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- MSP 1145
haha.
Big Brakes for CHEAP!
- Thread starter indymx6
- Start date
ScratchNSniff
Undisputed Parts God
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- Way to Many
Yea, I grabbed my ruler and was looking at it thinking there is NO WAY...
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- MSP 1145
i meant rotors!
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
ha ha and to think I almost fell for that one.
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- MSP 1145
mazda 6 are big, but i want bigger, i think i'll spend the extra money on the speed 6 stuff
Something to think about for you all considering the MS6 brakes;
The MSP weighs about 2900lbs - the MS6 weighs about 3500lbs. You'll be putting on brakes that are designed to stop a car that's 600lbs heavier. Also, the added weight of the system will have a noticeable affect on the steering, the suspension travel and the power.
The MSP weighs about 2900lbs - the MS6 weighs about 3500lbs. You'll be putting on brakes that are designed to stop a car that's 600lbs heavier. Also, the added weight of the system will have a noticeable affect on the steering, the suspension travel and the power.
Ty07allstar
2015 Mazda 6 Touring
Just to make sure, the 07 Mazda 6 brakes will fit with the stock 2003 Protege ES rims?
Shi-Fu JaY
Member
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- Audi A4 Quatrro
If the ES rims have the same specs as the 03 p5 rims you"ll be ok.
I had my stock P5 rims on while I was polishing my Volks.
mazda speeder
Member
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- Skyline 350 GT
not sure if its been covered but the pic from the first page 'after' the pad is only in contact with outside edge of the disc, same contact area as before pic. so pointless with lose calipers
Not true, the braking radius is larger (what's important is the centerline of the pad to the center of the rotor. torque = force x distance) so it will have a greater braking torque. Also, the larger rotor provides a bigger heat sink so the maximum operating temperature of the pad will not be reached as quickly which will allow for more usage before fade. The pads will most likely wear faster than a larger pad with the same position, but will wear less than the original pad doing the same work on the smaller rotor because it will be maintained at a lower temperature.
markmdz89hatch
Member
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- '02 ES
I just did this yesterday on my '02 ES. My brakes were SHOT, so it was time to spend some money on brakes either with stock replacements, or look into big brake upgrades.
I was about to pull the trigger on the Revolution Brakes upgrade kit with the Wilwood Ultra-Lite's, but a local member tipped me off to looking into the 6 swap. I read through every damn page of this thread this past Tuesday, made a few phone calls, and collected all the parts Thursday and Friday. Yesterday everything went on.
Talk about a damn bolt-on setup. I got a set of calipers from an '06 Mazda6 with about 50-60k on 'em for a whopping $20 each from a local junkyard. All the seals and slides looked and worked great. There were pads still in the calipers and all pads had very nice even wear so I was good with using them as is.
A pair of decent rotors from AutoZone for $63 each and a set of Duralast Gold pads for $40 and I was off to turn some wrenches.
Calipers: $40 (2@ $20/ea.)*
Rotors: $126 (2@ $63/ea.)*
Pads: $40
*(+tax) I got a 10% discount for the AZ parts for reasons I'm still trying to figure out, so $158 after tax, etc.)
Grand total: $198
I know I should have torn down the calipers and cleaned/painted them, picked up a set of Brembo rotors, and my favorite Axxis Metal Master pads (if they're even available for the 6), and done it real right, but in a hurry and a pinch for time this worked out just fine.
I'm almost done wearing off the pad and rotor glazing (yeah I didn't have any brake-kleen [oops] and didn't want to let that delay the process), but I can already tell there's far less pedal effort and a very much improved stop. This is a wicked easy and cheap upgrade that's worth every damn penny.
The rotors definitely weight a bit more than the stockers, which does add to the unsprung corner weight. It's only very minimally noticeable. Until I burn off all the glazing, I'm not going to push the car hard, but I intend to so I can see if it affects the understeer I've tried to hard to get rid of.
I might come out of my auto-x retirement of 8 years and really see what I can do with these brakes.
Oh the best part of all... ...they fit (barely) under the stock 16's without any modification at all.
Only negative...
I would not suggest using stock Protege lines with these as they will no longer be able to clip into the tab on the struts. I'd look into if you can use the MZ6 stock lines, or just bite the bullet and go with SS lines as long as the strut clip slides freely on the line instead of being in a fixed position. Just to hold me over until I figure out a more permanent fix, I just used some safety wire and tied the line to the body of the strut but i would not recommend it as a long-term fix.
No pics during the process (phone was MIA while I was doing the swap), but I'm going to be buying another pair of calipers and going ballz-out on the rotors and pads, and SS lines, and will do the right thing with tearing down, rebuilding, and painting the new calipers and rotor top-hats too.
I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone even needing new rotors and pads. Spend the extra couple bucks and do this. These brakes should last a lot longer than the stockers and should not turn to mud on high-speed stops like the stockers do
I was about to pull the trigger on the Revolution Brakes upgrade kit with the Wilwood Ultra-Lite's, but a local member tipped me off to looking into the 6 swap. I read through every damn page of this thread this past Tuesday, made a few phone calls, and collected all the parts Thursday and Friday. Yesterday everything went on.
Talk about a damn bolt-on setup. I got a set of calipers from an '06 Mazda6 with about 50-60k on 'em for a whopping $20 each from a local junkyard. All the seals and slides looked and worked great. There were pads still in the calipers and all pads had very nice even wear so I was good with using them as is.
A pair of decent rotors from AutoZone for $63 each and a set of Duralast Gold pads for $40 and I was off to turn some wrenches.
Calipers: $40 (2@ $20/ea.)*
Rotors: $126 (2@ $63/ea.)*
Pads: $40
*(+tax) I got a 10% discount for the AZ parts for reasons I'm still trying to figure out, so $158 after tax, etc.)
Grand total: $198
I know I should have torn down the calipers and cleaned/painted them, picked up a set of Brembo rotors, and my favorite Axxis Metal Master pads (if they're even available for the 6), and done it real right, but in a hurry and a pinch for time this worked out just fine.
I'm almost done wearing off the pad and rotor glazing (yeah I didn't have any brake-kleen [oops] and didn't want to let that delay the process), but I can already tell there's far less pedal effort and a very much improved stop. This is a wicked easy and cheap upgrade that's worth every damn penny.
The rotors definitely weight a bit more than the stockers, which does add to the unsprung corner weight. It's only very minimally noticeable. Until I burn off all the glazing, I'm not going to push the car hard, but I intend to so I can see if it affects the understeer I've tried to hard to get rid of.
I might come out of my auto-x retirement of 8 years and really see what I can do with these brakes.
Oh the best part of all... ...they fit (barely) under the stock 16's without any modification at all.
Only negative...
I would not suggest using stock Protege lines with these as they will no longer be able to clip into the tab on the struts. I'd look into if you can use the MZ6 stock lines, or just bite the bullet and go with SS lines as long as the strut clip slides freely on the line instead of being in a fixed position. Just to hold me over until I figure out a more permanent fix, I just used some safety wire and tied the line to the body of the strut but i would not recommend it as a long-term fix.
No pics during the process (phone was MIA while I was doing the swap), but I'm going to be buying another pair of calipers and going ballz-out on the rotors and pads, and SS lines, and will do the right thing with tearing down, rebuilding, and painting the new calipers and rotor top-hats too.
I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone even needing new rotors and pads. Spend the extra couple bucks and do this. These brakes should last a lot longer than the stockers and should not turn to mud on high-speed stops like the stockers do
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