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Can you add power locks to 2010 Mazda 3 Sport?
- Thread starter Texstokes
- Start date
Hey Skou, I did the same thing and bought the kit from jason. I had the locks installed with a aftermarket alarm and it works fine but now the door ajar light is on forever now. For some reason when I leave my keys in the ignition and open my driver's side door it still makes the noise (which means the sensor could be working?) I think it might be wiring. You have any suggestion of what might be why? My installer did the own wiring because we thought there was supposed to be wiring for it but it turned out my model did not carry it. Jason also linked me a wiring harness for my car for 200 bucks. Would the install become easier with the harness and would it be capable with my aftermarket alarm?
If I understand correctly, you have two separate unrelated problems. One with the door ajar light being constantly on and the other with something happening when the driver's side door is open and the key is still in the ignition.
The "door ajar" switches are built into the latch assemblies, regardless of whether they have lock actuators or not, and the wiring for them comes with the car. As such, there would be no reason at all to have to tap into them.
What noise exactly do you hear when you open the drivers side door?
Which harness are you thinking of changing? The ones in the doors or the one in the dash? In any case, I doubt changing either would fix the situation since you went with an aftermarket alarm which has its own wiring harness that needs to be spliced into the car's harness.
Sounds like your installer screwed up and either you've got a short circuit or two somewhere, they tapped into the wrong wire(s) or both. I would suggest you go back to your installer and ask them to fix the problem.
The "door ajar" switches are built into the latch assemblies, regardless of whether they have lock actuators or not, and the wiring for them comes with the car. As such, there would be no reason at all to have to tap into them.
What noise exactly do you hear when you open the drivers side door?
Which harness are you thinking of changing? The ones in the doors or the one in the dash? In any case, I doubt changing either would fix the situation since you went with an aftermarket alarm which has its own wiring harness that needs to be spliced into the car's harness.
Sounds like your installer screwed up and either you've got a short circuit or two somewhere, they tapped into the wrong wire(s) or both. I would suggest you go back to your installer and ask them to fix the problem.
I only have one problem which is the door ajar light being on constantly. However I am saying that when I open the driver's door with the keys in the ignition it makes the usual sound telling the driver "HEY keys in the ignition". I would assume that the door ajar switches are working since it can detect that.
OK. It still sounds like one of the switches has been shorted out, telling the car's computer that that door is ajar all of the time. With the doors unlocked and the interior domelights set to "Door", try each one of the doors to see if the domelight comes on when you open it. Maybe that will tell you which door has the problem.
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I just tried it skou, i think i've narrowed it down to the two back doors because when i opened my driver's "door" and I turned the front light to door, the light was on. When I turned on the back light on "door" it would not turn on. I opened the back doors and the back light would not turn on. I would think it would be a wiring problem for the back doors, because it would be unlikely that the two locks shorted out. You said you looked at the wiring diagram on a website. Would that help my installer fix the issue? Is there a wire that feeds to the door ajar switch in each lock?
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Attached is the revised schematic which now includes the window comparator. Basically it sends a negative trigger signal to the lock relay when the input voltage is higher than 1.8 V and lower than 3.2 V.
Integrated circuit U1 is an automotive grade voltage regulator which supplies regulated 10 V power to the circuit. It should continue working with the car's battery partially drained down to about 10.5 V as well as when the battery is being charged by the alternator since its input is rated up to 26 V. Capacitors C1 and C2 are filters for the input and output.
Resistors R1, R2 and R3 form a voltage divider which provides reference voltages of 3.2 V and 1.8 V.
Integrated circuits U2 and U3 are voltage comparators. All they do is compare two voltages and output a negative signal when the input voltage is either lower or higher than the reference voltage, depending on how they are wired. Since the output of U3 is connected to the ground of U2, the output from U2 will only fire if U3's output also fires.
Transistor Q1 and resistor R4 form a solid state switch which when turned on sends the trigger signal to the relay. Diode D1 protects the circuit from feedback when the relay coil de-energizes.
Total parts cost about $15.
Integrated circuit U1 is an automotive grade voltage regulator which supplies regulated 10 V power to the circuit. It should continue working with the car's battery partially drained down to about 10.5 V as well as when the battery is being charged by the alternator since its input is rated up to 26 V. Capacitors C1 and C2 are filters for the input and output.
Resistors R1, R2 and R3 form a voltage divider which provides reference voltages of 3.2 V and 1.8 V.
Integrated circuits U2 and U3 are voltage comparators. All they do is compare two voltages and output a negative signal when the input voltage is either lower or higher than the reference voltage, depending on how they are wired. Since the output of U3 is connected to the ground of U2, the output from U2 will only fire if U3's output also fires.
Transistor Q1 and resistor R4 form a solid state switch which when turned on sends the trigger signal to the relay. Diode D1 protects the circuit from feedback when the relay coil de-energizes.
Total parts cost about $15.
