Mazdaspeed2oo35
600whp - 600wtq at 30 PSI
Well First time I see a 2871R with that housing and inlet, I'll still say the one from that picture i mean the Right side Turbo is a 3071 or 76R turbo.
Blown Engine Rebuild
- Thread starter Jchouin1
- Start date
Well First time I see a 2871R with that housing and inlet, I'll still say the one from that picture i mean the Right side Turbo is a 3071 or 76R turbo.
yeah it's 4"! the coupler for it is in the pic with the dp. it reduces to fit the pg inlet.
7
79535
You better have some vids up when you get her running 
Looks like it will be a beastly setup.
Looks like it will be a beastly setup.
after alil bit of ebay research i found this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GARR...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
i guess i stand corrected, or people are getting the wrong turbos.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GARR...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
i guess i stand corrected, or people are getting the wrong turbos.
Saskatchewan17
Member
- :
- 2008 TR Mazdaspeed 3
I'm pretty sure, after hearing reccounts from Ken and your posts, that it was a combo of your tune and modifications that made you blow. A combination of a catless exhaust, stock K04, and 19 PSI tune is never a good thing. That's pretty much asking for a blown motor. You are asking the teeny K04 to do so much and in turn, getting those crazy boost spikes, which blew your motor.
The good thing is, now, you don't have to worry about any of that, just fuel I guess.
I was thinking traction and tires.
My other thought was it seems rather pointless to have a turbo with such an enormous inlet only to restrict it with a TIP and MAF housing roughly half the size and I would also suspect there would be some problems somehow with this arrangement due to turbulent flow. Better to go from larger to smaller than the other way around but ultimately the turbo may not care too much. I guess he will find out.
An example of this problem - RPMC explained to me their inlets were designed out of tubing to match the factory inlet of the K04 and they discovered in testing that a 2.5" and 3" inlet created a lot of turbulence which actually cost power due to the mismatch in diameters at the turbo.
Of course plenty of people run the CPE TIP without too much problems so I dunno. Could have been salesmanship but it does make sense to me.
I actually had a stock downpipe. The funny thing is, if that's what you were told, I bought the parts from him and had it tuned at the place he recommended. I guess everyone is looking for an iron clad rule on "what not to do" in terms of blowing engines, there isn't one. The safest bet is to never mod a car, keep all of your oil change records, and sell the car before the warranty is up. Other than that, we are all taking a risk bolting anything to the car. It appears some find their weakest link before others depending on how far they push it. Mine happened to be a rod. It would be easy for me to blame the parts, or blame P&L, but that wouldn't repair my car or turn back time. I think that this is a lesson, at least for me, that if I am going to increase the output of something substantially, I need to make sure that the parts holding it all together are suited for the job.
One of the benefits of going with lower compression is that less fuel will be required, so my PTP pump should deliver just fine. It's going on a month now. I'm tired of driving a rental car!
7
79535
Lol. Finally, someone who feels the same way I do! Wisdom rears it's ugly head in this quote.
Saskatchewan17
Member
- :
- 2008 TR Mazdaspeed 3
I mean... there is no iron clad way of preventing blown motors. But the fact remains that you were trying to push out 3-5 more PSI out of the little K04 than it could do. Pushing the stock turbo like that in combination with the exhaust and supporting mods (yes I know it's not catless, but boost creep can be seen even with one cat removed) is pretty much asking for a blown motor. Plus I don't know what your tune looked like. A good tune for a stock block MS3 will push the torque curve up in the rev range so you aren't putting so much stress on the motor. That's why the Race Roots car has yet to blow... phenomenal and well thought out tuning. But that's just what I make of the whole situation... And what I meant by "all you have to worry about is fuel," is that the motor is basically indestructable now and you can throw boost at it all day without the rods flinching. You just need fuel to meet those demands.
Anyways, it doesn't matter now, you have a built motor and a GT28. The past is the past. Great build, I like the route you're going with.
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axisboldaslove
Member
- :
- 07 MS3 GT Heavily Modified
<rant>EVERYBODY NEEDS TO GET THE FACTS STRAIGHT! RACE ROOTS TRADED IN THEIR SHOP MS3 FOR A EVO X! THE MOTOR WAS GOING TO BLOW SO THEY TOOK THE KIT OFF AND SENT IT TO MADVILLAN! PLEASE UNDERSTAND THIS AND THEY STILL HAVE NOT CAME OUT WITH THE MS3 KIT YET AND NO REFUNDS HAVE BEEN GIVING TO THE CUSTOMERS WHO ARE STILL WAITING FOR THEM. CHECK THE OTHER FORUM AND YOU CAN BE UP TO DATE OF RACE ROOTS THEY GOT BANNED FROM THAT FORUM. </rant>
axisboldaslove
Member
- :
- 07 MS3 GT Heavily Modified
Almost go-time!
where did you get your torque plate for when you got your block bored out? ken?
So she is running now, but I am swapping out the purge solenoid to hopefully clean up my lean idle. I loaded a stock map back on and changed to stock plugs. Idle starts off with good a/f, but climbs to 18/1 and throws a 2871. Ken's buddy swears this is the problem, so I will have to send a case of beer his way if it works! Oh, and the exhaust sounds mean as hell!
P.S. for anyone attempting this, setting timing is a b****. If you don't have the plate to set the cam position (which I didn't), take great photos of your cam position and mark everything well before taking it apart. You can't just mark the gears either because they have no keyways. As I discovered, being just a c-hair off turns the engine into a rodeo. The good part is that you can set the cam position and gear position without taking the timing chain cover off. More to come after the new purge solenoid goes in.
P.S. for anyone attempting this, setting timing is a b****. If you don't have the plate to set the cam position (which I didn't), take great photos of your cam position and mark everything well before taking it apart. You can't just mark the gears either because they have no keyways. As I discovered, being just a c-hair off turns the engine into a rodeo. The good part is that you can set the cam position and gear position without taking the timing chain cover off. More to come after the new purge solenoid goes in.
How would they know it was going to blow? I'd be more inclined to believe they got cold feet and decided to quit while they were ahead. Knowing an engine is going to blow while it's still running fine would be a neat trick.
