2013~2016: Broken Driver (Rear) Strut/Shock Absorber

[Digbicks1234]

Hi All,

It's that time a year again when something breaks in my car (approximately 86k miles) and I need to replace it. When I was driving, I noticed a clunking/thumping noise when rolling over bumps/uneven pavement. At first, I thought it was something in my trunk causing this noise but after inspecting the shock absorbers, I noticed that the driver side did not look like the passenger side. I am guessing it's a bushing or something but I am not entirely sure. When I was digging around the Mazda parts sites, it appears that there are (2) variations of the same strut with one being more expensive. If anyone can provide some more context to my questions, that would be greatly appreciated!

Parts I am purchasing:
(x2) Shock Mount Bolt (9YA0-21-450)
(x2) Shock Washer (KD45-28-999)
(x2) Shock Mount Nut (9YB0-41-033)
(x2) KD35-28-910K or KA0G-28-910G

Questions:

1. What is the difference between (KD35-28-910K) & (KA0G-28-910G)? They seem relatively similar with one that costs $84.08 and the other that costs $119.31.
2. Is there anything else that I need to replace aside from the strut mounts for both the driver and passenger as they are a pair?
3. Is there any tips/tricks for replacing rear struts or is it pretty straight forward? I was looking at the service manual and it appears that I may need to use the jack stand to lift up the rear lower control arms in order to install the rear shock absorber upper nuts.

2015-2016 Mazda CX-5 Suspension Shock Absorber KA0G-28-910G | Mazda-Parts

2015-2016 Mazda CX-5 Suspension Shock Absorber KA0G-28-910G

www.mazda-parts.com

2013-2016 Mazda CX-5 Shock Absorber KD35-28-910K | Mazda-Parts

2013-2016 Mazda CX-5 Shock Absorber KD35-28-910K

www.mazda-parts.com

Driver (Rear) Shock Absorber

Passenger (Rear) Shock Absorber

 

[yrwei52]

Hi All,

It's that time a year again when something breaks in my car (approximately 86k miles) and I need to replace it. When I was driving, I noticed a clunking/thumping noise when rolling over bumps/uneven pavement. At first, I thought it was something in my trunk causing this noise but after inspecting the shock absorbers, I noticed that the driver side did not look like the passenger side. I am guessing it's a bushing or something but I am not entirely sure. When I was digging around the Mazda parts sites, it appears that there are (2) variations of the same strut with one being more expensive. If anyone can provide some more context to my questions, that would be greatly appreciated!

Parts I am purchasing:
(x2) Shock Mount Bolt (9YA0-21-450)
(x2) Shock Washer (KD45-28-999)
(x2) Shock Mount Nut (9YB0-41-033)
(x2) KD35-28-910K or KA0G-28-910G

Questions:

1. What is the difference between (KD35-28-910K) & (KA0G-28-910G)? They seem relatively similar with one that costs $84.08 and the other that costs $119.31.
2. Is there anything else that I need to replace aside from the strut mounts for both the driver and passenger as they are a pair?
3. Is there any tips/tricks for replacing rear struts or is it pretty straight forward? I was looking at the service manual and it appears that I may need to use the jack stand to lift up the rear lower control arms in order to install the rear shock absorber upper nuts.

2015-2016 Mazda CX-5 Suspension Shock Absorber KA0G-28-910G | Mazda-Parts

2015-2016 Mazda CX-5 Suspension Shock Absorber KA0G-28-910G

www.mazda-parts.com

2013-2016 Mazda CX-5 Shock Absorber KD35-28-910K | Mazda-Parts

2013-2016 Mazda CX-5 Shock Absorber KD35-28-910K

www.mazda-parts.com

Driver (Rear) Shock Absorber
View attachment 304492
View attachment 304493

Passenger (Rear) Shock Absorber
View attachment 304490
View attachment 304491

Looks like your 2016.5 CX-5 Touring AWD has a broken rear shock top mount. This’s a common issue, and here’s another thread for the same problem just posted last Friday:

2016 GT Broken rear upper strut mount

Confused on OEM part numbers for rear shock absorbers on CX-5?

