Car sound pics

[The_Flamming_7]

Actualy the 13W7s average power handling is 1000 watts and trust me the audiobahn amps do not put out what they claim. nor do the subs handle the power they claim effectively like the JLs do.
A JL 13W7 can take on 2 JL 1000/1 amplifiers.

I don't know dude, my friend has a 13W7 that thought the same and he had 2 amps pushing it and he blew it. I think the amps were pushing out 700 or 800 RMS a piece.

And as for Audiobahn stuff, I'm pretty much happy with my stuff because I beat a kid with two 12" JLW3's and almost beat a kid with two 15" JLW3's(146.9), but I know that the W7's are truly amazing, but like I said, after seeing my friend blow his, I don't think they can handle that much power. And the Audiobahn stuff that I have was actually tested at Boom Audio(well the amp was), and it was tested at 1350RMS. As for the sub...?? Not sure, I have noticed it bottoming out because excursion is not great but I haven't blown it yet and it's plenty powerful for me(146.7) and I plan on buying another 15"(maybe).

 

[1sty]

How did they test the RMS output of the amp?
The 13W7 can easily handle a true 2000 watts rms, the problem is people underpowering the W7s. Thats when they blow. Only a purely clipping signal can take them out.

 

[The_Flamming_7]

How did they test the RMS output of the amp?
The 13W7 can easily handle a true 2000 watts rms, the problem is people underpowering the W7s. Thats when they blow. Only a purely clipping signal can take them out.

They tested it by hooking it up to some power and connected a deck and computer and they played with the settings for about 20 mintues or so and they printed out a sheet sort of like a dyno slip and it costed $15. I'm not sure how Kicker does it but they test out all their s*** as well, only they do it before they ship it(example: The Kicker 400.1 actually pushes out 480RMS, it's the birth certificate). The sheet actually shows the ups and downs on each frequency and where the amp began to clip and cool s*** like that, as well as the peak which I believe is around 3000, but I'm not certain, I wasn't too worried about that.

 

[1sty]

At what voltage was the test?
Also what amperage can the powersupply they used continuously supply, was a true load like a sub hooked up to it?

 

[The_Flamming_7]

At what voltage was the test?
Also what amperage can the powersupply they used continuously supply, was a true load like a sub hooked up to it?

Actually, I just found the slip and I'll scan it and put up a pic as soon as I can.
The amp was running at 14.4 if I recall correctly, doesn't say on slip.
No, no sub was hooked up because they didn't have a sub that could handle that much power at the time because I didn't buy my sub till 3 weeks later. I only had a Kicker S10L7 running at 2 ohms hooked up at the time.
It's like an actual power supply that is hooked up to the wall that they used, it was like(what the hell is it called?) one of those big grey boxes like on a powerline, but obviously wasn't as strong. So, it wasn't like hooked up to a car battery or anything.
Would it have made a difference if it were hooked up to a sub? I don't know.

 

[The_Flamming_7]

At what voltage was the test?
Also what amperage can the powersupply they used continuously supply, was a true load like a sub hooked up to it?

Actually, I just found the slip and I'll scan it and put up a pic as soon as I can.
The amp was running at 14.4 if I recall correctly, doesn't say on slip.
No, no sub was hooked up because they didn't have a sub that could handle that much power at the time because I didn't buy my sub till 3 weeks later. I only had a Kicker S10L7 running at 2 ohms hooked up at the time, but they plugged those wires that came from the computer into the speaker terminals.(maybe the computer adjusts itself for s load, I don't know)
It's like an actual power supply that is hooked up to the wall that they used, it was like(what the hell is it called?) one of those big grey boxes like on a powerline, but obviously wasn't as strong. So, it wasn't like hooked up to a car battery or anything.
Would it have made a difference if it were hooked up to a sub? I don't know.
I'll work on getting that pic up.

 

[1sty]

Absolutely, that test wasn't really acurate. First becuase the power supply can maintain a 14.4 volt output, a car can't.
Also the power will change as the sub plays. Different frequencies will change the subs resistance and can go over 20 ohms, not to much power coming out of an amp i it sees a 20 ohm load .

Take the JL 500/1, speced to 550 watts rms, and that is the measurable output but if you put a real sub on it at 2 ohms you can measure over 700 rms.

 

[chuyler1]

...I meant AE (AniVersary Edition)...

Audiobahn does not ring "quality" in my ears at all. Their amps are essentially PG designs built with cheaper components. I have no experience with their subs though....

this discussion is getting pretty heated...which is usually what happens when people start comparing numbers to apples and oranges.

anyway, IMO, it is possible to get a subwoofer with a flat frequency response in any price range and any power range (over say 200 watts). Some subs may require more tuning than others to get this but it is possible. Couple that subwoofer with nice components powered by a clean amp and you have a great SQ setup. No one will notice that you only paid $200 for your sub instead of $800.