Attachments
hey guys,
I just bought a 2010 Mazda 3i manual transmittion with power windows but no power locks. I removed the panel from the front passenger side to take a look and noticed that there is a harness with 2 wires connected to what it looks like the door latch one wire carried around 4.4V and the other one was ground. I was wondering what were these wires for..and whether these actuators could be used for power locks or would I need new ones. Also if anyone had wiring diagrams, or know where to find.
thanks in advance
hegel
I just bought a 2010 Mazda 3i manual transmittion with power windows but no power locks. I removed the panel from the front passenger side to take a look and noticed that there is a harness with 2 wires connected to what it looks like the door latch one wire carried around 4.4V and the other one was ground. I was wondering what were these wires for..and whether these actuators could be used for power locks or would I need new ones. Also if anyone had wiring diagrams, or know where to find.
thanks in advance
hegel
Those are for the door switch. Green-yellow is the signal wire. Black-white is ground. The door latch assemblies that come with the car are exactly the same as the ones with power actuators except they are missing the "guts" (i.e. motors, shafts and gears) inside of them.
You can print all of the wiring diagrams from Mazda's online manual:
http://www.mazdatechinfo.com/index.asp?country=USA
You can print all of the wiring diagrams from Mazda's online manual:
http://www.mazdatechinfo.com/index.asp?country=USA
Maz94Protege
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda 3i Sport
hey guys,
I just bought a 2010 Mazda 3i manual transmittion with power windows but no power locks. I removed the panel from the front passenger side to take a look and noticed that there is a harness with 2 wires connected to what it looks like the door latch one wire carried around 4.4V and the other one was ground. I was wondering what were these wires for..and whether these actuators could be used for power locks or would I need new ones. Also if anyone had wiring diagrams, or know where to find.
thanks in advance
hegel
You can get a Universal 4 door Power door lock kit. They run around $50 and Up, depending on what you looking for. We have a cableing lock kit system, so this means we need an adapter for each door and they are only an additional $7 per door.
Entire kit is like $75+ shipping.
AutoDax is the site im going through
Maz94Protege
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda 3i Sport
Well i just tried this same thing, the door panels come off very easily the cable lock adapter kit is simple to install. The hangup is there is almost no where to install the actuator. The new doorpanels are so slim and there is a plastic insulator (instead of the old plastic in previous mazdas, holding the electronics to the backside of the door.
Spent 2.5 hrs trying different things (without cutting the plastic in the doors) to get them to fit. Fortunately i called the company and the will refund my full amount.
If anyone did get these to work, or had someone else install them. can you PLEASE take a door panel off and take a picture of the install. Id love to get these to work..... but patience is up, and no one has posted install pictures yet (to date).
Thanks.
Spent 2.5 hrs trying different things (without cutting the plastic in the doors) to get them to fit. Fortunately i called the company and the will refund my full amount.
If anyone did get these to work, or had someone else install them. can you PLEASE take a door panel off and take a picture of the install. Id love to get these to work..... but patience is up, and no one has posted install pictures yet (to date).
Thanks.
PsychoMisfit
Member
I worked on one aftermarket actuator for two hours as well with no luck and ive been installing these things professionally for over 10 years now. Im going with OEM. Does anyone know if the factory actuators run on 12v or less?
Maz94Protege
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda 3i Sport
There is the harness already there, i believe the relay needs to be installed with the actuator. The harness is plugged into a dead spot behind the manual door locks. So when you pull/push the locks (manually) they would initiate the power locked to lock/unlock.
Thats just from observing the setup when my doors were off. I gave up on tearing it down to do custom power locks. Ill survive with the manual locks.
...... I did see one guy online here that did the factory locks (on his 1st gen i Sport) and cost him $1,200, buying part by part.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/show...da3-Base-Model-Adding-Power-Windows-and-Locks
Thats just from observing the setup when my doors were off. I gave up on tearing it down to do custom power locks. Ill survive with the manual locks.
...... I did see one guy online here that did the factory locks (on his 1st gen i Sport) and cost him $1,200, buying part by part.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/show...da3-Base-Model-Adding-Power-Windows-and-Locks
So there is at least electrical power in the door already? I bought the factory actuator, the factory replacement handle and the factory switch, too. Since I have no alarm and no RKE, I figured I could just use 12v power to the actuator controlled by the factory switch, and connect the Clifford alarm to that.
^^^This makes it sound like I don't need the factory switch at all?
So when you pull/push the locks (manually) they would initiate the power locked to lock/unlock.
^^^This makes it sound like I don't need the factory switch at all?
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Maz94Protege
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda 3i Sport
Yea, exactly, i dont know what you would need. The link above is for a 1st gen. But my car does have some empty harness', no idea what they goto. Without a wiring diagram, i did not go further to investigate what they were for.
I just gave up....for now on the locks. maybe in a year ill find a tottalled 3 "S" and get the parts off it from the salvage yard.
I just gave up....for now on the locks. maybe in a year ill find a tottalled 3 "S" and get the parts off it from the salvage yard.
Yea, exactly, i dont know what you would need. The link above is for a 1st gen. But my car does have some empty harness', no idea what they goto. Without a wiring diagram, i did not go further to investigate what they were for.
I just gave up....for now on the locks. maybe in a year ill find a tottalled 3 "S" and get the parts off it from the salvage yard.
I am at the point now where I will just have to to take the door apart and see for myself. All that I have read leads me to believe that the actuator harness is there (not sure if it has power already in it or not) and that the harness for the switch is not. The switch is a 4 pin, and I don't know the pins. My plan was to install the actuator and plug in its harness and use the door handle manual lock button to see if I can tell if the actuator has power, or test that harness with a meter.
My overall plan is just to power the actuator in the door, and control it with the door switch, or door manual button, and also connect my Clifford alarm to it.
I hope I am on the right track.
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