CX-5 Strut/Shock replacement

It surprised me that there’re so many versions of OEM rear shock absorbers on CX-5 for different MY’s and FWD / AWD. On the other hand, KYB listed only 2 for CX-5, 349219 to 5/13/2013 and 3440013 from 5/13/2013 up to 2018 MY.

There were design changes along the years on OEM rear shock absorbers which does get confused. So for OEM rear shocks, the best way is to use VIN with Mazda parts department to get correct p/n for the CX-5.

For OEM rear shock absorbers. #24 in the diagram, here are part numbers for gen-1 CX-5:

View attachment 229025


KDY5-28-910C Shock absorber for 2013 ~ 2014 Mazda CX-5 to 5/13/13.

KR27-28-910H Shock absorber for 2014 ~ 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 from 5/13/13, Type 2, without AWD.

KD35-28-910K Shock absorber for 2014 ~ 2015 Mazda CX-5 from 5/13/13, Type 1, with AWD.

KA0G-28-910G Shock absorber for 2015 ~ 2016.5 CX-5 from 11/03/2014, with AWD.

For OEM rear shock absorbers and shock top mount, #1 and #4 in the diagram, here are part numbers for gen-2 CX-5:

View attachment 229026

KB7W-28-700B Damper rear for 2017 CX-5 to 06/22/2017, with FWD.

KL2F-28-700A Damper rear for 2017 ~ current CX-5 from 06/22/2017.

KL2G-28-700A Damper rear for 2017 ~ current CX-5 from 06/22/2017.

TK48-28-380C Shock mount for 2017 CX-5 to 10/01/2017.

TK52-28-380C Shock mount for 2017 ~ current CX-5 from 10/01/2017.

And here’s a TSB listing several different rear shocks with new part numbers used on the Mazda CX-5:

TSB No.: 02-007/20 OIL SEEPAGE / LEAKAGE FROM REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS

You can get CX-3’s top mount to replace the broken one on the CX-5 according to FrankGMS, or you can get new OEM rear shock which includes the top mount. After-market rear shocks don’t include the top mount.

Now to your questions:

1. KD35-28-910K Shock absorber is for 2014 ~ 2015 Mazda CX-5 with AWD from 5/13/13. KA0G-28-910G is for 2015 ~ 2016.5 CX-5 from 11/03/2014, with AWD. Of course you can always use your VIN to verify the correct shock absorbers from Mazda dealers. Yes the OEM rear shock absorbers used to be at ~$90 each, now apparently there’s a big price jump on these.

2. In addition to entire rear shock absorber, most people reuse the bolts and nuts unless the Workshop Manual says “R”.

3. Read the thread posted above and do the search in the forum. Watch the videos on YT made by felixd and others. There’re plenty of info for rear shock replacement. Some say, such as PatrickGSR94, lower the control arm to take out the spring isn’t needed, but others insist that’s required, or at least more convenient to remove the shock.

 

[Digbicks1234]

Looks like your 2016.5 CX-5 Touring AWD has a broken rear shock top mount. This’s a common issue, and here’s another thread for the same problem just posted last Friday:

2016 GT Broken rear upper strut mount

Confused on OEM part numbers for rear shock absorbers on CX-5?

CX-5 Strut/Shock replacement



And here’s a TSB listing several different rear shocks with new part numbers used on the Mazda CX-5:

TSB No.: 02-007/20 OIL SEEPAGE / LEAKAGE FROM REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS

View attachment 304505
You can get CX-3’s top mount to replace the broken one on the CX-5 according to FrankGMS, or you can get new OEM rear shock which includes the top mount. After-market rear shocks don’t include the top mount.

Now to your questions:

1. KD35-28-910K Shock absorber is for 2014 ~ 2015 Mazda CX-5 with AWD from 5/13/13. KA0G-28-910G is for 2015 ~ 2016.5 CX-5 from 11/03/2014, with AWD. Of course you can always use your VIN to verify the correct shock absorbers from Mazda dealers. Yes the OEM rear shock absorbers used to be at ~$90 each, now apparently there’s a big price jump on these.

