Cobb AP Discussion Thread
- Thread starter djdanny5000
- Start date
Maybe you're confusing it by trying to select a parameter when readying for data logging. There is a specific menu for selecting all the PIDs for logging. When you're ready to log, select the data log and press the first OK, it takes a few seconds and then says ready or something like that, you press ok and it goes to the PIDs view and says Not Logging. Then you press ok again and it should say Logging or something like that to begin logging. When you're done, you press ok to end.
Thanks for the help guys. I actually paid for my etune from race roots. I still haven't sent my info because ive been busy as hell. My car definately runs lean even in normal driving. When im in 1st gear and going really slow the car bucks like a newb does when learning to drive stick. Not quite that hard but definately noticable.
I looked at my intake / inlet and everything looks very tight. Could loose boost tubes from my TMIC cause this issue?? Thanks to the SU TMIC my tubes are pretty kinked and f'd up. Still have to get over there to pick up their new 2nd gen TMIC. Ill probably have to buy spare boost tubes as well.
This weekend hopefully I can reinstall my inlet / intake and pick up that new su TMIC. Then do some data logs so I can send my info to race roots.
here is a datalog I did a while ago. I hit fuel cut this run (hard buck) but actually lately I haven't gotten any fuel cut. Still lean though. My FP seems like its holding up though . . .
Thanks for feedback I appreciate it
Sorry that its hard to read /: FP is 4rth from the right
I looked at my intake / inlet and everything looks very tight. Could loose boost tubes from my TMIC cause this issue?? Thanks to the SU TMIC my tubes are pretty kinked and f'd up. Still have to get over there to pick up their new 2nd gen TMIC. Ill probably have to buy spare boost tubes as well.
This weekend hopefully I can reinstall my inlet / intake and pick up that new su TMIC. Then do some data logs so I can send my info to race roots.
here is a datalog I did a while ago. I hit fuel cut this run (hard buck) but actually lately I haven't gotten any fuel cut. Still lean though. My FP seems like its holding up though . . .
Thanks for feedback I appreciate it
Sorry that its hard to read /: FP is 4rth from the right
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
Every manual car I've driven and even the tank I used to drive for the Marine Corps bucked a little bit at low speeds in first gear... with the exception of the newest Honda Fit. Some do it a little worse than others. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
The thing is it only happened after I installed the ap
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
If you've not calibrated your MAF sensor, that would probably be why you're experiencing that now.
Yep. I reviewed the log posted and can say for sure that your MAF cal is off. The fuel trims are way too high (+) meaning the measured AFR in the DP is too lean as compared to the table requested values. The ECU is adding fuel to make the actual AFR meet the table value. The only way this happens is if the MAF cal is incorrect. It also appears that the target AFR is WAY to lean as well. If you paid for a pro tune take it back for correction. If you just installed the AP and haven't done the MAF cal, then you can do it yourself using the Cobb instructions, or maybe a forum member nearby can help you out. There are lots of details on MSF if you want to go there and save the thread for reference.
I also can plainly see the fuel cut at time hack 6.59 seconds. Looks like it hit the absolute load limit fuel cut at the 21.03 psi boost data point. The fuel pressure is fine. What is a bit strange is that the ECU is still in closed loop the entire time as the LTFT never drops to 0.016 to indicate the ECU has transitioned to open loop and not outputing LT fuel trims. I'm pretty sure the MAF calibration being off is affecting the closed-open loop switching as the ECU switches based on load determined by teh MAF value along with a few other parameters. In any case, you need a precise MAF calibration before ANYTHING else is done....
I reread your post to see you paid race roots for an e-tune. If you aren't very precise in doing your part in the initial data log procedure, they are shooting in the dark to set the MAF cal. If you were spot-on with the process, then RR likely goofed it up.....
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Thanks for the info!
I spoke to Chris at Cobb today.
They are absolutely the best over there. Answered all my questions took his time and was extremely helpful.
He explained that it could take a while to download the stock map (up to 30 min). Though as long as the battery doesn't die during the flash there is minimal chance the ecu could fry. And even if it does I will most likely just have to start over. Regardless I would rather not take the chance.
I am just going to be safe. Our friend who is a detailer has a trickle charger at his garage and has been kind enough to let me use it. Nice warm place and this way I will for sure be safe on the install.
It is my knowledge the trickle charger he has can be set to different power settings. Any idea on what I should set it to?
Thanks for the info. RR hasn't done anything yet. I paid for it but I haven't had the time to send in the logs. Right now im using FUCAI 93 octane TMIC stage 1 map.
