Changed My Cabin Filter

[timby78]

Unintended consequences

Thanks for the thread. I successfully changed my cabin air filter. One small problem afterward: The blower does not work anymore!!!!!! I checked fuses and none were blown. I checked the wires on the plate that was removed to make sure they hadn't come loose. Any ideas?

One more piece of info: while I was changing the filter, I didn't finish in one sitting, so I drove for a day with the panel open and no filter.

Any help appreciated. I'm hoping that after saving tons of cash on changing the filter myself I won't have to spend hundreds to get the blower working.

 

[mazdadude]

Thanks for the thread. I successfully changed my cabin air filter. One small problem afterward: The blower does not work anymore!!!!!! I checked fuses and none were blown. I checked the wires on the plate that was removed to make sure they hadn't come loose. Any ideas?

One more piece of info: while I was changing the filter, I didn't finish in one sitting, so I drove for a day with the panel open and no filter.

Any help appreciated. I'm hoping that after saving tons of cash on changing the filter myself I won't have to spend hundreds to get the blower working.

So, is it possible then, when you drove the car without finishing, the electrical connectors were hot plugged at the cabin filter?

If so, I know exactly what happened because it happened to me. If the connectors are plugged in with the ignition on, it will blow the fuse inside the power mos fet (the assy with black plastic on one side and big heat sink fins on the other side that is screwed to the filter access door). And the blower motor will no longer work. The power mos fet is not designed to be serviced, however when I blew mine, I did manange to take mine apart and solder in a new fuse, so it can be done. If I recall correctly the replacement part was around $80 from mazdaonlineparts.

 

[timby78]

Thanks to mazdadude for the info. Sounds like I replicated your "experiment." Hopefully I can replicate you solution as well. Did the part come with step-by step instructions? I'd like to make sure I don't cause any more damage "saving money."

 

[timby78]

Part # ?

And the blower motor will no longer work. The power mos fet is not designed to be serviced, however when I blew mine, I did manange to take mine apart and solder in a new fuse, so it can be done. If I recall correctly the replacement part was around $80 from mazdaonlineparts.[/QUOTE]

Any chance you still have the part #?

 

[Robotazky]

Power mos fet? You mean MOSFET? What does a field effect transistor have to do with the fuse? Sounds like you blew a fuse. MOSFETs don't "blow" unless you reverse the current about 100 times what the normally see. Even Mazda isn't stupid enough install a part that could see such a dramatic spike to ruin it when it costs $.10 to buy a million different versions that won't fry. I just don't understand what you guys are talking about. It makes no sense. Are you just saying you blew a fuse?

 

[mazdadude]

Well my fix involved taking the unit apart, unsoldering the old blown fuse, and installing a replacement fuse, so it was free. I tried looking for the part number for the entire replacement piece from Mazda, but had no luck so far. The parts catalog calls it a different name than the service manual. OK found the part it is here : Collision Catalog - 2006 - Mazda - MAZDA5
Air conditioner and heater, Evaporator and heater components, Resistor, #25 in the diagram $112 MSRP http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214264&chapter=&Sectionids=0,51825&groupid=51827&subgroupid=2383&componentid=0&make=22&model=MAZDA5&year=2006&graphicID=5460082&callout=25&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

My unit tested out bad, so since I had nothing to lose, I went ahead and disassembled the component, saw that there was a fuse inside, tested the fuse, and determined that it was indeed the fuse that had blown. I have electronic and soldering skills so it was not a problem for me to unsolder and replace.


FROM MAZDA5 2006 Factory Service Manual:

To test your POWER METAL OXIDE SEMICONDUCTOR FIELD EFFECT TRANSISTOR (POWER MOS FET) you will need an ohm meter.

Connector { | x | C | B | A | }

TESTER LEAD+ , TESTER LEAD- , RESISTANCE kilohm,
A , B , INFINITE,
A , C , 6.9,
B , A , CONTINUITY DETECTED,
B , C , CONTINUITY DETECTED,
C , A , 6.9,
C , B , INFINITE,

 

[Heat]

To make a long story short,

make sure that your keys are out of the ignition when changing the cabin filter.

 

[SGT_OKINAWA]

To make a long story short,

make sure that your keys are out of the ignition when changing the cabin filter.

I did the giggle thing when I read that, because I was going to say the same thing. (rofl)

Peace!(rei)

 

[mazdadude]

To make a long story short,

make sure that your keys are out of the ignition when changing the cabin filter.

(yes)
EXACTLY<<<< Thats why almost every item in the service manual is preceeded with disconnecting the Battery Ground.

If you didn't feel like hacking into your old one, this might be a good item to get from a mazda recycler.

 

[MD5]

Its been about 34k miles, time to do this again... (notcool)

 

[MD5]

I found a better link for the cabin air filter:

https://www.logical-source.com/2006-MAZDA-MAZDA5-7569.html

$9.94 for the set. That's the best price I've been able to find.

 

[txtcain]

Does the 2002 Protege ES have these cabin filters???

 

[mazdadude]

Does the 2002 Protege ES have these cabin filters???

No, your air is unfiltered. (thumb)

 

[suniri]

2007 Owners, it's time to change your filter

I just replaced the cabin air filter in my 2007 TG, 37,500 miles. Attached is the picture of the old cabin filter. New filter set costs $10.07 delivered off from ebay. It was really tricky to remove one top screw. You may need to be prepared to squeeze yourself.

 

[Rockin03mp5]

Here is a good video.

 

[BellyPanMan]

Replacing Cabin Air Filter With Rear Ventilation

This if my first post, if I screw up picture attachment or otherwise, please be gentle. I just replaced the cabin air filters on my Canadian Model 2010 Mazda 5 GS with optional "Rear Air Vents with fan-speed control" at 36,829 km (22,885 miles). I used Mazda Part Number CE49-61-J6X ($35.41 Cdn), and followed the instructions in the video at www.filterheads.com/product/single/AQ1116 which may show a Mazda 5 without rear air vents. As suggested by the Mazda service manual, I did disconnect the battery first. The process was similar to what's shown in the video, but I'm guessing they had the vehicle on a hoist in order to access the parts. On the basis of an earlier post suggesting having the vehicle on ramps, I drove my vehicle onto ramps, and then jacked the ramps get the front wheels 14" off the ground. While this might make the job easy for a young, small, flexible person, for a late fifties 6" 210 lb guy it didn't help with removing screws though it probably did help with removing the plastic panels under the glove box and beside the foot well. Perhaps hoisting the vehicle 3 feet or so above the ground would be worthwhile for a big guy to do this job. In order to remove the 4 screws, I moved the seat as far back as possible, and fully reclined the seat-back, then sat backward on the seat, with my feet up beside the headrest, my back on the seat bottom and my head underneath the dash. I placed a light coloured towel on the floor to help reflect light onto the air ductwork in order to see the screws (only 4 need to be removed), and did not find it necessary to disconnect the electrical connectors. YMMV. I did mark the filters prior to removal, in order to get the orientation of the new ones correct, and marked the new one prior to installation. Perhaps because the front of the vehicle was in the air, it wasn't difficult to hold the top filter in place in order to insert the bottom filter. Hope this info is helpful to someone.

 

[Robotazky]

I read this thread every time something new is added, and I still can't figure out how people can make this into something that takes longer than 5-10 minutes. I'll admit that you have to put yourself in an awkward position, especially if you're bigger, but I don't see the actual filter change being a big deal. Are you guys, who are having trouble, using a magnetized screw driver?

 

[Rockin03mp5]

it took me about 10 minutes for my first time, but im pretty fit and was able to contort and get both arms up there.