2. In addition to entire rear shock absorber, most people reuse the bolts and nuts unless the Workshop Manual says “R”.

3. Read the thread posted above and do the search in the forum. Watch the videos on YT made by felixd and others. There’re plenty of info for rear shock replacement. Some say, such as PatrickGSR94, lower the control arm to take out the spring isn’t needed, but others insist that’s required, or at least more convenient to remove the shock.

I was working on the passenger side rear shock absorber today and I seem to have run into a few interesting issues as I am unable to successfully remove the bottom bolt for the shock absorber. No issues with the upper (x2) nuts as I had a clear line of sight and good leverage. Since clearance was an issue for the lower bolt, I decided to remove the below items circled in the below picture (Items Removed).

Summary:

• 1/2 17 mm deep socket is too big to fit on the lower bolt without removing rear coil springs
• 1/2 17 mm regular socket is too big as well to fit on the lower bolt
• 3/8 17 mm flare nut does not have enough leverage to remove the lower bolt
• Removed the rear coil spring for more leverage
• Rear shock absorber is being compressed when attempting to loosen

Observations:
The 1/2 drive 17 mm (deep socket) will not fit on top of the bolt as the rear coil spring is in the way and I do not have enough leverage for the 3/8 17 mm flare nut/regular socket as it is being blocked by the rear bumper/brake line and the minimal clearance from the lower control arm + spring itself. After removing the springs + items holding the lower control arm into place, I finally had enough clearance to access the bottom bolt with my 1/2 17 mm deep socket/regular socket but this time, it seems that the rear shock absorber kept being compressed when I tried to loosen it. This leads me to believe that the bolt is either seized due to the rust or something else.

In all of the videos I've watched on removing the shock absorbers including the ones pertaining to the CX-5, I would say that most if not all of the people were using an impact wrench and no issues with clearance. I think I'm doing something wrong here but I ended up purchasing a more compact Milwaukee impact wrench to see how far I'll go tomorrow. The new issue that I think I'll run into is the length of the 17 mm deep socket as the regular socket is too small to go over the whole bolt due to the elongated stud protruding out more than usual.

Items Removed:

Progress:

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ In all of the videos I've watched on removing the shock absorbers including the ones pertaining to the CX-5, I would say that most if not all of the people were using an impact wrench and no issues with clearance.

I believe you’re correct. ruthrj also removed springs and used an impact wrench replacing his rear shocks. And the impact socket he used seems to have no space issues.

CX-5 Strut/Shock replacement

In addition, from your past write-ups I can see your 2016.5 CX-5 seems to have under-carriage rust issues so the frozen bolt at the lower end of shock is very likely. Try to apply more WD-40 may be?

Are you going to fix the broken top mount with new OEM rear shock, or just get a top mount from CX-30?

 

[Digbicks1234]

I believe you’re correct. ruthrj also removed springs and used an impact wrench replacing his rear shocks. And the impact socket he used seems to have no space issues.

CX-5 Strut/Shock replacement

In addition, from your past write-ups I can see your 2016.5 CX-5 seems to have under-carriage rust issues so the frozen bolt at the lower end of shock is very likely. Try to apply more WD-40 may be?

Are you going to fix the broken top mount with new OEM rear shock, or just get a top mount from CX-30?

Alright, I got the bottom bolt off using the impact gun but now I cannot slide the shock absorber off no matter how much lubrication/hammering with a chisel and using a jack to lift up the control arm. It seems like the built in rubber bushing/washer is seized to the stud itself. I can slide the actual shock absorber left right/up and down just fine but the bushings on both sides are stuck.......

I got a pair of brand new shock absorbers that have the upper mount to make things easier. The only thing I can think of doing right now is purchasing an air hammer/air compressor to remove it. Honestly, with all of this money and time spent, I think I would've been better off just paying the mechanic to do this job. It seems relatively easy when you look at the service manual but when you have to factor in rust + clearance, it's just not worth it IMO.....