How do you calibrate the MAF sensor?? Reset the battery??? I didn't reset after I loaded my AP map.
Edit: missed the part where you said check the instructions. Ill check it out. Anyone else have to do this ? After reading a little it says the maf calibrations can get off by installing intakes. More air gets in than the computer "thinks." Thus you run too lean. I have been monitoring my A/F before and after the AP install. I never had an issue until now.
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No, the MAF cal involves driving the car in a very specific manner while logging a specific series of data. The tuner will adjust the MAF voltage to grams per second calibration based on the LTFT at specific mass airflow data points. When you get that map returned you load it up and then you run another series of logs to check the overall MAF range to complete the calibration so the actual AFRs match the targeted AFRs. It is very important to get it right.
The Cobb AP really is for more experienced hotrodders rather than casual tinkerers. Cobb provides some very good documentation to help the hotrodders understand much of the ECU function. I recommend any and all read and understand the attached information.
So I need a tuner to calibrate this. . . Are you sure its not just a bad map im using?
Why can't this be corrected with a proper etune?
I can't open that link you posted for some reason but from my understanding the MAF sensor might be off when you install an aftermarket intake. You change the diameter of the pipe which can throw the sensor off. More air comes in than the computer realizes so you run lean. Wouldn't that problem occur with or without the tune though? This never happend before I loaded the ap.
Why can't this be corrected with a proper etune?
I can't open that link you posted for some reason but from my understanding the MAF sensor might be off when you install an aftermarket intake. You change the diameter of the pipe which can throw the sensor off. More air comes in than the computer realizes so you run lean. Wouldn't that problem occur with or without the tune though? This never happend before I loaded the ap.
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
You can calibrate it yourself using ATR.
I'm quite sure it IS a "bad" map for your car as the MAF cal is off quite a bit. Uninstall the map and you're back to the OEM cal which may be closer for your use. The AP tune, even the OTS versions, assumes you will perform the MAF calibration as the software was released BEFORE it was fully developed and compromised for "general" installation by noobs with no tuning. You can thank MSF hotrodder pressure for that result. If you're looking for a simple install and forget it, then get the HYPErtech. They claim to have made 1000+ dyno runs to make their software compromises compatible with a broader cross-section. Rest assured that Cobb didn't do that as the AP is more for dedicated DIY hotrodders, or skilled tuner use. The link attached is a simple Adobe pdf file, so you may need to download the free reader software.
Also consider that you may have developed an intake leak somewhere that has thrown off the MAF calibration as well.
All said though, if it isn't a leak then of course an E-tune will solve the problem. YOU must perform the initial logs properly though. The log you posted is worthless for tuning. It just shows it is wacked out. You MUST follow the procedure as spelled out in the documentation.
Good Luck! Let us know how it all comes out. I'm sure you will be happy when all is done.
Installing AP TODAY!
I am going to put on a stage 2 map despite not having a DP. Should be ok as long as I dont rip it for too long.
I have
Denso step colder plugs
TMIC
Turbo Inlet
Short ram intake
boost tubes
BOV
CPE cat back single exit
and an SU test pipe
SO a stage 2 should be fine.
This one matches me better than any others. Unless someone reccomends going for a lighter tune to start?
Stage2+TIHSF 93 v102 +TMIC
I am going to put on a stage 2 map despite not having a DP. Should be ok as long as I dont rip it for too long.
I have
Denso step colder plugs
TMIC
Turbo Inlet
Short ram intake
boost tubes
BOV
CPE cat back single exit
and an SU test pipe
SO a stage 2 should be fine.
This one matches me better than any others. Unless someone reccomends going for a lighter tune to start?
Stage2+TIHSF 93 v102 +TMIC
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- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
Installing AP TODAY!
I am going to put on a stage 2 map despite not having a DP. Should be ok as long as I dont rip it for too long.
I have
Denso step colder plugs
TMIC
Turbo Inlet
Short ram intake
boost tubes
BOV
CPE cat back single exit
and an SU test pipe
SO a stage 2 should be fine.
This one matches me better than any others. Unless someone reccomends going for a lighter tune to start?
Stage2+TIHSF 93 v102 +TMIC
If you still have the stock BPV or can run your existing valve in full recirculation mode I would recommend doing so. Outside of that, you should be fine with that map. If you find you're not liking it much, try just the Stage2 +TMIC map.
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
7.5 was my highest. It was coupled with a huge thud and shake of the entire car. It was definitely detonation and not just an overzealous knock sensor.
If you're seeing knock that high, you may want to look into remedies. If you are feeling and hearing it, too; well, you may want to take it in and have it looked at (depending on how often that happens).
