Corksport DP fitment issues??

[Maz2001MP]

Does anyone have fitment issues with the Corksport S/J pipe combo?? The bottom stud on the turbo exhaust housing is hitting the downpipe which isnt allowing it to sit flush on the turbo. Does anyone else have this problem???

Thanks!

 

[Kansei]

I had to trim one of the studs on my turbo outlet to get it to fit on.. and then I still am unable to get it bolted down enough >_<

what sort of tool did you use to get in there??

 

[Black_Protege_5]

You have to get a hammer and smack it in a little for clearance. And you can use just an open-close to tighten but you still have to be patient.

 

[orng1]

Yeah it's a tight fit but be patient and it will fit, I didn't have too much trouble just with the turbo off the car with an open end and it all went well.

 

[Maz2001MP]

I am just going to have to cut the stud down a little. I tried to bang it down a little to allow the flange to sit flush. It just doesnt seem to be working

 

[Kansei]

yeah you don't have to trim much off the stud, just hit it with a dremel.

You're working on your turbo project at the same time I am haha.

 

[03MSP]

Mine went on pretty easy but I know the stud you are talking about, pretty tight fit. I'm sure grinding a bit off won't hurt it any, just make sure you have enough to get the full length of the nut screwed on.

 

[Kansei]

I can't for the life of me figure out how to bolt up my s-pipe.. that problem stud/nut SUCKS..

what hardware are you guys using.. I have the stock nuts but bought some other nuts today at a fastener store .. they're thinner than the stock ones.. I just can't get that last one bolted down

 

[03MSP]

I had no special tools, just an open end wrench for that nut. It's possible that Corksport didn't dent that part of the S-pipe in enough, only thing I can think of...can you take a picture of it?

 

[Kansei]

I actually managed to do it. Did you use the OEM nuts when you did yours? The flare on the OEM nut was hitting one of the welds and preventing the nut from going on more.

I used some non-oem grade 8 (well the metric equivalent) locking nuts, M8x1.25. they use a 13mm wrench instead of the stock 12mm, but without the flare on them they are much thinner and provided the needed clearance.

 

[Maz2001MP]

Well my problem isnt even the damn nut. The stud is just too long and hits the inner portion of the downpipe. This doesnt allow the DP to mount flush to the flange and I am sure will cause some major exhaust leak. Im still going to grind down the stud just a little. I hope the threads will be ok after i am done!

 

[Kansei]

oh yeah I forgot to mention that I trimmed the stud. If you are using the oem nuts you'll probably run into the problem with the flare hitting the welds though.

You barely have to trim the stud at all to get it to fit.

 

[Kansei]

Hmm does anyone else have trouble with the downpipe being scary close to the thermostat housing and lower radiator hose?

 

[03MSP]

Hmm does anyone else have trouble with the downpipe being scary close to the thermostat housing and lower radiator hose?

Nope (shrug)

**Take pictures!

 

[CitizenPro]

I may be installing mine next weekend, guess i have some modifying to look forward too.....

 

[Kansei]

I may be installing mine next weekend, guess i have some modifying to look forward too.....

basically just trimming one stud on the turbine exit and not using the stock nuts to bolt it down. I think the thermostat issue was just because my manifold wasn't laying flat up against the block at all. If it wasn't 3am (just got home) I would hang the manifold off the block right now (no wastegate actuator on) and see how the fitment looks..

 

[CitizenPro]

Yeah, i read not to use the flared nuts. Ill grab a few different ones at my shop and see what fits best.

 

[matthew_talbott]

About the lower radiator hose

My lower radiator hose was almost burned through when I pulled my setup apart, and a new one from the dealership cost me 60$, but it is a really nice silicone piece. My solution was to wrap the hose with heat-sheilding aluminum coated fiberglass, hopefully this works. If you look, the downpipe runs about 6cm away from the radiator hose just below the water neck. The stock hose is about 3 layers thick, and after 36k miles, only one layer had begun to bubble, but better safe than sorry, and 60$ is cheap insurance in comparison to being broken down next to I-5. If you are actually going to argue, yes, the hose will never actually burn through, because the water will always keep the temperature down enough to prevent that, but the heat will accelerate the aging of the silicone.
I am a fortified smiley
(peep)

 

[Kansei]

So that's why the MSP hose costs so much more.. crap. I just bought the normal P5 one and it's rubber.