 

[yrwei52]

Alright, I got the bottom bolt off using the impact gun but now I cannot slide the shock absorber off no matter how much lubrication/hammering with a chisel and using a jack to lift up the control arm. It seems like the built in rubber bushing/washer is seized to the stud itself. I can slide the actual shock absorber left right/up and down just fine but the bushings on both sides are stuck.......

I got a pair of brand new shock absorbers that have the upper mount to make things easier. The only thing I can think of doing right now is purchasing an air hammer/air compressor to remove it. Honestly, with all of this money and time spent, I think I would've been better off just paying the mechanic to do this job. It seems relatively easy when you look at the service manual but when you have to factor in rust + clearance, it's just not worth it IMO.....

Did you get OEM shock with top mount? I don’t believe there’s any aftermarket shocks which comes with top mount?

All things considered with rust and sized bottom bolt (nut?) and bushing, yes take the job to a mechanic is a better deal. But the good thing is now you have an air gun and air hammer on your garage, that is something to be proud of as a DIYer!

When I lived in Midwest, every task for under-carriage and suspension have to deal the rust issue which is really a pain. Now I’m in Texas I’m glad I don’t have to deal such problem anymore.

 

[Jmaz]

In lieu of an air hammer, would a gear puller work to push the stud through the bushing. Otherwise heat and lubrication might work.

 

[Jack Rabbit]

I was working on the passenger side rear shock absorber today and I seem to have run into a few interesting issues as I am unable to successfully remove the bottom bolt for the shock absorber. No issues with the upper (x2) nuts as I had a clear line of sight and good leverage. Since clearance was an issue for the lower bolt, I decided to remove the below items circled in the below picture (Items Removed).

Summary:

• 1/2 17 mm deep socket is too big to fit on the lower bolt without removing rear coil springs
• 1/2 17 mm regular socket is too big as well to fit on the lower bolt
• 3/8 17 mm flare nut does not have enough leverage to remove the lower bolt
• Removed the rear coil spring for more leverage
• Rear shock absorber is being compressed when attempting to loosen

Observations:
The 1/2 drive 17 mm (deep socket) will not fit on top of the bolt as the rear coil spring is in the way and I do not have enough leverage for the 3/8 17 mm flare nut/regular socket as it is being blocked by the rear bumper/brake line and the minimal clearance from the lower control arm + spring itself. After removing the springs + items holding the lower control arm into place, I finally had enough clearance to access the bottom bolt with my 1/2 17 mm deep socket/regular socket but this time, it seems that the rear shock absorber kept being compressed when I tried to loosen it. This leads me to believe that the bolt is either seized due to the rust or something else.

In all of the videos I've watched on removing the shock absorbers including the ones pertaining to the CX-5, I would say that most if not all of the people were using an impact wrench and no issues with clearance. I think I'm doing something wrong here but I ended up purchasing a more compact Milwaukee impact wrench to see how far I'll go tomorrow. The new issue that I think I'll run into is the length of the 17 mm deep socket as the regular socket is too small to go over the whole bolt due to the elongated stud protruding out more than usual.

Items Removed:

View attachment 305128

Progress:
View attachment 305129
View attachment 305130View attachment 305131View attachment 305132View attachment 305133View attachment 305134

If you were planning on keeping for awhile, you should use rust converter/primer on the rusted areas, let dry for 2 days or more(longer the better) then spray the entire underside with fluid film.

Had a Toyota in 90's that was ziebarted (only once, continuous overlap of rubberized coatings will trap in the dirt, moisture and rust)...at 13 years and over 200 k miles, frame was still in great shape.

Bought a Mercury mariner next, Ford dealership touted it had new type of treated undercarriage that was rust resistant, etc. At 14 years & approx 180k miles, the engine & transmission still ok but frame rusted out beyond repair.

The 3 year old 2018 cpo Mazda just purchased got rust converter on a few small areas then fluid filmed.

