Canadian EGR valve exposed

Just installed the Canadian EGR valve and had the satisfaction of the CEL turning off.

Here are some tips:
1. The Canadian EGR valve is available for ~$107 from rockauto.com (look online for 5% off coupons). It's about $13 cheaper than the revised US EGR valve, but some people might rather pay $13 more for the ease of installation of the US valve.

2. Installing the EGR is a pain however you do it. The instructions included with the EGR valve are fussy (require removal of a transmission mount, draining the coolant, removing the throttle body, etc.) and I decided to ignore them.

3. To install the new EGR valve, I barely screwed in one bolt with the gasket and EGR valve (took several tries to maneuver it in). Then I aligned the gasket and screwed in the other bolt. Then tightened it all up.

3. The diagrams and pictures posted by theman on page 1 of this thread were essential to routing the coolant hoses correctly. The diagram is a bit low resolution but I studied it carefully and cross-checked it with the pictures. When I checked the car, it was pretty clear where things should go.

4. Only a few drops of coolant came out (I didn't drain the coolant) of the coolant connection at the IAC on the throttle body. Pretty easy to connect.

5. I traced the coolant hose just removed down to its other connection on the heater bypass pipe. This is hidden behind another hose and is really tough to access without removing the hose blocking it. I was able to use pliers to move the clamp on the hose up. Then some pulling/prying with a screwdriver and the hose came off. Coolant started spilling out of the connection, and I plugged it with one finger and used the other hand to quickly attach the hose to the EGR valve (this is the short hose closer to the front of the car.) Only about a cup of coolant spilled, but I would rather have drained the coolant to avoid this. Used thin-nosed pliers to move the clamp to the correct location/orientation. A flashlight was helpful for all this.

6. I routed the very long vent hose as shown in the diagram on page 1.

Total: about 1.5 hours of frustrating labor.
 
EGR valve (mazda part: FSY1-18-W00)

Folks,
Can anybody share "Mazda bulletin 01-07-17 issued 06/07"?
 
Instructions

Yep, I've been wondering where to get the technical bulletin too. Would I have to call a Mazda Dealer to know where to find them. Earlier in this thread, someone posted a link to a weird PDF site... I could not find it on there.

Any suggestions???
 
I just picked one up from the e-bay store, best price I could find. Man, how big a pita that was! I'm definitely glad it's done, now I won't have to worry about my EGR valve any more. Thanks for all the tips and pics OP and everyone else that contributed!
 
Does anyone know why I wouldn't be able to just install the valve for the 2.0 on the 1.6? They look similar enough that I think it might work, as long as they're compatible electrically.
 
And how about a 1998 1.5 Protege? I'm pulling my hair out with this stupid misfiring and rough idle. I cleaned the EGR valve until it looked new and it still does the same stuff when warm (pissed). Only codes are random miss, cyl 3 miss (plugs all look fine, it's not just one cylinder) and "fuel trim" which I found out through research here is actually a "boost" sensor (on an NA car, wat (pow)).
 
I'm seriously thinking about getting the Canadian EGR off ebay for cheap and installing it on my 1.6. While testing, would anyone see a reason why I couldn't just plug the coolant lines on the EGR short term? I really don't want to screw with the coolant lines before I know whether it will even work.
 
Shouldn't be a problem pluggin the lines short term. Have you compared EGR gaskets between the 1.6 and 2.0 to see if they are the same or close?
 
No, but as long as the bolt holes match, I'm confident I can make it work. I'm more worried about whether they're compatible electrically.
 
well i installed the canadian egr...almost...i just can't get a wrench in there to tighten the two bolts...any suggestions?
 
so i got the bolts in, finally, was able to reach the back one from under the car...what a royal pain! well, new egr and coil packs...started her up...runs awesome...and no cels!
 
well the cel is back!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm so pissed! p0401....$!%@!!@@!%$&*&@#*@(%
 
Hi guys great forum
I have a 2003 p5. I was driving to work and my check engine light started blinking. I had a big presentation to do and I didnt have time to pull over or get a tow to work so I kept driving for 5 mins with a blinking CEL and then the light stopped blinking and I made it to work. Luckily I keep my obd reader with me and pulled up code PO300. I knew it was probably the egr so I went home and cleaned the EGR (I still have the factory old school one) and reset the CEL and I havent gotten any CEL since. The problem I have now is that when I accelerate I hear a rattling noise coming from the catalytic converter under the car. I know I am dumb for driving with a blinking CEL. What I want to know is that if I take my car to mazda will they honor the 8year catalytic converter warranty or will I most likely have to pay $1000 for a new converter . I only have 80,000km on my car which is pretty low. Since the codes are cleared will mazda still be able to see that I had a po300 code?

Thanks
 
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