwer zu bekommen. Am besten bei NGK selber anfragen!

The first two are available on Amazon. The fourth one doesnt appear to available domestically, however IFR5E11 is. In NGK terminology, the 11 means a gap of 1.1 mm or .044". The 13 would have a gap of .062". My thought is that the 11 might be the plug to get. (rei)

John

Scott at STM said the gap should be between 1.1mm and 1.3mm, which translates to a USA spec of .047-.052.
 
Same here. Just got my call this afternoon. They're going to cover my install costs as well. Very solid service.

*Update
Just talked with Corksport, they're having a new batch of pully's made. I guess this batch may have had an issue.
Either way this is being warrantied and they're covering all shipping. So, CS has stepped up, which is awsome.Great company.

Cheers,
Shawn
 
"Scott at STM said the gap should be between 1.1mm and 1.3mm, which translates to a USA spec of .047-.052. "

Thanks cclngthr,

Addition error on my part. The '13' would have a gap of .052, not .062. Of course, .052 is on the max of the range. I couldn't find the NGK available here in the '13' gap, so,,,,,,, Is the Denso nomenclature the same as the NGK in terms of gap? If so, they would be gapped on the wide side from the factory, too.

Take the '11' gap and spread it a couple thou to .048? Probably wouldn't take long for a .044 to widen out to .048 anyway. Never saw the gap get smaller.

Well, I did see it get smaller in one racing motor, but that was because the top of the connecting rod smacked it........ (Wasn't the piston in the way? No, not anymore.....)

John
 
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"Scott at STM said the gap should be between 1.1mm and 1.3mm, which translates to a USA spec of .047-.052. "

Thanks cclngthr,

Addition error on my part. The '13' would have a gap of .052, not .062. Of course, .052 is on the max of the range. I couldn't find the NGK available here in the '13' gap, so,,,,,,, Is the Denso nomenclature the same as the NGK in terms of gap? If so, they would be gapped on the wide side from the factory, too.

Take the '11' gap and spread it a couple thou to .048? Probably wouldn't take long for a .044 to widen out to .048 anyway. Never saw the gap get smaller.

Well, I did see it get smaller in one racing motor, but that was because the top of the connecting rod smacked it........ (Wasn't the piston in the way? No, not anymore.....)

John

NGK does not have a plug that fits the MZ2 yet. Was on the phone with them this morning and they told me one is in R&D, but it should be available by the end of the year.
 
Cool. Thanks for doing that!

Glad to see that NGK doesn't just pull something off of the shelf. As far as I can tell NGK and Denso are the best out there.

John
 
Cool. Thanks for doing that!

Glad to see that NGK doesn't just pull something off of the shelf. As far as I can tell NGK and Denso are the best out there.

John

At my shop, which we specialize in tuning cars, we use NGK for most foreign/asian cars because we notice they don't foul as easy. Some cars perfer a specific brand. Chryslers will only run well on Champion plugs. Autolight plugs we stay away from because they foul so easy.
 

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