Auxbeam F-16 Series LED Headlight Bulbs

[jlx21]

I can across these from some people I subscribe to on YouTube (https://www.auxbeam.com/Auxbeam-F-16-Series-LED-Conversion-Kit). Purchased the H11 for $53 on Amazon for my 2016.5 Sport model (non-tech obv), despite a lot of backlash from forum users on drop-in LED bulbs, and couldn't be more impressed.

Starting with the stock halogen, I upgraded to Silverstar Ultras (slightly more bright and whiter color). These new Auxbeam LEDs have the same distance of throw as halogen, very minimal bleeding and much brighter. While the road directly in front of the car is brightest, as expected, I would compare these bulbs to the stock LED headlights I had on my 2016 VW GTI. Now, it's not nearly as impressive as the xenon headlights on my 2014 Acura TL, but still very pleased with this product.

Anyone else have any experience with these bulbs? Bulbs feel solid and were half the price of the new Morimoto 2stroke LED bulbs. I can definitely post pictures as well if someone recommends a site I can link to.

 

[vroom]

These new Auxbeam LEDs have the same distance of throw as halogen, very minimal bleeding and much brighter. While the road directly in front of the car is brightest, as expected, I would compare these bulbs to the stock LED headlights I had on my 2016 VW GTI.

The statement in red is exactly the reason for the backlash you say you received. It is by far the worst quality a bulb can have, and negates any increase in brightness.

Most people don't realize that bleeding above the cut-off has very little to do with the bulb, and mostly with the projector design. You could put a lit match in there (I don't suggest you do!) and you would get a good cut-off. What makes a good bulb shine (pun intended) is not how little it bleeds, but how, or more accurately where, it projects its light.

A bulb that is compatible with the projector will concentrate most of its light up right next to the cut-off. This is what is called the hot-spot. It insures that most of the light is projected as far as possible into the distance. A bad bulb design will spread the light more equally between the cut-off and the ground right in front of the car. Having more light right in front of the car looks brighter, and is often mistaken as a quality. In fact it is not useful because when you are moving at 70 mph on the highway, knowing what is ten feet in front of your car makes no difference (you would have no time to react anyway). Worse, it is dangerous, since so much light right in front of you will significantly reduce your night vision and hamper your ability to see in the distance where it is most useful. So in retrospect: when judging the quality of a swap-in bulb, look for brightness and light pattern, not bleed.

Right now I don't see any LED being a good replacement in a projector designed for Halogens or HID, and for technical reasons, I don't see it happening any time soon either. You just can't make the LED chips small enough to emulate the filament of a halogen, or the arc of a HID without generating too much heat and seriously compromising the LED longevity.

If you want to convince me otherwise, post comparison pictures between the halogens and the LEDs of the light pattern on a wall (at least 15 feet away) like I did for HID here. I use imgur.com for posting pictures. I actually want these to be good, since I really love LED technology (color, lifespan, brightness, instant on, etc.). I'm not getting my hopes up though...

 

[tomcat1446]

I don't have experience specifically with Auxbeam F-16 Series, but have used these LED types in the past and will never buy them again. I found them to be unreliable, maybe yours might be better reliability.......

the weakest link is the tiny mechanical micro fan cooling the heatsink at the base, once the fan fails and it will,
the LED overheats and dies.

because of the failing fans, they came out with newer versions that don't use fans at all but copper straps to provide heatsinking
[video]https://www.amazon.com/Rolinger-5th-Generation-CREE-Headlight/dp/B012KF29ZG[/video]

honestly, I wouldn't put these things in the CX-5 housing, I learned the hard way on a previous car, if that thing overheats because of a failed fan you're looking at melting housing plastics that will emit cloudy white fumes and start clouding up your OEM projector lens from the inside and you'll end up having to replace the whole housing.

 

[calebian21]

I bought VLED's, not the Auxbeam ones, but I was seriously disappointed with them. I ended up just buying some DDM Tuning HID's and love them. Much, much better than the stock halogen or the LED's.

 

[blackcx5]

I bought VLED's, not the Auxbeam ones, but I was seriously disappointed with them. I ended up just buying some DDM Tuning HID's and love them. Much, much better than the stock halogen or the LED's.

Agreed, I still find HID's brighter than LED's except for those expensive multiple LED array (jewel LED) types on Acura's and Audi's. I wouldn't mess with those aftermarket LED's with tiny fans on the back, once those fans fail, the LED fails.

The LED's have great short throw output but the LED brightness for far distance throw is inferior to HID.

 

[calebian21]

Agreed, I still find HID's brighter than LED's except for those expensive multiple LED array (jewel LED) types on Acura's and Audi's. I wouldn't mess with those aftermarket LED's with tiny fans on the back, once those fans fail, the LED fails.

The LED's have great short throw output but the LED brightness for far distance throw is inferior to HID.

Exactly right. That and the LED's I have cause a terrible interference with the radio. I paid $60 for the upgraded DDM kit and they're awesome.

 

[jlx21]

OP here; returned my auxbeam LEDs after a week.

Performance was just okay, but after I read reviews about clouding up the headlight, and possibly causing a short to the electric system (is this even true?), I just decided to put my halogen bulbs back in. I also didn't like how the controller/driver was just dangling around.

I may end up trying the LASFIT LED bulbs later, or just wait a few years and hope the technology improves...