can't kill turkey and i'm stalling w/ dual bpv/bov

i give up , no biggie every one agrees maf cars should remain sealed
but acts like it doesnt matter . i guess it really is about the whoosh

to me its more like people are saying **** it , ill use this cuz it works instead of fixing the issue
 
even on a narrow band you can see it go lean off the gas ... cuz your not feeding it gas.

but the second you go back on , its super rich for a second , hence the drop in performance
 
I realize that but at this point, I had spend $1700 on the ES kit with the BOV, another $135 on a used Injen, $125 on new couplings, etc. I had already spent enough trying to figure out what the problem was.

Don't want to go back now, I'd be left with a hole in my upper intercooler pipe.

Notorious, again, thanks for the help. I think I got it where it doesn't look to bad either. All the hoses and the valve is black so it blends in a bit. Most people don't notice it because their attention is focused on the "shiny metal".

Looks less obtrusive from this view. I just have to hide the clamps a little better. Thinking of painting them black.

NoVaMSP said:
the valve hes talking about is about 160$$ you can get a adapter for hks flange im sure
 

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NoVaMSP said:
i give up , no biggie every one agrees maf cars should remain sealed
but acts like it doesnt matter . i guess it really is about the whoosh

to me its more like people are saying **** it , ill use this cuz it works instead of fixing the issue

What can we fix though? Not flaming, I am asking a serious question. To my knowledge, there is nobody here who has fixed the surge with a single BPV... which is what you guys are saying is the only way to run our car.

Yes, I could get a blow through MAF and use the MPI to tune it, but I don't see what the big problem is with doing things a little bit different than the traditional way.

Just because nobody else uses 2 valves, we should say that it's not an option for us? That kind of logic stunts creative growth.
 
NoVaMSP said:
even on a narrow band you can see it go lean off the gas ... cuz your not feeding it gas.

but the second you go back on , its super rich for a second , hence the drop in performance

It never goes *super* rich though, that is why I offered to go take a video of the wideband so you can see the readings for yourself. It also doesn't go rich as soon as you get back on it... it stays maxxed out over 17 on my WBo2 for a brief second after I get back on the gas.
 
505zoom said:
You know what is wierd though? And I didn't notice this untill I got the WBo2, but the car runs insanely lean when you let off the gas... even with the BOV/BPV setup. Discreet said he noticed this as well.

The msp doesn't run rich ALL the time... only in open loop.

Same here, when off the gas no matter what gear, I'm blinking at the leanest position. I'll hae to pay more attention to what it does when I get back on the gas.

Mark
 
No problem, I'm glad it worked out for you.

Mark94 said:
Notorious, again, thanks for the help. I think I got it where it doesn't look to bad either. All the hoses and the valve is black so it blends in a bit. Most people don't notice it because their attention is focused on the "shiny metal".
 
with the mpi tuner you could prob tune it pretty good reguardless of venting or not
i just worry about the little man venting all over the place talking about my is my car running like s***.

glowmonkey says he fixed it with a single bpv , my set up works pretty good
and i still think 2 valves is a realistic option , but both should be returned
 
all cars run lean when you let off the gas in gear and then go rich when you get back on it. They run lean because it only needs minimal gas to run if the the transmission is keeping the motor running and cylinders moving up and down. Even stock on the msp it'll light up the last led rich as soon as you touch the gas again, which is fine because it'll almost instantly work its way back to stoich if in closed loop operation. The msp rich condition doesn't really hit until it switches over to open loop operation.
 
Notorious said:
all cars run lean when you let off the gas in gear and then go rich when you get back on it. They run lean because it only needs minimal gas to run if the the transmission is keeping the motor running and cylinders moving up and down. Even stock on the msp it'll light up the last led rich as soon as you touch the gas again, which is fine because it'll almost instantly work its way back to stoich if in closed loop operation. The msp rich condition doesn't really hit until it switches over to open loop operation.

(mswerd)

Mine does it when I let off the gas and put the clutch in though, so it is not in gear.
 
