Blueprotegelx Turbo Build

90 for both, I got a deal considering their 100+ for both of them usually.

I think i may be confused on what exactly the point of reversing the fans themselves, when you can reverse the wiring and the fans turn into pullers as well? or do the fans not work when you reverse the wiring with the stock wiring? Almost done, i'll get pics soon so you guys can analyze how i did them and let me know what you think...

the fan uses a simple DC motor, the polarity determines the direction the motor spins. in this case you want the black wire to be ground. so you connect the black wire of the fan to the solid black wire on the stock wiring, and the blue fan wire to the other stock wire, which is yellow for the rad fan and i believe black with blue stripe for the A/C fan.

the blades are designed to work in one direction to move air through the fan. so you need to have them face the way i showed you so the blade will pull air from the front. but in order for it to do this it needs to spin in the proper direction. hence the wiring reversal. hook it up like i explained above.

ALSO like i said before, get rid of those zipties and get the proper mounting ties. notice the huge gap between your fans and the radiator. and notice how mine sit against it. air, like water and electricity, follow the path of least resistance. instead of the fan pulling air through the radiator it will pull it from the gap between the fan and radiator. therefore you will have no cooling, or reduced cooling.

did you bleed your cooling system after you drained and filled it? top off the radiator and let the engine idle for 5-10 minutes with the radiator cap off, keep an eye on it so it stays topped off . in our cas the radiaor cap is the highest point in the coolin system. so by lettig it idle the air will travel to the highest point.

your rad cap could be faulty. or you could have way to much antifreeze. not many people know this but water is what acually cools your engine. antifreeze is just that, prevents the water from freezing and keeps the cooling system free of corrosion. stick with a good 50/50 premix. if your temps don't get anywhere near freezing you can run 70/30 (water/antifreeze) for improved cooling. it's not uncommon for people to drain their cooling system and fill with straight distilled water because it provides maximum cooling, then refill with 50/50 or 70/30 after the trackday.

your water pump could be ****** or the belt could be way too loose. or you have a clog somewhere in your cooling system, like a stuck thermostat.

when your engine is at operating temp, the upper rad hose should be pretty stiff. if you can easily pinch it or it feels empty you have a blockage somewhere. first thing to check is the thermostat. i've fixed two friends cars overheating like this.
 
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also i just noticed this, when i said before that hayden fans come setup as a pusher, thats if it's NIB from a retailer and not in some kit on ebay. either way it should have come with the original hayden instructions if the seller was competent and the instructions are very clear on how to configure them.
 
My two kits did not have instructions and they came from O'Reilley's. Which is reason why I've been asking so many questions. I actually already had ordered a thermostat yesterday and installed last night. Temp fluctuated between 160 & 190 but no higher. I flipped fan on 10" to match your pic, 12" was already in that direction, wired black to black and other colors
 
My two kits did not have instructions and they came from O'Reilley's. Which is reason why I've been asking so many questions. I actually already had ordered a thermostat yesterday and installed last night. Temp fluctuated between 160 & 190 but no higher. I flipped fan on 10" to match your pic, 12" was already in that direction, wired black to black and other colors

ok. hows it running.
 
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Edit: My bro is getting me the hardware that the fans come with, so the zip ties are only temporary. Changed my setup by putting maf on intake and adding extension for cai and added a smaller hose and fitting for bov hoping to produce HKS sound in which was unsuccessful. Still making the gobble.
 
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I took a video this morning in the car just of the w/b, boost gauge, and the gobble. But my g/f deleted it on accident. lol. It wasn't that good anyways b/c of it raining so i'll get one when it's nicer out.

Edit: After riding in Sean22306's MSP, I want to swap out my ported mani for a 626. Looked like the 626 made it a lot easier to work underneath the intake mani.

Funny thing is Sean and I were talking about the CF bezel thing yesterday, both of our cars came with them when we got the car. lol. I think when I met up with the original owner of my car he said he got it off ebay.
 
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ok. hows it running.

Last time I drove it was this morning and there was some hesitance, but I found that the hose with the brass fitting in it slipped off. As I mentioned water temp stayed between 160-190 and fans came on at their own time. I'm kind of curious if i was to find a water temp needle for my cluster if it would stay in normal range and not jump around due to being a mechanical gauge?
 
I don't think you can just replace the needle, you gotta get a hole cluster. I had one that came with the p5 but it sold long ago.
 
for some reason i thought someone told me a while back you could put in a needle, it's just hard to do b/c no one selling needles or parting out clusters?
 
man that is pretty gay. it IS possible to replace needles once you get your hands on one. you just have to be VERY careful and take your time
 

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