Blue Coolant Light

[flynbob]

2014 cx5 2.5.

Cant find anything in the manual about how to act when the coolant "cool" light is on. Is there a recommendation on max rpm until it's warm? Maybe just a Gee whiz kind of light? Any thoughts for this guy who just bought the cx5?

Thanks

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[Seabright]

Great question, since I have the same one. I have no real answer. It does indicate the engine is "cold" and goes off when the engine ( likely a sensor in the water jacket in the cylinder head) reaches a certain temperature. It is not operating temperature since the oil hasn't warmed up much. But I find the cabin heater works around the time the light goes off. Maybe the CPU managing the injection and engine management functions switches to a different mode. It is a warning that you should drive easy until it goes off.

I think it's related to the Zombie apocalypse. Mazda engineers could have programmed the engine to operate in reduced output mode when cold, limiting RPM and power. But, they may have realized that when you have to dash out of the house, start the car, and get the HELL out of there, you would need all the power you can summon to get away from the Zombies. Blue light be damned.

Just my guess.

The other no-information readout in my 16.5 CX-5 is the instantaneous mileage. If they had programmed it for like 1 to 5 minutes, it would have been a little better.

Anyway, that's my best explanation and I am looking forward to some better educated answers.

 

[Ram4Sam]

2014 cx5 2.5.

Cant find anything in the manual about how to act when the coolant "cool" light is on. Is there a recommendation on max rpm until it's warm? Maybe just a Gee whiz kind of light? Any thoughts for this guy who just bought the cx5?

Thanks



Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I would bet the blue light is Mazda's version of a coolant temperature gauge that other car's have........the blue light is the same as a gauge with the needle on the "C"....for cold. I imagine if you don't drive like a teenager when the light is blue, you'll be fine.

Sam

 

[doopie]

Smart Start Guide
Blue Coolant Temp Light
On: Engine coolant is cold and no warm air is available for heater/defroster.
Off: Engine coolant is warm and warm air is available for heater/defroster. The light may stay on for a few minutes after start-up when the engine is cold, but the vehicle can be driven with the light on or off.

 

[kelvrick]

Semi related, but on my Subaru with SI drive, the car won't let you go into Sport Sharp Mode (most aggressive of 3 settings) while the blue light is on (cold engine). Granted, all it does from the factory is modulate throttle response and doesn't do anything like limit power or rpms. With my low amounts of knowledge of oils, cars, and tuning, I came to the conclusion in my driving that a cooler engine means your oil is closer to its 0w viscosity than its 20 viscosity (assuming mazda recommended 0w-20, so it is currently thinner and will not provide as much "protection" for your engine. So, I take it easy and don't go too high on the rpms or heavy throttle until the engine is warmed up.

 

[flynbob]

Well there it is! No heat. Not as sexy as I had hoped but now I know.

Personally I was really digging the zombie apocalypse theory though! Haha

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[Unobtanium]

2014 cx5 2.5.

Cant find anything in the manual about how to act when the coolant "cool" light is on. Is there a recommendation on max rpm until it's warm? Maybe just a Gee whiz kind of light? Any thoughts for this guy who just bought the cx5?

Thanks

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

The only adaptive I have seen is on the BMW E46 M3, and I think 3500-4K was the lowest it went when it was cold, IIRC from my friend's car.

I typically try to keep it under 3K rpm and 60% throttle. Just 'cuz.

 

[craigo]

2014 cx5 2.5.

Cant find anything in the manual about how to act when the coolant "cool" light is on. Is there a recommendation on max rpm until it's warm? Maybe just a Gee whiz kind of light? Any thoughts for this guy who just bought the cx5?

Thanks

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

"Gentle driving" is recommended. I doubt mechanically it matters (much) but you get worse gas mpgs.

 

[ctbale]

many newer Fords have a temp guage with a needle. its drivin by a 4 position switch, There is only 4 places you will see the needle unless its in its slow transition from one position to another. 1. Cold 2. just above Cold. 3. Normal. 4. Hot/over temp (should also get a light.) just the way the automaker is giving you the gauge you want, but its not really telling you much. For example when in the FIXED normal(middle) position the engine can be between 125F and 230F. Mazda gives us a blue light when below "normal" and a red light when above. Just like airplanes I work on, the pilot gets only enough information he needs to complete his flight safely. black panel is a good thing. vast majority of the faults wont even throw a fault light until after landing on the newer stuff, as long as its not related to safety of flight. dumbing it down!!

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ For example when in the FIXED normal(middle) position the engine can be between 125F and 230F.

This is exactly what happened on my 2001.5 VW Passat! The needle stays at dead center of the temperature gauge ALL THE TIME when engine is warm. The temp gauge is not much better than an idiot light other than it gives you a better visual effect!

