Cobb AP Discussion Thread

you must be blowing a ton of hot air from the turbo which i believe is leading to your KR. i mean look at your Wastegate duty cycles, almost maxed just to hold under 18psi. with the stock intercooler you'd be wise to turn your boost back down to 16 or 17. your LTFT don't even zero out either which is odd.

now stopping riding the knock out unless you want to damage your engine. the only time that knock is ok to ride out is when cruising under vacuum and its just to maximize mpgs. under WOT that can cause some major damage, especially at 18psi, i'm sure you heard some clicking from the engine when you hit 8 degrees.
 
you must be blowing a ton of hot air from the turbo which i believe is leading to your KR. i mean look at your Wastegate duty cycles, almost maxed just to hold under 18psi. with the stock intercooler you'd be wise to turn your boost back down to 16 or 17. your LTFT don't even zero out either which is odd.

now stopping riding the knock out unless you want to damage your engine. the only time that knock is ok to ride out is when cruising under vacuum and its just to maximize mpgs. under WOT that can cause some major damage, especially at 18psi, i'm sure you heard some clicking from the engine when you hit 8 degrees.

Thanks Bova, I'll head down to the 91 map.
 
You may not need to change to a new map. Just reduce your requested load values. The load values in a different map may be too high for your car also.

You dont need to data log to know your TRL if you have ATR.

I don't have ATR. Gotta look into getting that too.
 
Question guys, money wise and performance also should I get a custom map with Cobb for my Fujita intake or just buy a Cobb intake and use theirs?
 
My Boost Leak Log... Big Leak Plugged, seek feedback

After tightening the coupler to the throttle body yesterday, I went WOT last night for a couple seconds, and hit a little over 17 PSI, whereas I only holding 5 PSI before that. The pipes aren't lined up properly, and I can see coupler that is buckled a bit that may be leaking air. Despite this, I wanted to try one datalog to see what it looked like. I kinda pussy-footed dipping into WOT, and shifted really slow. I'm not familiar with the sound of the HKS bpv (set to recric), and I didn't want to blow a coupler off, lol. So, I think I still may be losing boost, although the boost was pretty stable. I maxed out at like 17.5 PSI, whereas before I had seen it peak at like 19-20 for a single row. I only drove long enough today to fully bring her to temp. Good new is my BATs are nice and chilly, fuel pressure is excellent, and no KR in sight . AFRs are a little rich and whacky, which suggests that boost leak(s) persist. They will be fixed on Thursday.

I was surprised my WGD% didn't increase to try to make more boost to hit the load targets? Unless I was already hitting them at a lower PSI because of the fmic? My calc load was pretty high.. hitting about 208 and 210 pre and post shift, respectively. I dug up a WOT log I took a couple weeks before the fmic went in and attached it for comparison. Couple things here... First, with the FMIC and potential boost leak(s), my boost is a lot more stable than it was before. Also, the calc load is higher with the fmic with slightly less boost. My prior maps had me hitting higher boost, but the calc load was the same as with the fmic... if anything the calc loads were lower before. Am I correct in thinking that the fmic increased VE, and as a result I'm achieving higher calc loads with less PSI? If the logs remain similar after the leaks are fixed, can I safely increase my load/gear targets? I think I will use the +fmic map first, to see how the increased timing & slightly leaner OL/WOT fuel targets affect calc load first, before I start tweaking (and to control for variables).

ALSO, I am not yet running the +fmic map. This map has the identical load/gear tables as the +fmic, but not the advanced timing and not the slightly leaner OL/WOT AFRs. So, for the two logs below used that same map (including the same MAF calibration too). This map I was using before, that had my LTFT's within 2.

Please look at the two attached logs.. pre & post fmic. I'd appreciate your insights/comments/suggestions. Thanks guys!
 

