Bogging and hesitating in first gear Issue

Russm

Member
:
08 MS3
Good Day
My 08 MS3 with 59K miles has been sitting for about 3 months, just moving it to alternative sides of the road to avoid tickets. I have had a coed before that Mazda said was an ERG Flow coed that had to do with a flash I needed that they said would cost $100 . I first got the coed at 34K. I ask them would it affect engine or performanceand they said no just a glitch in the software, I told them they were crazy and no sale if the car needed it it is under warranty, they wouldnt budge!!! The car runs great (13.59 / 105MPH)
It only turned on about 3 times from 34K till now and I just disconnected battery lead to clear each time.
2 days ago I moved my car and the engine light came on so I did the same thing and cleared it. Yesterday I drove the car about 6 miles and 3 times when starting from a stop the engine bogged and hesitated. I thought maybe it needed a little more of a spirited run for learning purposes so I put another 10 miles or so pretty much WOT.
When I got home and parked it the engine light came on again so I cleared it this morning and went for a rapid drive and noticed a couple hesitations in 2nd and then the engine light came on.
Has anyone experience this type of behavior?
Before I go to the dealership and they try to sell me on that Flash again I would like to know if anyone else has had this issue and what they found it was. I only have 800 miles left on power train warranty and no money currently to spend on what I think is a warranty drivability issue.
Thanks for your input.
 
is this coed hot? i hope you didn't just misspell "code" 3 times

and if your car was just moving to a different parking spot for 3 months that is a KILLER on engine components, especially the spark plugs. if your car was only getting turned over for a few minutes at a time then you're never going into open loop and your engine is never getting into operating temperature. this means that the oil is getting washed out by gasoline (more fuel is used during startup to try to get the engine nice and hot) so your oil is bad. this is also flushing the oil away from the cylinder walls so your rings are getting fried

not to mention fowling of the spark plugs, which might be all the codes your throwing, which are probably missfire codes.

disconnecting the battery won't do much. check the spark plugs, or just replace them anyway while you have the intercooler off. 60k is a good mileage to change any car's spark plugs for that matter.

and if you don't want to do any of that, you could try to clean the plugs using the "unloaded race" method. basically, it's your car sitting still in neutral and you revving the engine to i think 4k for 1 minute, 3 or 4 times. that is supposed to clean the plugs
 
Thought it might have to do with the limited amount of run time , great insite, I was going to chang plugs at 60k anyway, so maybe get the moter up to OT each time I move with a short drive after I change the plugs, it's been 5 -20 degress outside so I haven't been inclined to change them already.
Thanks for the input and I welcome anymore thoughts, I will go get the coed check to see if it is a misfire tomorrow to confirm your thoughts.
 
How much fuel is in it? If it is sitting with low fuel you are getting some Ice in your tank. Try fueling and some dry gas.
 
Thank You
It actually had the fuel light on when I parked it last time, so I filled up, just checked the coed and it was P2177 so I am going to clean the MAF, tighten all the hose clamps and change the plugs, any other ideas, I had read in another thread that it could be a O2 sensor?? The stealerships said they wanted a minimum of $100 just to diagnose!!!!
 
Good day
Clean MAF sensor, filled with fresh gas and can of Heat, Cleaned sprk plugs, tighten all boost hoses's but one(bottom front, couldn't get to it) some where pretty loose, took it out for drive warmed it up good , some WOT put on 30 miles and still had hesitation in first and 2nd several times, someone said disconnect O2 sensor to see if it improved. How do you test MAF? Seems to run allright middle to top end, boosting well, doesn't hesitate all the time if you rev to 1500+ car starts fine, any ideas please,
 
Good day
Clean MAF sensor, filled with fresh gas and can of Heat, Cleaned sprk plugs, tighten all boost hoses's but one(bottom front, couldn't get to it) some where pretty loose, took it out for drive warmed it up good , some WOT put on 30 miles and still had hesitation in first and 2nd several times, someone said disconnect O2 sensor to see if it improved. How do you test MAF? Seems to run allright middle to top end, boosting well, doesn't hesitate all the time if you rev to 1500+ car starts fine, any ideas please,

MAFs can be tested with multimeters but im not sure what the specs are for this particular car. basically checking the resistance and voltage to make sure they're within spec, assuming that the elements are also clean and working
 

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