Cobb AP Discussion Thread

If I remember correctly, you should not be dropping below 1450psi.

Idle fuel pressure will run about 400psi. Your pressures looks fine to me. WHen WOT, you will want the FP to be >1000psi and some say 1200 is the lowest for safe WOT operations.

I don't see speed in your log, but the idle likely oscillated some from the vehicle motions. Idle speeds drop the fuel pressure. Remember the HPFP is camshaft driven and is controlled by the spill valve and ECU. If there is no demand, you will have lower pressure... Hope this helps.
 
Has anyone put their car into "economy mode" with the AP? I've got a long, cross-country trip ahead of me on Friday and was thinking about doing that for the duration of the trip but I didn't want to unless I heard something as to whether or not this is a smart idea. I'm already seeing around 28-29mpg @80mph.
 
I've not done it because I'm quite content with 34mpg highway running my Stage2 map. If you're seeing 29 already, I would recommend dropping your speed to 75mph, don't use the cruise control unless you're on very flat terrain, and add 2psi more than 'standard' to your tires. If you do all that, you should be right around the 33 range cumulative.
 
My best mileages are 23mpg with 93 octane, and that's both with the Stage 2 and stock.

Something of mine must not be right.
 
I'm thinkin it may be the old plugs, I have almost 38k on the original set. Densos are sitting right here for install, Friday yay! I cruise between 75-80 and I will do long highway drives for work. Even on highway only with no stop and go I'm not getting near what I've heard possible.

I'm getting exactly the same mileage I was pre-AP no difference at all.
 
supposedly, from what i was told, the ATR software can delete the Pcode but for some reason it couldnt remove the check engine light.... this true?
 
What mods do you currently have installed?



CP-E Xcel CAI and Magnaflow CBE with the Cobb AP Stage 2 SF.


on deck for this weekend, PG TIP, AWR Motor mount, Test Pipe. FMIC with HKS if it gets here in time for this install. Otherwise it's going to sit for a while, along with an AWR tranny mount
 
The test pipe and inlet pipe will open it up a lot for you. Ditching that cat will probably make a huge difference in your mileage.

As for the inlet pipe: Basically stock, these turbos and intake systems are like drinking through a straw. When you got the better intake, you essentially were drinking from a bigger cup... except still through a straw. Now that you're going to be replacing the highly restrictive inlet pipe with a quality part, not only are you drinking from a bigger cup, you're drinking with a bigger straw. Congrats!

Sorry to break it down Barney-style. For other users considering an intake but not an inlet pipe for the MZR DISI turbo, it's next to pointless. Sure it sounds different than stock, but your real gains are opening it up all the way to the turbo.
 
Yes, provided you reset the ECU and take your time relearning the fuel trims.

I think you'll be very happy with it. The better sound is an added bonus, too.
 
I got my AP the other day, but am hesitant to try it. What happens if a flash fails?
Is the ECU destroyed?
 

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