Attachments

  • FMIC Boost Leak.xls
    19.5 KB · Views: 156
  • PRE-FMIC WOT log.xls
    16 KB · Views: 175
Last edited:
a whole day and no response. doug,..... i think you might be a big fish in a small pond here buddy. the forums seem a little slow lately. i dunno, maybe its me.
though i understand your dilemma, i'm still studying the help file myself, and really can't offer any advice.
but i figure a bump may help :)
 
a whole day and no response. doug,..... i think you might be a big fish in a small pond here buddy. the forums seem a little slow lately. i dunno, maybe its me.
though i understand your dilemma, i'm still studying the help file myself, and really can't offer any advice.
but i figure a bump may help :)

Yeah, I was kinda bummed no response, and I agree the forums have been slow lately. I actually brushed up on the helpfile the other day, as I'm going to have to tune the car when the pipes are fixed, and I want the tune as close to perfect (and safe) as possible. I was hoping to hear from Forzda or DJ or anyone for that matter! I guess I just have to be a little patient is all. I posted the same thread on msf, and got quite a few views, but no response yet. I think by the time I do, the boost leaks will be fixed! lol. A friend is helping me fix them on Thrusday, so I'm really looking forward to that. I appreciate the response though, and thanks for the bump :)
 
The differences are in the MAF g/s and Load, which result in the boost levels different to hit the requested Load. Looks fine to me... You may want to recal the MAF after you replace all the T-bolt clamps with screw type hose clamps. The T-bolts will allow you to tighten the s*** out of the connection, but it also pinches the hose and will cause more leaking, the tighter it is. If you insist on running the T-bolts, just snug them up slightly until you just barely can see the clamp compressing the hose, NOT until the nut is "tight".....
 
The differences are in the MAF g/s and Load, which result in the boost levels different to hit the requested Load. Looks fine to me... You may want to recal the MAF after you replace all the T-bolt clamps with screw type hose clamps. The T-bolts will allow you to tighten the s*** out of the connection, but it also pinches the hose and will cause more leaking, the tighter it is. If you insist on running the T-bolts, just snug them up slightly until you just barely can see the clamp compressing the hose, NOT until the nut is "tight".....

Thanks Forzda. That makes sense. I was planning on recalibrating the MAF once the leaks are patched, and the +fmic map has settled. I definitely over tightened the t-bolt clamps... everyone was like "use t-bolt clamps," so I did, and the instructions said "MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT OR YOU WILL HAVE BOOST LEAKS" <-- in all caps like that, lol. So I listened, but didn't realize you could over-tighten them until after I posted about the leaks. That's what I get for following directions, lol.

The way you said to tighten them is just what I needed to know. And, I saw my primary today, and I'm fine... no Pleurisy... he thinks I just ripped up some cartilage/ligaments or something on my chest wall. Probably from tightening bolts to the point of snapping them off, and lugging my 3 ton jack, stands, and creeper out of my trunk solo was probably not the best idea! The box said "two person lift" for a reason! LOL Bad news is not wrenching for me until it fully heals up, or I could re-injure it :(
 
I"m sure this has been covered somewhere in the 84 pages of this thread....BUT.....

I currently have the Cobb SRI+TIP, ITV22's and a test pipe. I'm considering purchasing an AP and would like to have the gains from the AP, but am not interested in the headache of constantly monitoring, logging, tweaking, etc. I want to upload a map (hopefully an off the shelf one) and go without issue. Is there a map for those mods that is reliable and worry-free? TIA!
 
I"m sure this has been covered somewhere in the 84 pages of this thread....BUT.....

I currently have the Cobb SRI+TIP, ITV22's and a test pipe. I'm considering purchasing an AP and would like to have the gains from the AP, but am not interested in the headache of constantly monitoring, logging, tweaking, etc. I want to upload a map (hopefully an off the shelf one) and go without issue. Is there a map for those mods that is reliable and worry-free? TIA!


IMO, the AP is more for folks interested in tuning, tweaking, and monitoring things. I recommend you buy the HyperTech doodad and forget it.
 
sry for random question but i have an accessport lookin to read codes in an 02 nissan sentra, can u use this on any car? it plugs in but when i press read codes is says cant communicate with ecu make sure plugged in securely and key goes off and on. I tried tons of possibilities im thinkin i need to change software if it even works. thanks, mike
 
sry for random question but i have an accessport lookin to read codes in an 02 nissan sentra, can u use this on any car? it plugs in but when i press read codes is says cant communicate with ecu make sure plugged in securely and key goes off and on. I tried tons of possibilities im thinkin i need to change software if it even works. thanks, mike

No, as far as I know you cannot use the AP on your Nissan.
 
Downpipe, catless, threw a CEL. but the ap has a no code found result.
Anyone have any ideas? this happened both after my map change, downpipe install. But i dont really think the ap flash could have caused it.
Only happens when the temps are really warm out.
 
The stage 2 map gets rid of the cat efficiency CEL.

The only problem is that the CEL like still lights, but leaves no code.

You could try calling me, I know stuff once and while.
 
Back