Calling all MS3 Owners with smoking Turbos...

The engine flush solution makes it smoke. The guy didn't prove anything. There's NO need to get an "engine flush" done on a ******* new or barely used car. I would never put that crap in my engine. Seafoam maybe but even that wouldn't be until 75k on the odometer.

he didnt prove anything. i'm just saying it proves it that if my turbo is smoking and my last cat, which is a high flow, is hiding it.. it would have manifested long time ago. I'm just basically saying my high flow cat is not hiding anything. My turbo is not smoking....it was just because of the flush that's why it smoked. Hey why not? it made my car run smoother. It flushed out the sludge. barely used car? haha two auto cross, three drag strip trips and floggin it almost everyday doesnt make this car a barely used or a "******* new" car.
 
I've had a full TBE for a long time now and no smoke...

I've been playing with a MBC lately; I wanted to increase my boost to 18PSI max...

Lately, I've been noticing my car has a very light smoke occassionally. A puff here and there. I think I may have accelerated the death of my turbo...

How many of the failed turbos had the boost turned up?
 
Turbo cars will let out puffs of smoke under accel. My car doesnt smoke, but occasionally when starting from a low gear at a low rpm, I believe my car runs super rich, and someone thought I had a diesel;) That only happened once. All stock speeds I have followed smoked alittle under hard accel, I believe this is more due to the richness of the fuel and not so much the turbo.
 
Turbo cars will let out puffs of smoke under accel. My car doesnt smoke, but occasionally when starting from a low gear at a low rpm, I believe my car runs super rich, and someone thought I had a diesel;) That only happened once. All stock speeds I have followed smoked alittle under hard accel, I believe this is more due to the richness of the fuel and not so much the turbo.

I'm not talking about black smoke... White smoke... And its not during driving. Its while pulling out of the driveway after letting it idle for a few minutes.
 
I'm not talking about black smoke... White smoke... And its not during driving. Its while pulling out of the driveway after letting it idle for a few minutes.

I just finished putting on the reworked K04 (not bombing on the reworked K04, just explaining my scenario), but I seem to be still smoking. Not so much at idle. Somewhat of times a puff of white smoke appears. At idle, if I put on the AC, forget it white smoke all day. When I decrease in speed and let off the gas, some puffs of smoke appear also. I am also wondering why my AFR's read more @ 15.3 - 16.0. I am thinking I can have a blown head gasket or even loss of compression. I would be pissed if it can be the seals again. I don't know, maybe doubt it I will get the car checked out by a local mazda tech.

Please note that I have a DP catless exhuast all the way through...
 
Please note that I have a DP catless exhuast all the way through...

you will never, especially without tuning, eliminate all smoke once you have no catalytic convertors, regardless of turbo.

. I am also wondering why my AFR's read more @ 15.3 - 16.0. I am thinking I can have a blown head gasket or even loss of compression. I would be pissed if it can be the seals again. I don't know, maybe doubt it I will get the car checked out by a local mazda tech.

if you had a blown head gasket or compression loss your car would hardly idle, consume coolant and oil and run pretty awfully. i would check for pressure and vacuum leaks as well as exhaust leaks. we have found when replacing components like downpipes, turbos, intercoolers, manifolds that if there is even a slight leak the car will lean out. relates to it being a MAF based system among other reasons.
 
Im almost wondering, could this problem be caused by our oil feed restrictor? Has anyone looked at this to see how large the hole is, maybe somehow it was forgotten to be added in some turbos. I assume its built into the line or turbo. But this may be a cause of the smoking turbo, too much oil pressure getting to the turbo internals.
 
i smoke pretty bad at idle after driving hard. i just changed my oil for the second time (5200 miles) and i put in some stop smoke with the oil. i will let you know what happens. i dont think its a turbo thing because i just installed my front mount and i pulled off the dp and there was no excessive oil signs in the turbo. my next step is an occ to see if its the poor crankcase ventilation system.
 
Im almost wondering, could this problem be caused by our oil feed restrictor? Has anyone looked at this to see how large the hole is, maybe somehow it was forgotten to be added in some turbos. I assume its built into the line or turbo. But this may be a cause of the smoking turbo, too much oil pressure getting to the turbo internals.


i have read a lot about audi's with the K04 adding an oil feed restrictor to solve their turbo seal problems. i know we don't have the exact same K04 but does anyone know if we do have an oil feed restrictor as this may be the problem?
 
  1. Oil Inside the Turbo
    Engine oil under pressure enters the bearing housing through the oil inlet supply line. The oil lubricates the bearing and journal surfaces where it picks up heat from the exhaust turbine and as a result of oil turbulence internal in the bearing, air tends to get entrained in the oil. The oil then exits the turbine bearing sump through the drain line (in many cases a gravity drain line) back to the oil reservoir (crankcase). If any thing causes a restriction to this drain line, foamy, air entrained oil will backup into the bearing housing until it is higher than the oil seals on the turbine shaft. The oil (oil mist) can leak into the compressor side of the housing and get carried into the engine under boost and get burned with the fuel mixture.
  2. Oil at Compressor Inlet / Outlet
    A too small capacity air filter (or one restricted by dirt) can allow the air velocity through an oiled filter to carry over the oil into the compressor inlet. This would be evident only on the compressor outlet. Correction is to remove the restriction at the air filter.
  3. Oil at Compressor Outlet
    A dry type filter will have increased restriction as it becomes dirty. This results in a pressure drop across the filter. Under engine loading, a positive pressure exists at the oil seal behind the compressor impeller so the pressure drop is not noticed. However, in an unloaded engine, ie idle or at low rpm, a potential exists where a partial vacuum occurs at the compressor inlet and behind the compressor impeller simultaneously. If this condition is present for any length of time, it can cause oil to be sucked from the bearing housing through the oil seal and into the compressor housing and then into the engine intake. A differential pressure gauge mounted between the air cleaner and the turbocharger is an excellent method to measure too much intake restriction.
 
Another smoking turbo-
2007
26000 miles
Dead stock
I just noticed it tonight while than I was waiting in line at a Sonic drive-through. The car had been idling less than five minutes.
 
ok im smoking..... 2007 ms3 24000 mi...cp-e dp, cp-e cb, injen cai, ts bov, street unit motor mount.... im getting a bad feeling abuout this cars.. i read 36 pages of this ...
 
i think some of you that have the smoking turbo problem should try and heavier oil weight and see what happens.
 
i think some of you that have the smoking turbo problem should try and heavier oil weight and see what happens.
i think there is some good theory here, depending on the amount of oil smoke or actual oil disappearing from the crankcase.
 
what kind of heavier weight? I am a noob about oils. I just put on my DP and CBE about a week ago, and have smoking. Im using 10w30 Mobile 1. Changed about a month ago, should i use a different oil?

2007 MS3
202xx miles

CS TBE, Cobb SRI, MM
 
I did not look too far back to see if you have big smoke issues as this is the longest unresolved thread of all time. Do you smoke black or blue? Or white when cold outside? The blue is oil and does not care much what temperature it is outside but will respond to engine temp, and is a concern, the black is rich with fuel and not to panic, you need a tuning though. The White is moisture or water vapor. We have had some cold mornings lately and my rear window steams up on the outside, with my turbo back, no cats, exhaust. No problem with that. 10-30 is a slightly thicker oil than the recommended 5-30 while still easy on cold starts and pretty slippery stuff. I would suggest your oil is fine for the car. I think to prove this out a heavier oil would need to be used, but in a warm climate like Texas or Florida. We could talk more about oils but it might be for a differnt thread. Comments, bova80?
 

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