changed spark plugs now check engine light
- Thread starter Davebert
- Start date
I would want to know what the code is before I cleared it. I don't know about Canada but here you can have codes pulled for free at Advance or Autozone. Just don't go replacing anything until you've determined what's causing it. Advance/autozone like to sell O2 sensors for evey code they pull.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
What he said^^ It could be something small, depending on how old and sorry looking the old plugs were. The ECU will take a few drive cycles to adjust everything to the new plugs, its most likely a "catalyst below efficiency threshold" CEL due to the change in cold start emissions with the spanking new plugs. How many miles on the car?
The car has 155K KM(almost 100K miles) and was still on the original plugs. Ask the garage to change them since they were replacing the lo-side AC hose that started to leak. The car is driving great and idle is much smoother, also feels like it is pulling better at low rpm.
I will leave it for a few days since there don't seem to be anything wrong with car. I should also have my code reader back from a friend tomorrow. The engine light also came on after the alternator was change and the when off on its own after a few days of driving.
I will leave it for a few days since there don't seem to be anything wrong with car. I should also have my code reader back from a friend tomorrow. The engine light also came on after the alternator was change and the when off on its own after a few days of driving.
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- 2006 Mazda5 Touring
If the CEL is emissions related it will not clear on its own. Something like the alternator would clear itself because the failure of the part was seen as a "monitored condition" by the ECU. Emissions related stuff, once latched will require a code reader to clear. Let us know what happens with it.
You're close, Secondtyme but not 100% accurate. Even emissions codes will clear after so many drive cycles without the pcm seeing the fault again. The amount of drive cycles required for the code to clear varies between codes and I'm sure is a parameter set by Federal emissions standards. IE: cat efficiency codes (P0420/P0430) may take 50 drive cycles or more but small evap leak (p0456) may only take 5 to 10. It really is dependent on the code.
Davebert, I am interested to see what code set if/when you get that info. It may be totally unrelated to the spark plug replacement and just be a coincidence.
Davebert, I am interested to see what code set if/when you get that info. It may be totally unrelated to the spark plug replacement and just be a coincidence.
Just checked the car with the code reader, I had "P2006 - variable tumbler valve stuck closed". I think this was just a temporary thing and the valve is working.
A quick Google check shows if the valve was stuck closed the engine would be running poorly and i will be having problems with acceration and idle which I am currently having the opposite experience. I have cleared the code and ran the car a bit and it did not return. Hope that is the end of this.
A quick Google check shows if the valve was stuck closed the engine would be running poorly and i will be having problems with acceration and idle which I am currently having the opposite experience. I have cleared the code and ran the car a bit and it did not return. Hope that is the end of this.
One thing you can double check is the two solenoids that sit on the front of the intake manifold. Those control the vacuum actuators for the variable tumble control and secondary shutter valves inside the intake. It is possible they broke the vacuum line on the solenoid and it would run fine but have a slight vacuum leak on cold start while the tumble control is operated. Just take a look at those solenoids and verify they're ok. It's easy to break those while leaning over the engine replacing the plugs. The solenoid were moved to the back of the cylinder head on 08 and up.
Thanks for the suggestion I will have a look tomorrow. Otherwise the car is doing great, engine running smooth and the front sway bar bushings and links were also replaced. Glad it was not me because the bolts were rusted and when they tried to remove them they broke off. It would not have been fun extracting rusted out bolts laying on my back under the car, probably would have taken me a whole instead of a couple of hours to replace these parts.
It has not been change yet. The delivery truck got stuck or was in an accident and they did not get the solenoid. Needed the car for the weekend so picked it up and will bring it in next week when they have the part. I will have a look and see if I can take a picture of it.
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Finally got the part replaced yesterday. Total cost $270CAN, the solenoid itself cost $200 from the dealer. Here are some pictures, looks like a easy DIY fix once you know that was the problem. The MZ5 has 2 on these on the front and I Google the part number L801-18-741, it looks like a generic part that also applies to other Ford and Mazda cars and can be bough on Ebay for under $20 with free shipping.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/171808369098
Here is the rusted out broken solenoid.
Here is the part number printed on the solenoid 1S7G-9J559-BB, Mazda part number is L801-18-741.
Here is the new solenoid in the car, the other one is on the left, probably will change it myself before it goes bad.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/171808369098
Here is the rusted out broken solenoid.
Here is the part number printed on the solenoid 1S7G-9J559-BB, Mazda part number is L801-18-741.
Here is the new solenoid in the car, the other one is on the left, probably will change it myself before it goes bad.
Great post.
Thanks!
Davebert, I thought something looked off about the photo you posted. Here is what the bottom port should look like.
To my eye it looks like the shop broke the solenoid and then tried to glue a regular vacuum tip onto it. I would take a close look at yours for signs of glue. You might be able to get your money back for that repair.
To my eye it looks like the shop broke the solenoid and then tried to glue a regular vacuum tip onto it. I would take a close look at yours for signs of glue. You might be able to get your money back for that repair.
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- 2010 Mazda5 GT
Go to the owner and give him a chance. Usually the mechanics will hide this stuff from their bosses.