* Although the ziebart rubberized coating worked well in the past, Fluid film is supposed to be the best on the market now.

And the cost to do this is cheap...less than $100 in spray rust converter/primer, & fluid film plus your time.
I'm guessing it might cost you $200 to $300 to pay someone which is still relatively cheap.

Below is pic of 2018 cx5 with fluid film.

 

[Digbicks1234]

Did you get OEM shock with top mount? I don’t believe there’s any aftermarket shocks which comes with top mount?

All things considered with rust and sized bottom bolt (nut?) and bushing, yes take the job to a mechanic is a better deal. But the good thing is now you have an air gun and air hammer on your garage, that is something to be proud of as a DIYer!

When I lived in Midwest, every task for under-carriage and suspension have to deal the rust issue which is really a pain. Now I’m in Texas I’m glad I don’t have to deal such problem anymore.

It's been a while since I last visited this thread but I did get the OEM rear shocks with the top mounts. I am not sure about the aftermarket ones but the shocks weren't expensive enough for me to justify going aftermarket.

I ended up paying a mechanic to do the job since it was freezing and the strut bushing was seized. Honestly, I was very close to taking it off but gave in as I seemed to be spending more money than I was saving.

It sounds like it would be a good idea to coat the underbody of my car if I ever decide to get a new vehicle as the Mazda's rust a lot due to the road salt that is used in the east coast.

In lieu of an air hammer, would a gear puller work to push the stud through the bushing. Otherwise heat and lubrication might work.

I ended up just paying the mechanic as the bushing was fully seized. Tried hammering it and chiseling it and nothing seemed to work but if I had more time, I would've probably just cut it off like the guy did. I'm afraid that it might explode if I heat it up

If you were planning on keeping for awhile, you should use rust converter/primer on the rusted areas, let dry for 2 days or more(longer the better) then spray the entire underside with fluid film.

Had a Toyota in 90's that was ziebarted (only once, continuous overlap of rubberized coatings will trap in the dirt, moisture and rust)...at 13 years and over 200 k miles, frame was still in great shape.

Bought a Mercury mariner next, Ford dealership touted it had new type of treated undercarriage that was rust resistant, etc. At 14 years & approx 180k miles, the engine & transmission still ok but frame rusted out beyond repair.

The 3 year old 2018 cpo Mazda just purchased got rust converter on a few small areas then fluid filmed.

* Although the ziebart rubberized coating worked well in the past, Fluid film is supposed to be the best on the market now.

And the cost to do this is cheap...less than $100 in spray rust converter/primer, & fluid film plus your time.
I'm guessing it might cost you $200 to $300 to pay someone which is still relatively cheap.

Below is pic of 2018 cx5 with fluid film.

I was looking into some of the rust converters/underbody sprays and most of them aside from fluid film appear to be very toxic when reading the warning labels like rust-oleum which claims to cause blood damage. I think it's a bit too late for this current CX-5 since it has about 95k on it but I'll definitely consider it for my next vehicle.

https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/248658.pdf

EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE - CHRONIC HAZARDS: May cause central nervous system disorder (e.g., narcosis involving a loss of coordination, weakness, fatigue, mental confusion, and blurred vision) and/or damage. High concentrations may lead to central nervous system effects (drowsiness, dizziness, nausea, headaches, paralysis, and blurred vision) and/or damage. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. Overexposure to xylene in laboratory animals has been associated with liver abnormalities, kidney, lung, spleen, eye and blood damage as well as reproductive disorders. Effects in humans, due to chronic overexposure, have included liver, cardiac abnormalities and nervous system damage. Contains carbon black. Chronic inflammation, lung fibrosis, and lung tumors have been observed in some rats experimentally exposed for long periods of time to excessive concentrations of carbon black and several insoluble fine dust particles. Tumors have not been observed in other animal species (i.e., mouse and hamster) under similar circumstances and study conditions. Epidemiological studies of North American workers show no evidence of clinically significant adverse health effects due to occupational exposure to carbon black.