Notorious said:
all cars run lean when you let off the gas in gear and then go rich when you get back on it. They run lean because it only needs minimal gas to run if the the transmission is keeping the motor running and cylinders moving up and down. Even stock on the msp it'll light up the last led rich as soon as you touch the gas again, which is fine because it'll almost instantly work its way back to stoich if in closed loop operation. The msp rich condition doesn't really hit until it switches over to open loop operation.

I'm not very knowledgable with this aspect, but that is what I heard also. I heard it should go lean when off the gas because the injectors should not be firing much at all during this time. If they are, it could be causing damage (to what I'm not sure).

Forget where I read this but I thought it was normal so I haven't been concerned about it.

Mark
 
This is true, its also a huge fuel waster keep in the injectors firing when fuel isn't needed. Like you said it could damage the motor because there would be too much fuel and if the throttlebody isn't open it'll run rich to the point where it'll stress the motor, and possibly flood the cylinders. So when you get back on the throttle it'll be too rich to recover seamlessly.



Mark94 said:
I'm not very knowledgable with this aspect, but that is what I heard also. I heard it should go lean when off the gas because the injectors should not be firing much at all during this time. If they are, it could be causing damage (to what I'm not sure).

Forget where I read this but I thought it was normal so I haven't been concerned about it.

Mark
 
Thanks again for the help Notorious (2thumbs)

Gald everyone seemed to work out their differences here and hopefully we help out some poeple in the future!

Mark
 
505zoom

sorry for the delayed response. i was doing your setup and I accidently broke the check valve in the brake booster line while tapping into it. i needed to get a new one and it took some time. i don't know if the change in the vacuum line setup works yet (hope it does), but i'll find out tomorrow morning. like i said earlier it only stalls on cold starts. i did everything as your picture indicated and i'm pretty sure i did it right. i'll pm you some pictures if you have time to take a look at them.

i dunno why people are flaming, but i for one am very greatful for your help. thanx.
 
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kicker22705 said:
505zoom

sorry for the delayed response. i was doing your setup and I accidently broke the check valve in the brake booster line while tapping into it. i needed to get a new one and it took some time. i don't know if the change in the vacuum line setup works yet (hope it does), but i'll find out tomorrow morning. like i said earlier it only stalls on cold starts. i did everything as your picture indicated and i'm pretty sure i did it right. i'll pm you some pictures if you have time to take a look at them.

i dunno why people are flaming, but i for one am very greatful for your help. thanx.

Wow, sorry to hear that man, I should have given you a warning about that check valve... didn't think anyone would actually hit it... kind of a slim chance considering how small it is. Unlucky.

Thanks for the kind words, let me know if I can ever help you out.
 
i actually hit the check valve too on accident, clipped the very tip of it. Used heavy cutters so it went right through it with pretty much no resistance. Luckily the actual valve still worked so I pushed it further down the tube and no problems.
 
great news, the car doesn't stall anymore. i started her up on a cold start, and no stalling, stuttering, bogging, or any hint of it. you're setup for the vacuum lines completely fixed the stalling. a million thanx.
 
kicker22705 said:
great news, the car doesn't stall anymore. i started her up on a cold start, and no stalling, stuttering, bogging, or any hint of it. you're setup for the vacuum lines completely fixed the stalling. a million thanx.

Awesome man, that IS great news. I was just kind of taking a shot in the dark there... for a little while I thought that it might be something more serious. That setup did wonders for my car too, IMO it is the best way to set up the vac lines. You might even notice better response from your wastegate now that it is on its own direct line.

The only thing that I think might be better is to run the wastegate from a new nipple welded onto the hardpipes. I haven't tried it yet, but I think I might end up trying that out next time the pipes are off.
 
i got a question for anyone who knows their properties on metal.

when i got my custom ic piping, i ordered stainless steel. i'm no metal expert but my piping looks like its rusting and i was under the impression stainless steel doesn't rust. i'm hoping i'm wrong and it isn't rusting but i need reassurance before i start bitching at my tuner shop for trying to rip me off.

this is what my pipes look like after just 2 days.
 

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