Blueprotegelx Turbo Build

I figured what was happening I needed a tune b/c i'm hitting 10 too soon. I adjusted the bov more to see if it'll help get rid of the turkey. I don't want to have any issues before tuning...
 
blueprotegelx said:
I figured what was happening I needed a tune b/c i'm hitting 10 too soon. I adjusted the bov more to see if it'll help get rid of the turkey. I don't want to have any issues before tuning...
Click to expand...

if it's right when you hit boost or step on the throttle it's not as much of a problem as if your sustaining 10ar throughout the revrange, better to spike rich than spike lean
 
blueprotegelx said:
This is exactly what's happening. So what i'm experiencing can be fixed by the afc correct?
Click to expand...

can you take a video to show exactly whats happening? cuz if its more than half a secoon it may need tuning. but if you spool to full boost fast it will spike rich for a split second
 
i've got to run out and get a 2X4 in the morning. I'll get a video in the morning. The last video I sent to JamesK when I was non-turbo I video'd from 3rd gear. Is this correct?
 
Last edited:
Oh how the boosted life is swell! lol

I went out to take a video and all of a sudden........................................................












My camera said "Warning: Exhausted battery," and shut off.



Thanks Sean for making my sig man! I love it. lol
 
Last edited:
still rocking the turkey. I've had a few friends examine the bov as well. May be this will help to find the symptom but my buddy Sean noticed that when you put your hand to the bov you can barely feel any air being (i think) pushed out from it. Where as when he showed me his, it was pushing out a steady amount of air during idle. Suggestions?
 
blueprotegelx said:
still rocking the turkey. I've had a few friends examine the bov as well. May be this will help to find the symptom but my buddy Sean noticed that when you put your hand to the bov you can barely feel any air being (i think) pushed out from it. Where as when he showed me his, it was pushing out a steady amount of air during idle. Suggestions?
Click to expand...


It's not typically supposed to. Mine doesn't. I run an open greddy type-s But i think it used to, or one one of my other valve's in the past. Maybe it was broken.

But at idle it shouldn't be leaking, or if it is not much at all is what you'd want. Correct me if I'm wrong.

But if the car still pulls hard whether it's leaking or not, nothing to worry about yet then.
 
He worded it wrong. When I revved the car in neutral you could feel a decent amount of air being blown off. It felt forceful. His, not so much. It didn't blow off much air and it wasn't very strong. No air is leaking at idle.
 
Sorry...It's been a long week! I just reread my post and it did not even make sense to me.

Like Sean said, when revved in neutral my hks let off very minimal air. Could it be a bad valve within?
 
i can only compare it to mine

i can rev mine to redline, have my hand in front of the BOV and feel no air whatsoever, the instant i stop i feel a huge gush of air rush out

videos would help
 
I'm still working on videos. The weather has been bad here lately with continuous heavy rain.

Once I fix the bov, I think I want to start on appearance. Thinking about 4k-6k HIDS and possibly painting wheels for time being. Not sure though on painting wheels.

I have been talking to a guy on the local forums, drivelex.com, and he mentioned this:

Some people I've heard of have a problem with getting it to stay closed entirely. Does HKS operate with a series of washers that you can remove/add to get the desired opening/sound or whatever?

A person on my z32 forum got this response from HKS in regards:


Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_Tech_Support
From HKS:
A leak in a SSQV or an I/C pipe will limit the amount of boost pressure
and should have nothing to do with the engine RPM level. If the valve
is
leaking, adjust the bolt on the back of the valve (1/8 of a turn at a
time) clockwise and check that the o-ring is seated properly and c-clip
is
has the flat side facing down. Do not take the SSQV apart; it will void
any type of warranty. If there is problem, send it in through the
dealer
it was purchased from.

Sincerely,
HKS USA Technical Support

I hope that might help. Have you also inspected the hose that runs to the manifold, and the connection to the IC piping to make sure they're both secure/not damaged?
Click to expand...


Have you checked your wastegate and connected hoses? It sounds like (unless your ECU is programmed with some kind of safety boost setting) you have a boost leak - much like I guess we've been discussing. Either that or a faulty wastegate.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure there are not boost leaks though. Everything seems pretty secure...But i'm curious if maybe the o-ring I put on for the HKS is not sitting properly. The ring I have is one from my bro's work, not an HKS. Should not really matter though as long as it's thick enough to provide a proper seal.
 
Last edited:
Please log in or register to reply here.

New Posts and Comments

C
potential 2025 cx-5 buyer
Replies
0
Views
3
camrytolik
C
N
How to completely disable cylinder deactivation?
3 4 5
Replies
91
Views
15K
ADS-B
ADS-B
S
Brake Fluid Flush
Replies
1
Views
67
ruthrj
ruthrj
AL Cx5
Grounding Cylinder Head Test Results (2024 CX-5 Turbo)
7 8 9
Replies
179
Views
17K
CrazyHippie
CrazyHippie
R
  • Question Question
2013 Cold start noise
Replies
1
Views
45
N7turbo
N7turbo
P
CX 5 2014 BOlts part number wisbone arm
Replies
0
Views
35
patrick95
P
View more…

New Threads and Articles

Back