AWR Mount for DD?

The three bolts that held the bracket onto the transmission didn't take much force to break loose, I'd say about 35lb ft. That's what I re-torqued mine too and I have no issues. The red bushing is mounted on the transmission side and the black bushing is on the subframe side.
 
The three bolts that held the bracket onto the transmission didn't take much force to break loose, I'd say about 35lb ft. That's what I re-torqued mine too and I have no issues. The red bushing is mounted on the transmission side and the black bushing is on the subframe side.

Thanks bud ;)

I found this build thread with some info and pictures. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123830271-Cam-s-Mazda2-Build-Thread
I still can't believe that this mount came with no info on torque specs, even on the site there's nothing. This is kind of odd.
 
All of the AWR parts are like that, great hardware but no installation instructions.

-Derrick
 
I still can't believe that this mount came with no info on torque specs, even on the site there's nothing. This is kind of odd.

It might be because its only 2 bolts to remove and re-install, add the fact its a directional part than matches the OEM design you should be able to visually inspect the stock part and get a pretty good idea of what you need to do. You should also get a good sense of how much torque is required when you remove the oem mount. I agree with the above post that 35 ft lbs is probably a safe bet, but honestly you are over thinking this. Just snug the bolts, go for a test drive and double check your work. Its not rocket science to put one of these in, just use your brain and don't over do it.
 
It might be because its only 2 bolts to remove and re-install, add the fact its a directional part than matches the OEM design you should be able to visually inspect the stock part and get a pretty good idea of what you need to do. You should also get a good sense of how much torque is required when you remove the oem mount. I agree with the above post that 35 ft lbs is probably a safe bet, but honestly you are over thinking this. Just snug the bolts, go for a test drive and double check your work. Its not rocket science to put one of these in, just use your brain and don't over do it.

I know it's an easy part to install, I did it on my old Focus ZX3 and my Mazdaspeed3. Look at Corksport, every part the sell the add info, decals, and other stuff with each parts. Some peeps never worked on cars before and even working on a 2 bolt install may be hard for them. I think adding a small sheet with some info and torque specs wouldn't be a hard thing to do.

On that point I did the install in 4min, torqued it to 35ft lbs and did a test drive. I love the ride and the vibes are pretty good. I may buy next summer the 95duro for track days and an extra one for my wife's Mazda2
 
I know what you mean, sometimes we are spoiled by companies like CS that go above and beyond when developing and selling parts. With that said if someone is intimidated by installing a part like this they honestly should not be working on their own car for the sake of their own safety and of those around them.
 
I know what you mean, sometimes we are spoiled by companies like CS that go above and beyond when developing and selling parts. With that said if someone is intimidated by installing a part like this they honestly should not be working on their own car for the sake of their own safety and of those around them.

True, but from what I've seen from CS every tuners should take note and copy what they do for their customers. Personally I would have rather got a RMM from CS if it was available.
Maybe there's one in the works, I still need a 2nd or third one for our Mazda2's.
 
in a perfect world! Most of higher end brands that develop and manufacture parts out of the US, europe and japan all seem to do a great job when it comes to providing all the required tools, diagrams, instructions, certifications etc... Its the cheaper "Me too" manufacturers that buy a part, send it to china for reproduction and slang heavily discounted knock-offs that are leaving a sour taste in most peoples mouths but in all honesty they deserve what they are paying for. AWR is a bit of an exception to the rule since they build a quality part however the fact that they are geared more towards the competition crowd I think they tend to fall a bit on the side of "they know what they are doing"
 
in a perfect world! Most of higher end brands that develop and manufacture parts out of the US, europe and japan all seem to do a great job when it comes to providing all the required tools, diagrams, instructions, certifications etc... Its the cheaper "Me too" manufacturers that buy a part, send it to china for reproduction and slang heavily discounted knock-offs that are leaving a sour taste in most peoples mouths but in all honesty they deserve what they are paying for. AWR is a bit of an exception to the rule since they build a quality part however the fact that they are geared more towards the competition crowd I think they tend to fall a bit on the side of "they know what they are doing"

True, this mount is very well made. I couldn't find anything wrong with it, not even a small scratch. It's even in black instead of the usual silver it normally comes in.
 
This mount is awesome!. The motor pretty much stays still no more slapping around. I highly recommend this mod. The vibrations are nothing to worry about
 
I cannot seem to get the transmission side in for the life of me. I've hit it with a rubber mallet, plenty of WD40, another pair of hands. Nothing. It seems like the metal tubing within the mount is 1 mm too big. What am I doing wrong?
 
Only suggestion I have is to make sure the engine is square. I replaced mine on a slight hill and the mount did not want to line up. Took everything I had to push on the engine with one hand and manipulate the mount with the other. Bolting it was the worst for me. Next time I will ensure level ground lol
 
I cannot seem to get the transmission side in for the life of me. I've hit it with a rubber mallet, plenty of WD40, another pair of hands. Nothing. It seems like the metal tubing within the mount is 1 mm too big. What am I doing wrong?


remove stock motor mount, and then put the transmission side of the new one in first, get the bolt through. Thread the bolt a bit, but just enough to hold it, you may need to adjust the angle of the mount a little. Then with the transmission side in, life the engine with your hand(not as terrible as it sounds), this will push the mount into the subframe side, and then after a bit of trying it will eventually line up, get the bolt through and thread it. After both sides are threaded then just torque down to factory recommended good and tight.
 
Got it in! My driveway is a bit slanted and I tend to forget this piece of information from time to time. Went for a quick test drive and I love the feel of the new mount from launch. No longer do I feel like I'm about to stall at every stoplight.
 
Glad you got it in. When pulling out of my driveway. I have a tendency to release the clutch to early (before I touch the throttle). And the mount let's me know before it stalls. It's a gear mod especially when combined with the cs short shift plate.
 
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