if copper for sure check this, any other type you do not gap, as that can flake or scar the platinum or iridium plating
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Bucking @ 3000 rpms under acceleration
- Thread starter mikkim129
- Start date
if copper for sure check this, any other type you do not gap, as that can flake or scar the platinum or iridium plating
The NGK ones should come perfect... you can eye ball them to make sure they haven't been damaged, but they shouldn't need to be gapped.
he is right, the copper ngk should be right, and the platinum double platinum and iridiums come at .044 which is perfect
The NGK ones should come perfect... you can eye ball them to make sure they haven't been damaged, but they shouldn't need to be gapped.
nope...not at all A L W A Y S check gapping 28 -32
Last edited:
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
nope...not at all A L W A Y S check gapping 28 -32
That's turbo gap, n/a will be .044"
That's turbo gap, n/a will be .044"
I've been schooled!.
How many miles?
Replace your coil packs!
They're 25.99 a piece and probably need to be changed anyways. Mine were shot at 125k but the 01 protege i had before were shot at 90k. they're a common problem and will cause a bucking/misfire. sometimes it wont throw a code and sometimes it will.
well over 125k
Update
Changed wires and 1 coil pack.
The problem got better but slight bucking once in a while @ 3000 RPMs but now it will only do it 3/4 to WOT
Then I switched out the other coil pack and it seemed to be a little worse.
irritating part. I went to orieleys and picked up a life time warranty coil pack. Installed it and it ran like crap. Code came in saying #2 misfire. Pulled the new coil pack and the lower boot got stuck on the hole.
Took me 2 hours to get it out. Took it back and got another one but this one was only a 1yr warranty. It was almost an inch longer(the boot) than the life time. I think it must have been the wrong part.
The NGK ones should come perfect... you can eye ball them to make sure they haven't been damaged, but they shouldn't need to be gapped.
I did check the gap on the new plugs. I remember it was a little tight so .044 sounds about where I set it
, a good way is get a code scanner with live data and rev it to 3k rpm while watching data and see what engine load, throttle position ect do. how bad is the bucking? is it really hard almost killing engine? or just barely noticeable? or in between? it could be a cam or crankshaft position sensor as well, though those usually set codes and/or cause hard or no start conditions or engine dying while driving but a weak or failing one can cause your issues.
Wold I be able to use a scanner while I drive?
My problem is only under load/ acceleration.
I can rev the engine all day long parked and never get the bucking
The bucking seems kinda hard but its very quick
hesitation at 3000 rpms
I have exact same issues. Does anybody know if a solution was found?
1st time posting
I tried searching but found nothing that actually fixed the problem. I mostly found suggestions but most seem way wrong.
Its my wifes protege 5
Only when the car is warm we will get a bucking/ jerking at 3000 rpms when we are under acceleration. Once we get over 3000 rpms there are no problems. This happens in all gears right at 3000 rpms and when its warm. It feels like it just looses power for a split second and it could happen 1-3 times as we pull through and past 3000rpms
It started a month or so ago and seems to become a little more common.
Heres what I've done since
Changed plugs- didn't help
Replaced muffler- seems it happens more
Tried to find vaccuum leaks and I found none
Check codes and none showed up
Right now I'm having battery issues so I pulled the battery and I guess it will reset the computer.
Other people with the problem are always told to change the coil packs and that never seems to fix it
Any ideas?????
I have exact same issues. Does anybody know if a solution was found?
Last edited:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...FIXED!!!!!!!&p=6269738&highlight=#post6269738
here is what fixed the car
here is what fixed the car
I had a similar problem. My car 2002 P5 manual trans was bucking/hesitating. The timing belt tensioner spring had come off and was squished between the cover and the belt. The mechanic suspects that the last person who changed the timing belt, cheaped out and used the old spring instead of a new one.
Want to reply to this post for any people finding this same problem is happening to them. It is your timing being off. Also replace timing belt and tensioner spring as belt and spring get stretched. This fixed the problem thanks to mikimm129 letting me know how he solved the issue.
Clean your inspection mirror & grab your flashlight. Inspect the rubber air intake tube that clamps to your MAF and feeds air to the throttle valve, paying particular attention to the flexible, accordion-like section in the middle. Look for cracks in the rubber. If there are any, it will cause the car to buck like a wild bronco, typically in the 2500 - 3500 rpm range. The engine is getting heated, un-metered air through the cracks. When the cracks are severe enough, you'll get a Check Engine light. On a stock P5, the tube is made from normal rubber, nothing fancy that would resist heat degradation, and the flexible section gets a lot of vibration, hence the failure. If the car was driven with this condition for awhile, even just a few days, take a real good look at the passenger side engine mount (upper right side). There's a pretty good chance that it is separated inside the rubber insulator. If your P5 is a 5-speed, do not waste your time & money on the cheap motor mounts found on Amazon & E-Bay. They do not fit. You'll need the Mazda OEM part #BL3K3906YA for the correct part (Mount, Protg 2.0L, side, manual trans). BTW, the Dorman replacement air intake tube fits correctly, runs about $30 on Amazon.com. R2 takes about 30 minutes or so. Easy fix for a severe drive-ability problem.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 4
- Views
- 2K