coilpack problems. advice.

[Flogrown]

so my CEL has been on an the code is coming up as a misfire in cylinder 3. after diag it was determined to be the coilpack. while driving at higher rpms under boost you can feel the misfire bog the cycle so to speak. so no big deal I go to advance get 2 new coilpacks for 40 a piece, new ngk wires, and new plugs all which are specified oem in their computer for the car 2003 mazdaspeed protg. I changed everything out and started the car and drove it for a couple minutes the misfire was gone and she ran smooth, so i then parked her for the rest of the night. well the next morning I walk out to start the car and go get my day started and the car would not fire she would just crank over. I checked the connection all good pulled the coilpacks and wires checked the plugs " 2 which were now black did these coil packs burn out"? so i re installed everything. she then fired up running on maybe 2 cylinders, like a complete turd and you could smell raw fuel not burning in the cylinders. I then put my old coil packs back on and my old plugs back in and the car fired right up perfect idle just as it has been. drive to advance to return the pos coilpacks and the 3rd cylinder is still misfiring which leaves me in a snag I need new coil packs, why would those oem spec coilpacks not work or fire the cylinders? the coilpack direct plug tube did not seem to seat all the way done maybe off by a few cm. since I have my old ones in and I need new ones which coilpacks have you guys used that you have not had any problems with that can be bought at one of the local stores like napa, autozone, or advance? my old coilpacks are HANSHIN's Japanese made only place I can find them is on amazon, the ones I bought at advance were intermotor or some s***, made from some bum **** country by some guy smoking meth.

 

[hornsfan10609]

All the coils you get will be refurbished, I have never had any problems with aftermarket coil packs. Are the plugs gapped properly? They should be at .028" regardless of what the auto parts store's computers say.

 

[Preferio]

They should be at .028" regardless of what the auto parts' stores computers say.

Or AllData, Motors and Chilton...

Seriously, a few years ago when I was fighting misfires that would come back every few days after all new ignition components and only finally someone bringing it up did I finally correct my problem. It pissed me off so bad.

 

[Flogrown]

as far as I know the new plugs I got were 4 prong platinums and pre gapped for the vehicle. but I dismissed this case when I put my old plugs back in with the new coils and nothing. my old coils with my plugs work, the the new coil packs with old plugs still did not fire. maybe I was just that lucky guy who got the defected parts.

 

[BOOSTR]

the "pre-gap" is most likely well above the 0.028-0.031 specified range. Stick with some NGK V powers and forget about the more expensive plugs. I recently got a defective set of NGK wires from Advanced and took them back. Anything is possible when dealing with mass production.

 

[Preferio]

He's right, definitely don't go with those +4's... Use V-Power NGK's. And set the gap to the specified gap.

 

[Flogrown]

I got ngk in now "1 step colder, copper" same I had before, I am boostin 12psi, new wires, but back to the coil pack issue, the ones from all the stores around here wont work. im just s*** out of luck. every new coilpack I put on for cylinder 2/3 does not work. it will work when the engine is hot but the next morning on a cold start im having to throw the old ones back on to get it started. The car I have is Canadian, is there any difference in oem specs for the coilpacks from us, to the Canada version of the vehicle? that would be causing this ridiculous issue? or should I just got to the 1.8 coil conversion? Im nervous to buy the actual oem from mazda cause they are coming in at a $147 a piece, and I would be pissed if they did the same thing as all the new ones. cause the dealer is a lot harder to return s*** to.

 

[Flogrown]

also the plugs are gapped to .028. stupid problem I am having. I texted the dude I bought the car from and he said he had the same issue the car wont run on aftermarket coils even if they are oem specified. how does that even make sense.... the code is p0300 now.... the p0303 is gone so now it is random misfire code. but the cel is always on so I don't know if other codes are popping up and turning off. a headache I tell ya. I cant even get into boost with out this thing bogging and surging while backfiring like a tommy gun.

 

[BOOSTR]

A vacuum leak can cause your code(s) and drivability issues.

 

[hornsfan10609]

So can a lot of things like the EGR or MAF. It could be the wiring to the coils or the plug wires. Have you reset the ECU? Stick with the stock heat range plugs unless you are pushing over 14-15psi.