Car Jerking

Fuel cut will always be a issue, esp w/ the addition of a FMIC. I have to let me car run for 45 minutes or so untill the piping is at operating temperature before i can get on it. even with outside temp in the 60's and 70's, i still get fuel cut.
 
Yeah, the actuator is what I'm replacing. It's harder to change this thing than I thought..Also, my manifold has a crack. FML (unamused)

edit: I cant remove the second bolt holding the actuator on because the clearance is way too tight. I can get a ratcheting wrench on there but it just hits the actuator rod so I can't turn it. Anyone know of any tricks to this? Also, it's started to rain... I guess I'll be driving the Impreza for a few days..

edit 2: Does anyone know if the OBX manifold works with the stock turbo?

no that manifold is for a t3 t4 style turbo (custom setup) our turbos are t2 get a thunder manifold or a steedspeed which are direct replacement manifolds
 
I'm having the same Bogging down/loss of power feeling in 3rd gear as I hit 4 RPM and all I have installed so far is my Injen CAI (yesterday). Before when I had stock I could feel the lag in same senario but not as bad. I've read everywhere in this forum and have found that it's happening to everyone. The majority have correct by installing a Split Second AFC and I only mention this specific on because apparently others have tried different kinds of AFC but only had best results with SS AFC. Boost Guage/Controller and Wideband is another thing that has been highly recommended. Our cars run naturally rich due to the computer image (before and after flash). I interested in seeing how the computer will react when I install my SMIC and hard pipes (both from turbohoses) and my 3" Vibrant Turbo back. I know that I'm going to end up getting the AFC, Wideband, and boost controller, so i'm just going to have to save for now and just drive with the stupid BOG in 3rd gear.

P.S. At first I though It may be the MAF sensor so I tried cleaning it out and broke the little sensor inside (I was pissed). So I ended up buying a new one at Advanced Auto $190 (+$30 core charge) and I still have the same problem. So my suggestion is leave the MAF sensor alone unless you get a code coming back from the ECU. I would of bought the dam wideband on ebay with that money.
 
So I have the old wga out and the new one in. Problem is that I lost the clip, and the hole on the actuator arm does not reach the little piece that comes out of the turbo (the part where the clip holds it on). WTF! Why won't it reach! It's f**king designed for this car! ATP wga here. I'm getting really pissed off... The Subaru was way easier to work on... I'm ready to push this thing off of a cliff.

edit: Got everything bolted up minus the e-clip. I bought a bunch of e-clips in different sizes but I don't have time today to put it in. I started the car like it is and the whistling noise I usually get is gone and it was idling good and everything. Things are looking up :p

edit 2: Went for a test drive after getting the clip on, and...well...the car feels slower, lol. I must have been overboosting like 4-5 psi before, haha. But the hesitation is completely gone, as well as the fuel cut. So friggin' relieved right now.
 
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So I have the old wga out and the new one in. Problem is that I lost the clip, and the hole on the actuator arm does not reach the little piece that comes out of the turbo (the part where the clip holds it on). WTF! Why won't it reach! It's f**king designed for this car! ATP wga here. I'm getting really pissed off... The Subaru was way easier to work on... I'm ready to push this thing off of a cliff.

edit: Got everything bolted up minus the e-clip. I bought a bunch of e-clips in different sizes but I don't have time today to put it in. I started the car like it is and the whistling noise I usually get is gone and it was idling good and everything. Things are looking up :p

edit 2: Went for a test drive after getting the clip on, and...well...the car feels slower, lol. I must have been overboosting like 4-5 psi before, haha. But the hesitation is completely gone, as well as the fuel cut. So friggin' relieved right now.

so what are you boosting at now? cause I am back to stock and really havent had many problems no fuel cut maybe a little hesitation but not much. the is just slower now...
 
so what are you boosting at now? cause I am back to stock and really havent had many problems no fuel cut maybe a little hesitation but not much. the is just slower now...

Don't know, I don't have a boost gauge yet. All I know is the car is still fast, but not really as fast as it was before. But it drives super smooth with no cut or jerking.
 
im new to this and ive owned my 03 msp for over a year now and recently my maf went and i had to get that replaced, and i got new spark plugs with it. i was told it was running very rich before and now it just feels so much slower. sometimes my turbo doesnt even spool up when i push it and it gets frustrating. Im trying to soak up knowledge as fast as i can but any advice?
 
i absolutely hate dealing with this 1 problem on the car, i get beat by kids in bad cars and they sit and brag it makes me not want the car but i have faith that eventually someone will find an ultimate solution... just hurry up
 
im new to this and ive owned my 03 msp for over a year now and recently my maf went and i had to get that replaced, and i got new spark plugs with it. i was told it was running very rich before and now it just feels so much slower. sometimes my turbo doesnt even spool up when i push it and it gets frustrating. Im trying to soak up knowledge as fast as i can but any advice?

was your car running like crap before u got the maf replaced? or was there an engine light on? i dont know if our cars go into like a limp mode if theres a massive fualt in the maf. or not? but I would asoon with a bad maf the car would run like crap unless it fualted somehow so that it read more air and then it would dump more fuel... who knows
this thread will be on here for the life of this site i know that haha
 
was your car running like crap before u got the maf replaced? or was there an engine light on? i dont know if our cars go into like a limp mode if theres a massive fualt in the maf. or not? but I would asoon with a bad maf the car would run like crap unless it fualted somehow so that it read more air and then it would dump more fuel... who knows
this thread will be on here for the life of this site i know that haha

yeah thats exactly what was happening it was running rich but no check engine light... i wasnt able to get to the car first someone had a fmic on and they took it off before selling. i also had a small oil leak on my turbo fixed which might be leading to my "feels much slower" problem
 
knock on wood but ever since i fixed that bpv broken tube with some hardcore industrial glue i havent hit fuel cut once and have had very little hesitation..... again knock on wood we will see what happens once i put the front mount on......
 
so incase u didnt know this the stock intercooler pipes suck, on my cold pipe right next to throttle body the boost sensor is glued onto the pipe ya well it came off. massive boost leak.
 
yup, that happened to me when I was stock. ended up using black silicone to seal it back up. God, I hated those stupid plastic pipes. That was one of the most stupid ideas ever and I got my FMIC as soon as I could..lol
 

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