Bean's Racing Beat (27mm) vs Progress (21mm) vs No Sway Bar

[bbrich57]

Why are you removing your RB bar?

The Bean man is ALWAYS tryin' out different stuff. He's in a state of constant change. This can be a good thing for the rest of us that don't have to time or money to try out everything. And he's done some very nice write-ups too. I just wonder how long it'll be before the BOOST comes on?? I think it's safe to say that we all keep an eye on what the Bean man will do next. (rlaugh)

Hey Bean, What are you gonna replace the RB bar with?

 

[thebeansoldier]

The Bean man is ALWAYS tryin' out different stuff. He's in a state of constant change. This can be a good thing for the rest of us that don't have to time or money to try out everything. And he's done some very nice write-ups too. I just wonder how long it'll be before the BOOST comes on?? I think it's safe to say that we all keep an eye on what the Bean man will do next. (rlaugh)

Hey Bean, What are you gonna replace the RB bar with?

STOCK

I won't be my 3's primary driver for awhile so i'm slowly putting some parts to stock (pending sale on the GT-Spec front bar and rear tie bar, and my modified AWR mount). I've been seriously thinking about boosting it with HiBoost or by another company [I can't mention which one yet].

I really wanted to see how well it'd oversteer in the rain now that my Potenzas are finally broken in. They're still grippy as hell and won't let me oversteer as easily as the ASX.

 

[bbrich57]

WHOA, Bean!! STOCK? YOU?

 

[MightyMouse]

thereby reduces weight transfer and load on the outside tire... to this effect, understeer is not increased because grip is enhanced through stability

Just so you know, a sway bar has ZERO effect on weight transfer. The only things that effect weight transfer are center of gravity height, angular acceleration (how fast you are cornering) and your roll moment height. Springs and sway bars only affect how the body reacts, and thus the change in camber from rolling the suspension pickup points.

 

[bbrich57]

Hey guys!! For those interested in the Progress bar, there's a good deal on eBay right now. A brand new/unused series 2 bar for $100 shipped.
Check it out!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda3-Mazda-3-Progress-22mm-Rear-Sway-Bar-RSB-62-1125_W0QQitemZ260040681113QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33592QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260040681113

 

[keleko]

how do these compare against the 'speed3 bars?
performance?
price?

 

[bbrich57]

I think someone said that they are 22F/24R, but I can't verify that. They are also only available as a set and cost $420.
Check it out for yourself: http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/speedDisplayAccessoryDetail.action?endModelYear=2006&speedAccessoryId=19&carLineCode=MZ3&startModelYear=2004&categoryId=4

 

[Lord_Nycon]

Just installed racing beat front/rear sway bars and endlinks.. Car feels great

 

[tsunami]

did you do it yourself?? any tips or things to do/not do as i have heard the front sway bar (and from what i could see when i put my springs on) is a b**** to remove...

 

[bbrich57]

did you do it yourself?? any tips or things to do/not do as i have heard the front sway bar (and from what i could see when i put my springs on) is a b**** to remove...

+1
From what I've read, the front bar is akin to doing open heart surgery.
You could do a nice little write up on this that I'm sure would be appreciated?

 

[Lord_Nycon]

it is a bit of a b****. The only suggestion i can give is make sure everything is lined up after the install before anything is tight. That way your not stripping a bolt trying to get it to line up right. Took me about 6 -7 hrs. to do the front and about 15 min to do the rear. Its easiest to get to the bushing bolt if you use a long extension and come in from the top of the engine bay. If you do the endlinks you will have to drill out the two mounting holes. (1 on the racing beat sway bar). Over all not to bad if you take your time.

The car feels very good, very planted when your taking turns. I would denfinatly recomend these bars, a million times better than the single progress bar, imo.

 

[Lord_Nycon]

let me get some pics and i'll go a little more in depth for the front bar. Should have them up tonight.

 

[TheMAN]

Just so you know, a sway bar has ZERO effect on weight transfer. The only things that effect weight transfer are center of gravity height, angular acceleration (how fast you are cornering) and your roll moment height. Springs and sway bars only affect how the body reacts, and thus the change in camber from rolling the suspension pickup points.

uhh ok
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=285747

 

[Lord_Nycon]

This will be my first write up so...
This is for installing front sway bar and endlinks from racing beat.
This is how i did it.

First remove the tires on both sides Then remove the front endlinks. Use 5mm allen wrench if you have to keep the studs from moving. Then remove the bushing bolts by use of a 30" extension and a universal joint socket. Come in from the top of the engine bay for the easiest access to the bolts.

I would recomend using a jack to hold the "tray" into place while you loosen the bolts. Remove the upper control arm bolt. (see picture)

After that remove the bracket holding the "tray" into place. Using a 14mm and 21mm socket. Use an impact gun if need be.(see picture)

At this point both tray and sway bar should be loose as well as the front endlinks removed. There are prybar points in the chasis and tray so you can move the tray. Work the tray untill the sway bar can be removed. (that part is the b****)

Do not forget to drill the front endlink mounting points with the supplied bit and guide. (i didn't use the guide they gave me, thats up to you)(see picture)

Racing beat gives you torque down specs for all bolts/nuts that you use.

Get the new sway bar in position before you put the bushings on, this will make your life alot easier. After it is in position then put the bushings on. When installing the front sway bar after you have it roughly in position it helps to have someone help guide the wrench onto the bushing bolts. Again come in from the top of the engine bay. After the sway bar is in position and the bolts are in but loose jack up the tray (work into position) and hand tighten the bolts starting with the bracket. After all tray bolts are hand tightened install front endlinks. When installing the new endlings use an open ended wrench on the inside to hold the stud if you need to. Tighten to spec all bolts being carefull not warp the tray. Make sure you jack up the tray slowly so most of the weight is on the jack untill your ready to torque everything down.

Thats about it, oh and you do not need to go crazy when your working the tray in and out of position. Be patient and the sway bar should be fairly easy to get out/in.

Total install was about 6-7 hrs. (i was working a little slow)


The directions that racing beat give are good and if you follow them you'll install will be easier. (i know none of use like to follow directions)

P.S. Sorry if any of my terminology is wrong.

Thats my first write up and i hope it helps you out.

 

[bbrich57]

Thanks Lord Nycon!! A very nice write up... first or not.
I now know that I would be able to do this, even if I'd be crazy to do this. (rlaugh)

 

[bbrich57]

BTW: You weren't working "slow," you would've been working slowly. But I prefer that you were working c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y, as anyone in their right mind would have... especially on their own car. :lol:

 

[Lord_Nycon]

Also its alot easier if you remove the plastic shrouding first.

 

[bbrich57]

(rlaugh)

 

[thebeansoldier]

Nycon, great write up. I'll be needing that soon... ooh, slotted rotors

Could you please make a new thread either here or the how-to section? I'd do it, but then you wouldn't be able to edit it.

 

[bbrich57]

... ooh, slotted rotors

Yeah! I noticed that too.... (2thumbs) (flash)
And may I also say, some pressure washing is in order under there.