Any more power over say 350 watts is for show, for SPL, or for vehicles that weren't designed for SPL. If you can't get decent sound with 350 watts then you need to rethink your install or your vehicle. The reason I mention your vehicle is because a full size SUV cannot be filled with bass the same way a sedan or hatch back can. There are loads of cancelation issues. However, when a sealed enclosure will work fine in a hatch back, a bandpass enclosure is more practicle when you have the space and need more sound i your SUV. yadda yadda yadda

So I don't see the practicality of Audiobahn's 2000 watt subwoofer....can anyone enlighten me?

 

[The_Flamming_7]

The Audiobahn quality all depends on what you buy, for instance, mine is a $700-800 subwoofer compared to the lower 15" models that you can buy for under $200. You usually pay for what you get. And Audiobahn making a sub that could handle that much..I couldn't tell you why, I just wanted something loud without having to mess with 2 or 3 subwoofers, so it fits my purpose. Pioneer and MTX make 2000RMS watt subs too, so.... , And Kicker has an 18" that just came out with 5000RMS, the companies just try to top each other. If you want to buy cheap stuff either go to www.etronics.com(where I buy most of my s***) or www.woofersetc.com
I bought my sub for $279.99, MSRP is $700-800
I bought my amp for $349.99, MSRP is $800
I bought my deck for $369.99, MSRP is $800
Check out those sites!

I don't believe this is getting heated yet...?

I doubled check that sheet and it was running at 12V, but still no sub was hooked up, but it was tested at a 1 ohm resistance. The scanner isn't working right now, but I promise I'll have a pic up by the end of the night.

 

[p5s_letsroll]

Here is a perfect example guys..

This Audiobahn Stuff (15" 2000W RMS) & Audiobahn Amp (1200RMS) hitting 146.7 in a true hatchback..

My JL12W7 with JL 500/1 hitting 146.5 in a stationwagon/hatchback..

I would guarantee if we swapped out speakers in either car the JL would be louder with whatever power you push to it..

Perfect example of where displacement is not always the winner. Neither is power.. This is were JL has really come together on their products is r/d.... They are effecient with whatever they do, and they under-rate everything!!!! Excursion does make a difference!!!!

 

[chuyler1]

We should invent a new statistic...the SPLollar ratio. where the Dollar amount is the sum of the retail value of your amplifier and subwoofer(s). (possibly your battery/alternator/electrical system)

I'd compete in that category...who can take the cheapest stuff and get the highest spl?

 

[1sty]

I have been saying that is the only fair way to do comps for years!
Heres my sound off leque:
you have several divisions, could be SQ or DB they exist in both.
1. Self installed amature (you installed it yourself with no professional help)
2. Customer (you paid a professional to install the system)
3. Professional (You work as an installer or did and are competing in your own car)

These get rid of the BS when a kid with a little bit of money has to compete as a novice against some assclown that just paid $10K for someone else to install his stuff. This is unfair and idiotic. No wonder soundoff organizations don't make money.

Inside of Each Division are classes based on RETAIL Expense of Equipment.
1. $0-$2500 ( upgrade )
2. $2501-$5000 ( system )
3. $5001-$10,000 ( Pimp )
4. $10,001 - up (Bling-Bling)

All equipment used for the system must be listed, deck, amps, subs, processors, alternators, batteries, caps.
Accesories like power wire and RCAs are of no concern to the costs. As is wood or fiberglass, vinayl or others, this is an SQ or DB and funky creations don't mean dick. However proper install will.

 

[chuyler1]

sounds good to me....

My favorite articles in magazines are of the "DIY" or "stock upgrade" type. Its nice to see what a real person has done with their daily driver. Those fiberglass happy installs are cool and everything but they take away from the real goal of car audio...good music. (kinda like flashy rims and spoilers take away from the perfomance upgrades of a car)

 

[1sty]

Which is why i see no point in them as far as judging goes.

 

[p5s_letsroll]

I would totally agree with the competitions you guys are talking about. I think that would be pretty cool myself..

However I don't really fell the alternator and such should be included, cause what if someones stock alternator cost $300 on an import and pushes 80 Amps and a GM alternator cost $110 and pushed 130 Amps.. That would be unfair..

But yes, great idea for competitions.. Write USACi and dB Drag Racing that info..

To let you both know, I do all my own installs.. Except for the kick panels of course.. I do NOT believe in paying a shop to run my wires through a car, or install my decks.. Useless spending of hard earned cash.. IMO

Later guys..

 

[1sty]

I would only include upgraded alternators as a cash dedutable item.
That way there is flexibility in the car you choose to upgrade for competition. i am not trying to make it dead even, thats simply not possible. Just want to give the kid in his backyard, without a shop and $25K worth of tools and accesories a fighting chance.

 

[p5s_letsroll]

totally understandable..

Also: All different categories

Cars
SUVs
Trucks
Vans

 

[1sty]

I wouldn't split up by vehical type, thats part of the fun and the challenge. An SUV will give you better Sq as there is nothing blocking a direct and untainted sub wave and kick panels can easily fit. However dashboards are high so getting a good stage is a b**** often.
Every car has advantages and disadvantages. Thats just part of the game.

 

[p5s_letsroll]

oh yes, yes..

I forgot we was talking about SQ.. Sorry

 

[1sty]

DB too.