Cobb AP full Throttle maps!

That is very mature to speak out about this 99. These mazdas are coming along pretty good it seems. Thanks for all the data and I appreciate your posting it up for us Aaron, sure sounds like it is working out well
 
I have done a lot of reading on this forum about the Cobb for my 08 Speed3... let me tell you what I am looking to do and maybe you guys can help me figure out the best route.

I am looking to eliminate the boost management in 1st and 2nd gear and maybe fine tune a little bit. This is my daily driver, she is stock and I don't want to go overboard... kinda did that already with our Firebird that is now pretty much track only. I wasn't sure if the Cobb would be a good idea or if you guys might know of something else that would take care of the Boost Management?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Jackie.
 
I hold over 17 psi in second gear with the ap, so I am guessing the boost limit has been removed in 2nd. I only hit 12 psi in first though. A boost controller and map clamp might do the trick or cpe's standback
 
I hold over 17 psi in second gear with the ap, so I am guessing the boost limit has been removed in 2nd. I only hit 12 psi in first though. A boost controller and map clamp might do the trick or cpe's standback

I don't quite understand the last part... bare with me I am a bit "turbo-dumb" I have really only worked with N/A V8 cars and have a little nitrous knowledge. This is my first turbo car.
 
I don't quite understand the last part... bare with me I am a bit "turbo-dumb" I have really only worked with N/A V8 cars and have a little nitrous knowledge. This is my first turbo car.

*This is my understanding, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

With a map clamp you will be able to limit how much voltage the map sensor sees. So you "trick" your ecu into thinking your running say 16 psi when you have your boost controller set to say 20 psi. The map clamp will allow your car to run off the 16 psi fuel/timing tables, but for the 20 psi you dialed in.
 
*This is my understanding, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

With a map clamp you will be able to limit how much voltage the map sensor sees. So you "trick" your ecu into thinking your running say 16 psi when you have your boost controller set to say 20 psi. The map clamp will allow your car to run off the 16 psi fuel/timing tables, but for the 20 psi you dialed in.

Ok so I take it the Cobb AP is not a Map Clamp/Boost Controller? Does anybody have a suggestions on a good boost controller and Map Clamp so I can start doing some comparisons? If I was to do that with the lower boost fooled at the map would that not make me run lean?

I really appreciate the help.
 
yes map clamps can make you run lean and prevent your ecu from implementing safety measures like boost cut that prevent your engine from blowing. In my opinion the ap is far superior because it reprograms the ecu instead of tricking it. My point was if all you care about is full boost in 1st and second there are other methods to get it. I don't see why you would want full boost in 1st though it is useless unless you are running slicks. Cobb may release maps without boost limits in first in the future but I'm not sure about that.
 
yes map clamps can make you run lean and prevent your ecu from implementing safety measures like boost cut that prevent your engine from blowing. In my opinion the ap is far superior because it reprograms the ecu instead of tricking it. My point was if all you care about is full boost in 1st and second there are other methods to get it. I don't see why you would want full boost in 1st though it is useless unless you are running slicks. Cobb may release maps without boost limits in first in the future but I'm not sure about that.

Oh ok... I really don't think I want full boost right now but more boost then what the stock management allows with out risking a bad lean condition. I'm not upset with your suggestion I really don't understand the ECU tuning side and all of my options. The more some of the items are explained the more I understand and can ask better questions. I can see where I wouldn't want to remove all of the boost control from 1st because it could be pretty spin happy. Like I said before I am really not educated about this and I am hoping to learn from what ever you have to offer.
 
Oh ok... I really don't think I want full boost right now but more boost then what the stock management allows with out risking a bad lean condition. I'm not upset with your suggestion I really don't understand the ECU tuning side and all of my options. The more some of the items are explained the more I understand and can ask better questions. I can see where I wouldn't want to remove all of the boost control from 1st because it could be pretty spin happy. Like I said before I am really not educated about this and I am hoping to learn from what ever you have to offer.

In my opinion, if you are looking for a tuning option then the Cobb AP is the way to go. I say this because soon tuners will have access to Cobb's pro tuning software. Meaning you will be able to go to your local tuner and get Pro-tuned, which is a specific calibration for your car. Cobb's OTS maps (maps currently available) have to be conservative in terms of tuning to suit every car.
 
Actually if you're spinning, you won't see full boost because you can't load the engine and spool the turbo properly. I'd expect it would be very hard (and have fairly limited usefulness) to see full boost in first in these cars under almost any conditions.
 
In regard to boost and traction. my little experience at the track first occurred in the after a month of ownership and the car only had the dealer installed MSCAI. The car was either in boost and spinning or out of it and not, based on my throttle input. Just in my opinion, there is plenty of pressure in first and second gear with the stock tires and suspension. Traction upgrades will allow more maximum lbs per gear to get the power to ground. 08, you do well to use caution with boost without control over fuel. many good points here I think.
 
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