 

[Unobtanium]

many newer Fords have a temp guage with a needle. its drivin by a 4 position switch, There is only 4 places you will see the needle unless its in its slow transition from one position to another. 1. Cold 2. just above Cold. 3. Normal. 4. Hot/over temp (should also get a light.) just the way the automaker is giving you the gauge you want, but its not really telling you much. For example when in the FIXED normal(middle) position the engine can be between 125F and 230F. Mazda gives us a blue light when below "normal" and a red light when above. Just like airplanes I work on, the pilot gets only enough information he needs to complete his flight safely. black panel is a good thing. vast majority of the faults wont even throw a fault light until after landing on the newer stuff, as long as its not related to safety of flight. dumbing it down!!

We had those back in the 90's on Fords. What do you mean "newer"? That's 3 decades ago nearly! Part of why I like GM, too. They have REAL oil pressure gauges and REAL temp gauges for both coolant AND oil in their sports cars. Ford? HAHAHA!

 

[fdew]

many newer Fords have a temp guage with a needle. its drivin by a 4 position switch, There is only 4 places you will see the needle unless its in its slow transition from one position to another. 1. Cold 2. just above Cold. 3. Normal. 4. Hot/over temp (should also get a light.) just the way the automaker is giving you the gauge you want, but its not really telling you much. For example when in the FIXED normal(middle) position the engine can be between 125F and 230F. Mazda gives us a blue light when below "normal" and a red light when above. Just like airplanes I work on, the pilot gets only enough information he needs to complete his flight safely. black panel is a good thing. vast majority of the faults wont even throw a fault light until after landing on the newer stuff, as long as its not related to safety of flight. dumbing it down!!

I pull a trailer often in summer. If I know the engine is getting warmer ahead of a red light I can alter my driving or even my route to keep it under control. That is why I bought a Scangauge I find in winter I will often check it to see if the car is up to operating temperature. Some days I will add a couple back roads to my route home just so I can get the car up to temp that day (And have a little more fun.)

 

[Conrad 16.5]

I pull a trailer often in summer. If I know the engine is getting warmer ahead of a red light I can alter my driving or even my route to keep it under control. That is why I bought a Scangauge I find in winter I will often check it to see if the car is up to operating temperature. Some days I will add a couple back roads to my route home just so I can get the car up to temp that day (And have a little more fun.)

Which Scangauge are you using with your CX-5? I'd love to have a real temp gauge for both the engine and the transmission.

 

[ctbale]

this device plugs into your OBD-II connector below your steering wheel, then connects to your android device via blue tooth, and you can see the data on an app. the maker of this device recommends "Torque" $5 And you can clear codes. Not too bad. I have a $100 scan tool and you can see real-time coolant temp, rpm, timing, IAT, TPS, fuel scheduling etc, etc. be from to see this info on my phone.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[Phames11]

The blue light indicates the coolant temp is not to normal operating temperature as you may have read already. As far as how you should drive you should try not to accelerate hard until the engine fully warms up. Which means keep the rpms under 4000 and avoid unnecessary changes in rpms. But if there is a need to react always error on the side of safety. If you must accelerate to be safe then do so, but don't if you can wait for a few more cars before pulling into traffic. You will not cause engine damage by accelerating once in awhile from a cold start but you shouldn't make a habit of it either.

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[ctbale]

It was 26 below here in northern mn last night, I am definitely not accelerating hard till the light goes out. need a cold light on my tranny/diff/xfer case too!! Haha

 

[Pipemajor]

I don't like the temp idiot light - could easily be confused with the high beam indicator light.

My former $5,800 1978 Honda Accord had a temp gauge. When warmed up, the needle would climb higher when idling at a stop light. Once you got moving and had airflow through the radiator, it would drop back to normal. The Honda was my first car with electric engine fan. It would only come on when needed. When stopped with the engine running, the gauge would climb/drop when the fan cycled off/on.

 

[ColtX-5]

2014 cx5 2.5.

Cant find anything in the manual about how to act when the coolant "cool" light is on. Is there a recommendation on max rpm until it's warm? Maybe just a Gee whiz kind of light? Any thoughts for this guy who just bought the cx5?

Thanks

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

My coolant light turns off at 132F. It takes 6 more miles to get to 185F, full coolant temp. Even then the oil is not yet to 180F (normal), based on past experience with other engines.

I keep mine below 2500 RPM with minimum throttle until the light goes off and below 3000 RPM until I've driven about 10 miles. The idea is to minimize bearing stress until the oil is at normal temp in the engine AND drive train.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

I don't like the temp idiot light - could easily be confused with the high beam indicator light.

My former $5,800 1978 Honda Accord had a temp gauge. When warmed up, the needle would climb higher when idling at a stop light. Once you got moving and had airflow through the radiator, it would drop back to normal. The Honda was my first car with electric engine fan. It would only come on when needed. When stopped with the engine running, the gauge would climb/drop when the fan cycled off/on.

Right! They made it the same color as the high beam indicator. Duh.