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- 03 Mazda Protege5
Hey guys, first off I'm so thankful I've found this forum, been a great help so far. I picked up an 03 mazda p5 with 210k km, in really good condition both inside and out. Only one small rust bubble I intend on fixing!
After getting it inspected before purchasing I was told the battery was on its way out/leaking, ac and alternator belt need replacing, and the right engine mount is blown. Did the belts myself, and now I'm going to get a new battery. But shortly before I did the belts the check engine light came on. Could this be caused by the battery?
After checking with my multimeter, standing voltage is 12.6, idle is 13.9 and after ac and lights turn on it dips to 12.8, then back up to a steady 13.9. Doesn't really seem to be bad, but does seem to be taking a little longer to start up since I purchased the car last week. Could my check engine light be caused by my battery?
Also, in regards to my engine mount. I've searched on here and google for the last few days but can't seem to find a concrete answer on the best approach. It's a daily driver and will not see the track, but I am on a pretty tight student budget. My right mount is shot, the rubber is totally cracked and broken. Can the window weld mod only be done to intact mounts to stiffen them, or can I buy some more time with this mod? Or just save up for the OEM? I'm assuming if the right is gone the left will be shortly behind? Can I just buy some awr inserts and throw them into my stock mount effectively replacing the rubber?
Any help would be great! Thanks!
After getting it inspected before purchasing I was told the battery was on its way out/leaking, ac and alternator belt need replacing, and the right engine mount is blown. Did the belts myself, and now I'm going to get a new battery. But shortly before I did the belts the check engine light came on. Could this be caused by the battery?
After checking with my multimeter, standing voltage is 12.6, idle is 13.9 and after ac and lights turn on it dips to 12.8, then back up to a steady 13.9. Doesn't really seem to be bad, but does seem to be taking a little longer to start up since I purchased the car last week. Could my check engine light be caused by my battery?
Also, in regards to my engine mount. I've searched on here and google for the last few days but can't seem to find a concrete answer on the best approach. It's a daily driver and will not see the track, but I am on a pretty tight student budget. My right mount is shot, the rubber is totally cracked and broken. Can the window weld mod only be done to intact mounts to stiffen them, or can I buy some more time with this mod? Or just save up for the OEM? I'm assuming if the right is gone the left will be shortly behind? Can I just buy some awr inserts and throw them into my stock mount effectively replacing the rubber?
Any help would be great! Thanks!
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