AWD activation

I have to dig out my OB2 reader and see what it says the percentage is at in Drive at a stand still, also curious as to what it is when the wipers are on in the same situation.
 
I have to dig out my OB2 reader and see what it says the percentage is at in Drive at a stand still, also curious as to what it is when the wipers are on in the same situation.

Post it up, I'd be curious, as obviously my test doesn't have near that specificity.
 
It's like, so much voodoo on this forum. Everyone is now stumbling all over themselves t o explain how I did the wrong magic to "lock the diff".
Looks to me like we're just having a discussion. Kind of what we do here. As usual, you need to make more out of it. [emoji16]
 
probably not a good idea but just throwing out there....

Future 3rd party module that can be turned on and off that plugs in inline to alter rear power on driver demand....like Pedal Commander for the rear diff
 
Looks to me like we're just having a discussion. Kind of what we do here. As usual, you need to make more out of it. [emoji16]

Well when one says the other is "still taking out his azz" then its hardly a "discussion"

I still enjoyed reading it though, very informative since I'm looking to upgrade to AWD.
 
I remember seeing this video a while back where they compared the AWD capability of the CRV, Forester and CX-5 in snow.

In it he mentioned that the CX-5 was reactive and then at 6 mins they do the uphill stop/start and he says the rear is always on, no mention of % though.

 
Anecdotal experience not directly addressing the main question... But we have had some serious snow here this last week and my CX-5 has been great in the snow even on these all season Toyos.
Getting up and down snowy and icy hills has been absolutely uneventful. A number of cars stuck in this area (we're not used to or prepared for this much snow), but the Mazda has had zero troubles. And off the line in the rain, the system works exactly how I would expect if I give it some beans -- sometimes a moment of front wheel spin, then off you go. It basically does exactly as well as I would expect it to do in the rain and snow, especially on 19" all seasons.

I don't doubt that some other (comparable) manufacturer's AWD implementation could be superior in a certain way or better at a particular off-road test. From the vids I've seen so far, any differences are negligible or an advantage only in some situation I will never encounter.
 
By the way, on a little side note but loosely related, here is the TSB that shows how the diff can get broken by driving against the handbrake. It mainly relates to vehicle delivered on a lobsterback transporter where the oil may run back away from one of the bushes.
 

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  • Rear Differential Case broken due to improper handling of new vehicles.pdf
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I wouldn't know. I torquebraked it. I didn't touch the handbrake.

Using the brakes deactivates AWD, so that antilock can work its magic. That's why you got the front spinning before the rear.

Now, the question is, did unob know this before I pointed it out?
 
Well when one says the other is "still taking out his azz" then its hardly a "discussion"

I still enjoyed reading it though, very informative since I'm looking to upgrade to AWD.

When this site has a member that is *almost every post* posting clear nonsense, then my crude statement is valid. I don't understand why the other members put up with his shot. I don't see that mindset on any other of the *dozens* of forums I read.

I put him on my ignore list, but then I browse in incognito mode, and his poo shows up. Sigh.
 
...
. If it's so damn hard to "lock the diff", you'll never punch in the right combo in time!
....

This car *does not have* locking diff (aka LSD). Neither do any of the other cheaper AWD vehicles I'm aware of.

My 2000 Outback had it, and it would go thru double the stuff the CX-5, et al, can.
 
Oh, it's a good system, it's just reactive to slip and not proactive against slip on take-off. For it to truly be proactive, it would have to be engaged ALL of the time, and 2% is just to keep the slop out. But people like CX-500 need video proof and all that.

God, every single post has nonsense and incorrect statements.

The (as you suggest) "2%" isn't to keep slop out. It is a deliberate design decision to maximize MPG.

And, BTW, I've watched video proof of elephants appearing, as if by magic. That was more convincing that your youtube.
 
I remember seeing this video a while back where they compared the AWD capability of the CRV, Forester and CX-5 in snow.

In it he mentioned that the CX-5 was reactive and then at 6 mins they do the uphill stop/start and he says the rear is always on, no mention of % though.


I remember that video and seems to indicate that the CX-5 is not a dog in the snow.

But really, does anybody remember what the original question for this thread was? Another thread that has complete derailed.
 
Made 4 vids. First two are TCS on. Second two are TCS off. I did NOT have the wipers on, I did NOT do a brake stand. Just let off the brakes, and floored it. It's cold here, and the snow is very grippy.

Don't know why the vids are so dark, look fine on my calibrated monitor. Anyhow, the rear tires start visibly spinning 2-4 frames after the fronts. That's when *full* lockup on the rear diff occurs, and both axles are spinning at the same RPM. There's considerable power transmitted before that point.


https://youtu.be/H1-ZoDNmiTM

https://youtu.be/yz4W6Gv9Pc4

https://youtu.be/fDWjcPCl7aM

https://youtu.be/wq4xbf4huDw
 
probably not a good idea but just throwing out there....

Future 3rd party module that can be turned on and off that plugs in inline to alter rear power on driver demand....like Pedal Commander for the rear diff

Kindof like Toyota has done for years in the RAV4...
 
God, every single post has nonsense and incorrect statements.

The (as you suggest) "2%" isn't to keep slop out. It is a deliberate design decision to maximize MPG.

And, BTW, I've watched video proof of elephants appearing, as if by magic. That was more convincing that your youtube.

Because sending that 2% sure improves mileage by adding parasitic drag?
 
Made 4 vids. First two are TCS on. Second two are TCS off. I did NOT have the wipers on, I did NOT do a brake stand. Just let off the brakes, and floored it. It's cold here, and the snow is very grippy.

Don't know why the vids are so dark, look fine on my calibrated monitor. Anyhow, the rear tires start visibly spinning 2-4 frames after the fronts. That's when *full* lockup on the rear diff occurs, and both axles are spinning at the same RPM. There's considerable power transmitted before that point.


https://youtu.be/H1-ZoDNmiTM

https://youtu.be/yz4W6Gv9Pc4

https://youtu.be/fDWjcPCl7aM

https://youtu.be/wq4xbf4huDw

Good deal. Exactly what I said. REactive. Not PROactive. Thanks.
 
Using the brakes deactivates AWD, so that antilock can work its magic. That's why you got the front spinning before the rear.

Now, the question is, did unob know this before I pointed it out?

So...how do you take off from a stop without using the brakes just prior? Explain this...
 
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