Cobb AP Discussion Thread

[Blendercloud]

As I've said previously (maybe it was in another thread), there is a difference between what you are probably experiencing versus what I consider "real knock". If it were real knock, you would hear it and feel it. Just the feeling real knock gives is enough to make you want to have your car checked out.

Just because it comes up as KR doesn't mean it's a big problem. However, you want to minimize the potential for that real knock as much as possible. Like previously mentioned, an e-tune or a dyno-tune is probably the best idea. These maps are generic and the car's observation equipment can only account for so much of the infinite variables that affect the way your car performs.

These off-the-shelf maps will work extremely well for about 90% of people who use them. The other 10% will work, but just not as well as you would expect.

If you are having problems with knock, I highly encourage you to move to a 91 octane map. You'll notice very minimal power loss. In fact, because the ECU isn't constantly dialing back timing mid-acceleration your car will probably feel faster.

Just because you have access to 93 octane gas does not mean you should be running a 93 octane map.

 

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

Gary, I've found that forcing the car to adjust during part throttle knock spikes seems to eliminate them. Also, you may want to try using different gas. I wouldn't tell mn3kgtvr4 to not try these maps, it seems that everyone has a little different response to them. Just looking through this thread, you'll see that a lot of people agree to disagree on map choices.

yes very true steve. my apologizes mn3kgtvr4. give it a shot on those maps. each car is different. in my opinion i think the reason on why i might be getting more kr than normal is due to my turboxs hybrid bov. i have said it from the beginning but hopefully my e-tune will help me with all of that since i really love the sound of the bov.

as for forcing the car i have been using this map for about 300 miles and a few weeks now..and the same issue keeps happening. idk lol

 

[tunersteve]

Gary, I've found that forcing the car to adjust during part throttle knock spikes seems to eliminate them."

Very interesting, I'll have to try that. I always let off/on the gas or shift, maybe time to let it learn.
AP comes tomorrow, have a feeling pretty much anything is going to be better than the stock ecu map from what I've read. Thanks for all the input.

I had a string of issues where at 75-80mph cruise, the car would get random knock spikes. At first, I'd drop it out of cruise to eliminate them, but then I tried just letting the ECU do its thing. After the latter, the car reduced these dramatically, and haven't had issues since.

 

[mn3kgtvr4]

I should clarify, I only get KR readings on the Dashhawk. Never felt/heard real knock. Typical 4th gear, 3-4k rpm, level throttle KR readings that everyone seems to get. Annoying. I'll definitely try a 91 map if the 93 seems off. Only 1 chain of stations around me that even pumps 93 so I often have to go with less anyway.

 

[chiefmg]

Okay, I'm looking through things to figure out which map to use. Is there some sort of index for the abbreviations on bova's site? I'm a noob again!

I have a few days as I need to run the car to the dealer to get some issues with the keyless start taken care of, and I am going to wait until afterwards to load anything up. Just in case.

 

[youngereveryday]

Is it really necessary to change spark plugs?

In the release notes it talks about changing the spark plugs (to Denso I believe).
Is that really necessary?
What would the result be, of not upgrading my plugs (ie. will the increases in Hp and Trq be the same as what is shown/graphed on the Cobb website)?

Cheers.

 

[79535]

The point of upgrading your plugs is to avoid knock. You are going to a 1 step colder plug which prevents detonation.

 

[coyfish]

What about the .028 gap cobb advises as opposed to stock suggested .030-.032 gap. Does it really make a difference. I just bought step 1 denso's pregapped to stock.

 

[Blendercloud]

What about the .028 gap cobb advises as opposed to stock suggested .030-.032 gap. Does it really make a difference. I just bought step 1 denso's pregapped to stock.

Spark Plug OEMs recommended gap is specified for easier cold starting and for smoothing driving on an engine that needs to be tuned. For better mileage, you can open up the gap just a little bit wider. However, by doing this you will probably sacrifice a bit of smoothness of the engine. For better performance, particularly at wide open throttle, it is recommended you close the OEM gap slightly (such as what Cobb recommends).

 

[coyfish]

I see . . . you are running 2 steps colder with the mods in your sig ??? I just bought a set of 1 step colder but maybe I should call them up tommorow and get 2 step colder . . . What do you think?

 

[Blendercloud]

I think you'll want to stay with 1 step colder. You will want an ignition upgrade before going to 2 steps colder. The ignition upgrade will help keep carbon deposits from building up on your plugs when you're too far outside the factory heat range.

 

[youngereveryday]

knock without colder plugs?

So if I'm stock (I'd be using the stage 1, 93 octane map; though I use 94 octane gas that contains up to 10% ethanol) and I don't change to colder plugs, I am pretty much guaranteed to get engine knock to some degree?

BTW, .

. . . cheers.

 

[Dr. D]

no... rule of thumb is for every 100 hp increase a 1 step colder plug should be used. also on a side note, i used those denso plugs and i gotta tell you i am not to fond of them. choppy acceleration, crazy knock on 4th gear. misfired like carzy. now i am not bashing anyone but i am not the only one with this problem with this plug. i just recently switched them. i went from the 1 step colder denso's (28gap) to the 1 step colder NGK's (28gap). after putting the ngk's in all my problems were solved. again no trying to argue with anyone but i will never use those plugs again. i had quite a bit of ppl tell me that those things were no good but now i know 1rst hand. NGK FTW

 

[chiefmg]

Okay, I've done some searching for the best map for my car. I can't make out what some of the abbreviations are for. So since many of you have been dealing with this for some time, I'll request some help.

My power mods: MSCAI, Speedie6 TIP, Forge BPV, 3.25" ETS TMIC, 2.5" test pipe, Magnaflow exhaust. I also already have Denso ITVs installed.

It appears that the only exhaust maps call for a turboback setup, so I don't know if having the stock downpipe would adversely affect it. I am thinking one of the Stage 2 93 maps would do the trick, but which one?

 

[Blendercloud]

Okay, I've done some searching for the best map for my car. I can't make out what some of the abbreviations are for. So since many of you have been dealing with this for some time, I'll request some help.

My power mods: MSCAI, Speedie6 TIP, Forge BPV, 3.25" ETS TMIC, 2.5" test pipe, Magnaflow exhaust. I also already have Denso ITVs installed.

It appears that the only exhaust maps call for a turboback setup, so I don't know if having the stock downpipe would adversely affect it. I am thinking one of the Stage 2 93 maps would do the trick, but which one?

Stage2 91/93 +MSCAI will work well for you.

 

[chiefmg]

Stage2 91/93 +MSCAI will work well for you.

Will that take into account the upgraded TMIC?

 

[youngereveryday]

** snipped ** . . . no... rule of thumb is for every 100 hp increase a 1 step colder plug should be used . . .

Thank you . . . then I guess for now, until further upgrades/mods, I'll stick with the stocker-plugs.

cheers!

 

[Blendercloud]

Will that take into account the upgraded TMIC?

I think you'll get more benefit from the MSCAI map than you would a TMIC map.

If you want both, you'll have to get an e-tune or dyno tune.

 

[youngereveryday]

e x c i t e d . . .

thank you US$ for declining against our canuck-buck . . . I ordered my AP today at "almost" par ($708 $Can) . . . now the impatient wait for 7-10 days!

 

[zinger002]

thank you US$ for declining against our canuck-buck . . . I ordered my AP today at "almost" par ($708 $Can) . . . now the impatient wait for 7-10 days!

:S i pickked myne up used for $400, much under what they resell for of course. but still wow new is a rip off.